Isla Holbox Trip Report

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Jupiter31

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Location
Coconut Grove (Miami) FL
I just returned from Isla HolBox (pronounced “Hol -bosch) to swim with the whale sharks and had an experience that was fantastic; almost indescrible – with the exception of places in Africa, Asia, Australia there is no location with a better chance of seeing these animals. While the experience has its complications and nuances, it’s much easier than a 24 hour flight to Tanzania, for example.

This is how I did it; there are certainly other ways and I’d recommend you check the search function on Scubaboard, as well as the web site for Fantasea Divers who I made the trip with, and also Google – you will have a ton of info this way.

I contacted my regular dive operator on Cozumel, Blue Angel, and they said they were not running these trips anymore but put me in touch with Jason, who owns Fantasea (he also posts on this board under Playa Country Boy. We agreed he would pick me up at the airport Thursday afternoon, drive to the ferry, stay over in a beach hotel, and dive (snorkel actually) with the sharks in the morning, and then drop me at the ferry in Playa so I could get to Cozumel. Price for all but without drinks and food was $450.00. Pricy, but I’ve wanted to do this for 10 years. Jason is a great guy and I would urge you to check his web sites and contact him about Holbox and also diving in Playa del Carmen – he has very extensive worldwide diving experience, especially in Thailand and other parts of Asia.

The trip from the airport takes +/- 3 hours; the road is good in some places and bad in others – its VERY POORLY MARKED AND I WOULD NOT EVEN CONSIDER DOING IT AT NIGHT (though tour operators do for those that do not want to stay over; you are picked up at 3 or 4AM and taken to Holbox by van).

The ferry leaves from a really run down town – I forgot the name – at regular intervals; cost is $4.00 each way – we had a boat meet us – 30 – 31’ same as I would be on to see the sharks in the morning. Trip takes about 15 – 20 min’s.

The island is unique; it’s in the Gulf of Mexico, not the Caribbean, however the water is pretty and the beaches hard packed white sand. All of the roads are packed sand and most of the transportation – even the “Taxi’s” are golf carts. There are numerous bars and restaurants – the pizza place off the square is pretty good.

We checked into our hotel; Hotel Esmeralda, located on the beach – large rooms, no TV, radio, bed fine. We had dinner, drinks and spoke with a Mexican family from Mexico City there on vacation – you really get the feeling you are in Mexico in Holbox; many are there from other parts of the country, just relaxing vs. places like Cancun and Cozumel that seem like parts of the USA.

It’s also interesting to note you are likely to be the only SCUBA diver on the boat – many are there for the relaxation and beaches and did not specifically come for the sharks. There is no SCUBA diving either.

I got to the boat at 7:45AM – There was a couple from Mexico City getting their PhD’s at Harvard, another Mexican couple on their honeymoon, and a professional couple form Milan Italy on the tail end of a 25 day trip through Mexico and Central America.

We left at 8AM from the main dock - the boats are all similar; panga type 30’ or so, twin outboard.

The drill is as follows:

Takes an hour or so to get to the sharks – they come to this area to feed on the plankton every year from June – September, although I was told that to be sure, July and August are more certain to spot them – I’m passing this along but was also told they were likely gone the end of August – who knows; get there mid July – mid August to be sure.

Once they spot a shark – you can tell by the tail sticking out of the water – its 1 boat to a shark; 2 snorklers and a guide in the water. The water I found to be chilly (I don’t know; 78 but that’s a guess); you need a wet suit; shorties and gear were supplied – I had my full 3mil suit and was glad I did.

You are in the shallow water of the gulf; 25 – 30 feet deep with viz 5’ to the 30’ I experienced. You slip over the side, and with luck you will see the shark coming towards you with its mouth open feeding – you are not prepared for the size of these animals – 30’ is not uncommon. I was able to get in the water 6 times to swim; I can’t describe it but the shark looked like the one in the “Jaws” attraction at Universal, but these were real – they move slowly and tend to stay towards the surface.

No SCUBA and no flash photography – snorkeling is the best way to see them as the boat picks you up and positions you.

This was one of the most memorable experiences of my life and I feel special having seen them in their natural state. I wondered if those on the boat realized just how special the experience was. While not simple and not especially cheap, this is the easiest and best way to see these sharks. If you have the opportunity – make the trip.
 
Hola Rob! Great trip report! I had a great time hanging out with you! Hope you had a some great dives in Cozumel. I'm sorry I didnt make it back over to the island, I have been busy like crazy this August. But let me know the next time you're coming back ddown and I will try to meet you over in Cozumel for a couple dives! :D
 

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