Unfortunately, Cubans do seem to have changed from the first time I went 15 years ago till my last visit last fall. The first time, Cubans appeared to have nothing and yet were very happy, kind and generous with what little they had, spending time outside having fun with their families. They weren't trying to sell you anything, we certainly didn't see anyone begging or asking for money for anything at that time. It was possible to get authentic cigars at extremely discounted rates, but the more legitimate the source and quality, the harder they were to find. They were extremely scared of going to jail. So there was a very hidden black market, but nothing like today.
Now, not just in Havana, but all over Cuba, there are all kinds of people trying to make money any way they can. The black market is prevalent. There are various begging requests, often involving milk for their baby, with a picture of the child. There are buskers in the streets, people shooing you into their shop or restaurant, and many people that you interact with try to sell you cigars. In terms of the money making tactics, IMHO, it's a fraction of what you would see in a Cozumel market, but for Cuba it's a vast difference. We spent a lot of time talking with some Cubans as well as some people that spend a lot of time there. For some Cubans, they're seeing what the tourists have and they've had a taste of money and are trying to achieve that. Unfortunately for most, they are actually hungry and they say that their food/milk rations don't even provide enough milk for the children, and the tiny bun they get doesn't feed anyone. Their fridge is often almost empty, even with families. Prostitution is fairly widespread among young single mothers just to put enough food on the table, and their parents even know and it's apparently accepted as a necessity. I've heard the most heartbreaking stories. I hope that their life situation improves drastically sooner rather than later.
The socioeconomic situation aside, I had a fantastic experience with Avalon on the Tortuga in Jardines last September and the diving and abundant sea life was awesome. I hope that the Aggressor improves the experience for their guests soon.
