Just got Inon Strobe - need help w settings

[dlwalke]

Just got a D2000. I am new to uw photography and find the manual to be tough going - particularly as the English is rather poor. Anyhow, I guess the s-ttl mode is the easiest, but the external auto mode sounds pretty easy too. Just wondering if people have preferences (or Manual mode). One thing I don't like about the s-ttl mode is that I use my camera for more topside shots (where I often need flash) than uw shots and the replacement parts for the clear photo system (i.e., the shade that goes over the onboard flash) are pretty pricey for an item I would need to always be replacing. After you stick and unstick it a couple of times, it doesn't really stick so much anymore. Is there a fix or workaround for this? Could you not use the film but, rather, put some black tape or something on the outside of the housing rather than right over the internal flash (or would this screw up the fiber optic cable reading of flash output)? And I understand what the function of the dark film is, but what is the purpose of the clear film that goes immediately adjacent to the internal flash.

Also, I didn't even know I had a pre-flash on my C5060. Is it so close in time to the real flash that they are essentially indistinguishable? I'm not sure I'm seeing two.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[hvulin]

I also have D2000 but I don't use the sticker on the camera! You can just put something black on the diffuser on the case and then mount optical kit on top of it...

I use s-ttl on the flash and allways-on flash setting on my 7070...

 

[Zeeman]

I use full manual for my strobe and camera. Canon A640, shutter speed 1/125, f 5.0 (about) with the D2000 in manual mode - usually one of the bottom 3 power settings for macro, and a quick switch to Full for wide angle.

I usually take5 - 10 shots of coral to fine tune my adustments before shooting, and then just take heaps of pics of everything with a few different settings - just in case... The variations are usually small once I have it ready to go.



Z...

 

[Ryan]

I have those stickers stuck all over the place here, and can't recall ever throwing one away because it had lost its stick...

The clear film is an insulator. In theory, you could take enough shots to melt the ir film, which could stain your camera's flash. To put the ir mask together, lay the adhesive window sticky side up on a work surface, stick on the ir mask, then stick on the clear insulator, then stick the entire combo onto your camera.

When you aren't using the camera in the housing, just stick the film somewhere clean (like to the inside of the housing?) and it will be ready for use next time.

 

[herman]

I use a D180 on my 5050 which is about the same strobe. Instead of using the film inserts, I cut a thin piece of dark plastic in the shape of the diffuser on the housing and slide it under the thumb screw of the fiber holder. Works great and I have the added benefit of being able to remove it underwater if I want to use the internal flash. On some macro shots I like to use the internal flash in addition to the strobe.
I shoot in the s-ttl mode with the camera flash set to slave mode and the power level set to 1. It saves batteries and there is no need for a full flash (unless shooting macro with both internal flash and strobe).

It just occured to me that a section of exposed 35mm film would likely make a good source of dark, thin plastic.

 

[Ryan]

It just occured to me that a section of exposed 35mm film would likely make a good source of dark, thin plastic.

Exposed, processed slide film is actually a filter that allows only IR to pass. This is nearly identical to the Inon clear photo films, and often used by diy'ers.

 

[scubapatton]

Most Canon P&S seem to have a pre-flash. I had no idea mine did either until I started researching u/w photo stuff.. it fires so quick we don't notice it.. it sort of tells the flash how much flash to give when it fires...