Trip Report Isla Providencia - Paradise of the Caribbean

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BoundForElsewhere

Snarkmeister
ScubaBoard Supporter
Divemaster
Messages
4,173
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5,145
Location
NYC
# of dives
200 - 499
I will preface this by simply stating that Providencia is not for everyone. If you want a fancy hotel with concierge service, all inclusive treatment, and air conditioning, you are better off at San Andres or Isla Rosario outside Cartegena. While Providencia is most definitely paradise of the highest caliber, you have to accept the fact that paradise takes work.

Getting to IP is no small task. We flew to Bogota on Friday, stayed overnight, then flew to San Andres and then on to Providencia. Two hours from Bogota to San Andres, 25 minutes from SA to Isla Providencia. Thank god that last flight is short because there is no air-conditioning on the airplane. Satena has larger planes that sit about 30 people while San Germain only fits around 12. Flight cost from Bogota to San Andres is roughly $160 and is about the same from SA to Providencia.

Getting around Providencia is a little challenging. Rental of a moto is around $20 per day while golf carts are $50. Some places have newer vehicles but most are on the “worn in” style. The only road that circumnavigates the island is in pretty good shape but riddles with speed bumps, cracks, and some dystopian pot holes so take your time and be careful if you decide to get yourself around the island on your own. Taxis are around but can take up to 2-hours to pick you up. No, it’s not the traffic. We just ended up walking to most places as there really isn’t a whole heck of a lot to do other than go to the beach and dive.

We stayed at a lovely home stay called Hi Hill House with the owners Claudia, Currumba, and their three awesome dogs. It was a short walk to Southwest Bay (best beach on the island, in my opinion (Freshwater was decimated by the hurricane) and Pash Bay which is a tiny little secluded beach with some cool volcanic caves you can swim into.

Restaurants offer basic food as everything besides fish has to be shipped to the island from Nicaragua or Costa Rica. Seems like the fish is mostly deep fried until it turns into jerky but if you luck out and someone has barracuda that gets grilled for some reason. Divino Nino is right on the beach at Southwest and is decent but pricey. Pizzeria Jesus has great crab pizza and is located in the little hamlet of Freshwater next to the mercado. Markets on the island are rudimentary and you are more likely to get cookies than staples like rice and milk. Eggs are fresh, though. So fresh they sometimes come with butt feathers.

The geology of the island is stunning and looks like the South Pacific. Lush, pointy mountains make up the core of the island with only the shoreline occupied by homes and the scant posada accommodations for tourists. You’ll see a few houses up in the hills but those are scant and hardly accessible. I won’t go into too much detail here but here isla providencia - Google Suche and here are some pretty good representations of the island landscape. The video was shot by one of the other divers on the boat and shows not only the island and diving but also the kind of weekly horse race on Southwest Bay.



We did our dives and snorkeling with a wonderful family business, Anda di Wata. Sandra and Halbert are absolutely fantastic people and know the reefs and surrounding waters as intimately as anyone on the island. While Sandra is from Switzerland, Halbert was born and raised on the island. I cannot say enough good things about them as people and as a dive shop. Their rental gear is all new (they set up shop one week before Covid hit and then the hurricane hit…) and very well maintained. They offer full concierge if you bring your own and set everything up on tanks before getting on the boat. The boat is a single engine (Yamaha 150 hp) 28-footer and is set up for a max of 8 divers plus crew. Time to dive sites is usually less than 10 minutes. Their crew consists of Kelly, the boat captain, and Kwaser and Connie as divemasters. I loved all of them. After two weeks of diving, I felt like part of the family. It’s that kind of place. Sandra and Halbert have arranged with a restaurant right down the street to provide fresh fruit juices gratis after the morning dives. The absolute best way to finish a couple of beautiful dives (ok, maybe not as good as a beer but mos def damn close).

The diving was enjoyable with plentiful reef sharks and the shallow reefs were abundant with fish and fry. There are many deep wall dives along with the beautiful reefs that will satisfy all you “push the limit” junkies. There is typically little to no current on the sites and entry / exits are easy. As I mentioned earlier, the dive sites are all within walking distance of the deportation point. Entry onto the boat is from the beach. The water was calm as glass while I was there and the barrier reef way off the coast does a good job of keeping the seas generally calm.

All in all this has become one of my favorite places on earth to visit and dive. If you can handle the modicum of roughing it and the fact that you can’t flush toilet paper I highly recommend visiting this little jewel of the Caribbean. Isla Providencia will not disappoint.
 
Glad you had a good time. This is a destination I'm not familiar with, and I doubt many people here are. I'd like to get some follow up thoughts:

1.) Sounds like this is very far south, below the Caribbean, but not to the equator, so I imagine it's got pretty hot tropical temp.s year round, and you mentioned no air conditioning. Is that just the plane ride and home stay you used? You mentioned San Andres or Isla Rosario outside Cartegena, but how far away is that? Since air conditioning in the tropics is pretty much expected for many Americans, and you're U.S. based, what led you go to opt for the place you did?

2.) You noted there's not much to do besides go to the beach and dive, so how many dives per day were available?

3.) Any idea how your total trip cost, airfare, food, etc..., would've compared to, oh, say, a trip to Cozumel, Roatan, Belize, etc...?

4.) The topside sounds scenic, but so do St. Lucia, Dominica and Saba. The diving sounds nice, but I can say that about many other places, including much more mainstream places (that have air conditioning). Which leads to the big question:

What are the major selling points of this dive destination for dives based out of North America, compared to other options that are much better known, have air conditioning, and in some cases (e.g.: Cozumel) restaurant food and groceries that sound a good deal better than what you describe?
 
Glad you had a good time. This is a destination I'm not familiar with, and I doubt many people here are. I'd like to get some follow up thoughts:

1.) Sounds like this is very far south, below the Caribbean, but not to the equator, so I imagine it's got pretty hot tropical temp.s year round, and you mentioned no air conditioning. Is that just the plane ride and home stay you used? You mentioned San Andres or Isla Rosario outside Cartegena, but how far away is that? Since air conditioning in the tropics is pretty much expected for many Americans, and you're U.S. based, what led you go to opt for the place you did?

2.) You noted there's not much to do besides go to the beach and dive, so how many dives per day were available?

3.) Any idea how your total trip cost, airfare, food, etc..., would've compared to, oh, say, a trip to Cozumel, Roatan, Belize, etc...?

4.) The topside sounds scenic, but so do St. Lucia, Dominica and Saba. The diving sounds nice, but I can say that about many other places, including much more mainstream places (that have air conditioning). Which leads to the big question:

What are the major selling points of this dive destination for dives based out of North America, compared to other options that are much better known, have air conditioning, and in some cases (e.g.: Cozumel) restaurant food and groceries that sound a good deal better than what you describe?
I feel like my report just got reviewd by my 6th grade teacher.

All good questions and thank you, though. I'll update the info as soon as I'm at a computer.
 
Thanks for the report and I echo @drrich2 excellent questions. I've never heard of Isla Providencia so I looked it up on Wiki and apparently the island was largely devastated by a hurricane in 2020, have they been able to do much rebuilding? And were the reefs and natural habitats significantly damaged by the storm?
 
I ask because one of the reasons people come to ScubaBoard is to research, compare and contrast various dive destination options. Some, like Cozumel, Roatan, Belize, Roatan, Bonaire, Curacao and the Cayman Islands get a lot of reviews. They there are the 'roads less traveled' - St. Croix, St. Lucia, Puerto Rico, Dominica and Saba. And then there are the ones I rarely hear about - Carriacou, St. Vincent, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, Grenada, Little Corn Island, etc...

Sometimes it's the trip reports on that last group that mean more, because there are so few and it's hard to find good detailed info. I'm glad to see this trip report for Isla Providencia. Somebody looking for an off-the-beaten-path, diamond in the rough' or 'not too touristy' destination might take an interest.

Thing is, people need to know the pro.s and con.s of how these destinations compare against each other. Cozumel vs. Roatan, Bonaire vs. Curacao, etc... It becomes an 'apples to oranges' comparison, but if you can only afford one piece of fruit this year...
 
Glad you had a good time. This is a destination I'm not familiar with, and I doubt many people here are. I'd like to get some follow up thoughts:

1.) Sounds like this is very far south, below the Caribbean, but not to the equator, so I imagine it's got pretty hot tropical temp.s year round, and you mentioned no air conditioning. Is that just the plane ride and home stay you used? You mentioned San Andres or Isla Rosario outside Cartegena, but how far away is that? Since air conditioning in the tropics is pretty much expected for many Americans, and you're U.S. based, what led you go to opt for the place you did?

2.) You noted there's not much to do besides go to the beach and dive, so how many dives per day were available?

3.) Any idea how your total trip cost, airfare, food, etc..., would've compared to, oh, say, a trip to Cozumel, Roatan, Belize, etc...?

4.) The topside sounds scenic, but so do St. Lucia, Dominica and Saba. The diving sounds nice, but I can say that about many other places, including much more mainstream places (that have air conditioning). Which leads to the big question:

What are the major selling points of this dive destination for dives based out of North America, compared to other options that are much better known, have air conditioning, and in some cases (e.g.: Cozumel) restaurant food and groceries that sound a good deal better than what you describe?
ok.. here goes...

1. Yes, it is hot but ceiling and floor fans keep the air moving at night against mosquitos and the heat. Mosquito nets are ok but block the air flow and you suffocate. I know this from using them in the Amazon a few years ago. San Andres is also 2 hours from Cartegena while Isla Rosario is about 45 minutes. Both locations are way more built up than Providencia but without the gorgeous mountains and raw feel. My family and I prefer the more "rustic" locations as it offers us more opportunity to get to know people and say good morning to the neighbors. Of course, with the size of Providencia, basically everyone is your neighbor. To me, smiles are far more valuable than comforts.

2. We did two morning dives and that seems to be the standard. Night dives are also available. I imagine as more tourists show up and gas prices decrease operations will start doing afternoon dives, as well. As most of the sites are within 10 to 15 minutes from shore, you can fit in a lot of dives if you want.

3. Never been to Roatan or Belize but airfare was about 3X the cost to Coz from NYC. Room and board was comparable but Coz does have more options with the AI's and whatnot. We always rent a house on Coz away from Centro so we don't pay much ($40 for a 3-bedroom with yard).

4. I guess the major selling point to me was the opportunity to develop relationships and visit an island that is not overwhelmed by tourism and foreign investments. As the boat captain pointed out, Providencia is stuck in the 1940's. This is true from both the negative side (infrastructure, cell / wifi service, availability of amenities) but also from the positive (smiles and greetings every morning from locals, uncrowded beaches, and some great areas of solitude).

Admittedly, along with the above comes the bragging rights to say I have been somewhere unvisited by most people. The road less traveled and all that.
 
Thanks for the follow up info. While as you said in your original post "...Providencia is not for everyone," I see occasional posters on ScubaBoard who seem to prefer the 'road less traveled' destinations, and speak of how some Caribbean destination used to be decades ago.

You brought up some memories. Many years ago on a cruise stop I visited Cartagena (where a guide drove us around, including past an old headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition; talk about some history!) and did an excursion to a public aquarium (well, outdoor chainlink fence pens with some other enclosures) at the Rosario Islands.
 
Personally, and completely unqualified, I think it is one of the most beautiful and true places I have ever been.

Providencia reminds me of the Velveteen Rabbit quote, "When a child loves you for a long, long time, not just to play with, but REALLY loves you, then you become Real." You can tell the people of Providencia truly love the island and have fought hard to bring it back from the hurricane. For this alone, the experience was mos def, "real".

Paradise takes work.
 
Tell us about the food available
 
Tell us about the food available
deep fried and grilled fish. Fresh crab. rice. plantains. wilty salad. lots and lots of delicious fresh fruit. beer. rum. galletos.

The meat is a little sketchy since you really don't know when or how it died. Stick to the fish. Don't go to a restaurant hungry. You're going to wait. They have not cut loose the Caribbean clock.

The pizza at Jesus Pizzeria is surprising good. And this is coming from a New Yorker and we all know we have the best pizza, period.
 
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