J-valve question

[whaylonsmithers]

Hi guys,

I've got a J-vavle that is bleeding air out of the J side of the valve. It looks like k-valves do when they bleed out of the handle - small slow bubbles. The tank is a 1975 USD 72cf steel. I assume the valve is orginal but don't know. Last hyro was 1985 so I think to safe to say its a pre-85 J-valve.

Q1. Is there a part I can get from somwhere so I can remove the J-part and bolt it up? I've already put an SPG on it so the J is a bit superflous.

Q2. I have previously fixed a K-valve that was bleeding air out of the handle by stipping it down and replacing some o-rings. Is it likely that a similar fix would work for this? I'm not an uber-tech but can follow simple instructions slowly.

Thanks all for any help. This forum is extremely informative and I appreciate your efforts in helping out the ignorant. Michael.

 

[Bob DBF]

Strip it down and replace the o-rings, I've rebuilt older valves than that. Watch the J-valve seat assembly, it can be put in backwards and the handle won't work right.



Bob
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You only need two tools in life – WD40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn’t move and should, use the WD40. If it shouldn’t move and does, use the Duct Tape

 

[simonbeans]

To rebuild your valve, follow this set of links:

www.vintagedoublehose.com then, manuals and catalogs; next, continue; then, US Divers manuals,testing, parts drawings, all years covered; finally, valve rebuilding, pdf.

Your valve is the same except that you have plastic knobs, etc.

Easy to follow instructions. Valves are really not too complicated.

 

[captain]

This is the manual you need for your valve. There were some slight changes made over the years to the internal parts so you will have to disassemble it to see. That valve is still still being made by Aqua Lung.

https://backup.filesanywhere.com/vwr/ELinkvwr.aspx?&FILEID=1248311&NAME=Aqua-Lung%20Valve%20manual%20late.pdf&PATH=%5CBLPEN163%5CUS%20Divers%20manuals%2Ctesting%2C%20parts%20drawings%2C%20all%20years%20covered%5CAqua-Lung%20Valve%20manual%20late.pdf

 

[superstar]

Nice rig, I got an extra seat if you need it.

 

[whaylonsmithers]

Thanks everyone. I didn't think it would take long to get an answer but I wasn't expecting it to be so comprehensive and so fast! +1 for VDH too. I asked Bryan about Aquarius 1st stage kits and he made one up and listed it on the website just for me. And when I ordered it I got next-day dispatch even though the website clearly says he is on holidays for a week.

Does anyone know if its possible to get the plug and O-ring (parts 29 and 30) and simply plug this up? I've got an SPG on it now so plugging it up is definitely my preferred option.

 

[Gilldiver]

It would be easier to just go down to your LDS and get an old K valve

 

[Luis H]

Thanks everyone. I didn't think it would take long to get an answer but I wasn't expecting it to be so comprehensive and so fast! +1 for VDH too. I asked Bryan about Aquarius 1st stage kits and he made one up and listed it on the website just for me. And when I ordered it I got next-day dispatch even though the website clearly says he is on holidays for a week.

Does anyone know if its possible to get the plug and O-ring (parts 29 and 30) and simply plug this up? I've got an SPG on it now so plugging it up is definitely my preferred option.View attachment 132007

That plug is for the K valve only. It does not work on the J valve body. Look at diagram a bit closer and you will see that the bodies are different.

 

[superstar]

My old j-valve also leaked and a good cleaning and new o-rings and a new seat #8 9 on the diagram made it work like new. If you just want a k-valve I'll trade you a Dacor K valve for your J-valve. I think the J-rod gives your rig some vintage bling.

 

[captain]

As a side note it's easier to carry a tank by a J valve than a K valve. That
s why I replace Ks with Js.