J-valve question

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AfterDark

AfterDark

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Is it doable and acceptable to remove the J-valve lever and safety wire the shaft in the open position?

I don't do any of my own work on scuba gear so I'm clewless about this. Spent 1/2 hour searching but couldn't find anything. Someone must have asked this before, or am I just that dumb? I don't want to try it and wind up walking in the LDS with a bag of parts in the AM.:dork2: Any help on this?
 
AfterDark:
Is it doable and acceptable to remove the J-valve lever and safety wire the shaft in the open position?
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FWIW: I was given a steel 65 about 12 years ago. It had a bad J-valve. Replaced it, safety wired the valve with .047 and have gone through three hydro's and 10+ VIP's since without any problem, either above or below the surface.

As far as being "clewless"; are you a sailor?
 
F106A:
FWIW: I was given a steel 65 about 12 years ago. It had a bad J-valve. Replaced it, safety wired the valve with .047 and have gone through three hydro's and 10+ VIP's since without any problem, either above or below the surface.

As far as being "clewless"; are you a sailor?
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Not really, but I do understand the origin of the phrase, and don't wish to appear clewless about that at least .:D Did you remove the lever or is that not wise?
 
If you don't want a J valve, swap it out with a K valve. If you want to keep the J but use it as a K, open the reserve and tape it in position with several wrappings of black electrical tape.
 
AfterDark:
Not really, but I do understand the origin of the phrase, and don't wish to appear clewless about that at least .:D Did you remove the lever or is that not wise?
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I removed the the lever from the original "bad" J-valve. I don't know if that is considered "wise" or not, but it was no longer needed. The replacement didn't have one. I suspect you may get a full measure of opinions on the subject from the gurus here at SB.


"Baby sister, I was born game and I intend to go out that way."
 
Whatever you do now, save the lever and at the next valve service have the shop remove the guts and then replace the lever. That way it still looks like a J-valve but will be open inside. Frankly, I think this is utter sacrilege, but your valve, do what you want. (If your J is a U.S.Divers, send me the guts if you don't want them:))
 
duckbill:
Whatever you do now, save the lever and at the next valve service have the shop remove the guts and then replace the lever. That way it still looks like a J-valve but will be open inside. Frankly, I think this is utter sacrilege, but your valve, do what you want. (If your J is a U.S.Divers, send me the guts if you don't want them:))
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Thanks sounds like the best option. One is a USD I'll PM you after I have it done. I'm not so much a vintage diver as I am old enough to have some vintage gear that I like and will continue to use for as long as it lasts.
 
I don't know why anyone is concerned about J valves other than because of a lack of knowledge on how they work.

All my tanks have them but I rarely use them, I just leave the lever down and never had an problem doing that.
First unless you are diving doubles with a J manifold I is easy to tell what position the J valve is in by watching your SPG. It will have a much larger pressure swing during inhalation than when it is up than when it is down. Also there usually is a difference in sound during inhalation between when it is on then when it is off.

At the worst all it could do is cut your dive a few minutes short but even that is unlikely to happen if you normally end the dive at or above the J valve kick in pressure of 300 PSI. Be assured one will not abruptly cut off your air supply at anytime.

I would be more concerned about shop monkeys not knowing the lever must be down in order to fill the tank.
 
Personally, I prefer J valves. But that's just me.
 
I've only had J-valves. I'm familiar as to their function although not how it's done mechanically. I didn't even get confused by my Scubapro adjustable J-valve.:D

As you say monkeys not knowing to position it down when filling. If it is disabled then the monkey factor is no more and its one less thing I need to keep track of while gearing up. I didn't know if removing the lever would have any adverse effects on the valve operation by letting grit or sand in for instance. Sounds to me like I've got a few options. Thanks for the input I usually find your posts enlightening and enjoyable. I like J-valves because the T configuration makes for a dandy carry handle.
 
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