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Arbu -- yes, the ANAM cabins at the ranger station are still closed indefinitely. The dive ops are using a hostel at Bahia Honda, on the mainland, to house multiday divers. I have not read one favorable review about the place. Most complain about mold throughout, including pillows and sheets. The alternative to staying at Bahia Honda would be to stay in Santa Catalina and do day-trips.
It's also not true that Coiba is uninhabited. There are rangers living at the ANAM ranger station and a few ex-convicts were allowed to remain permanently on the island when the prison was closed.
Beyond that, Scuba Coiba did a pretty fair job of getting us to and from the dive sites. The dives were great. The food they cooked for us was excellent. Herbie, the owner, is one of the most responsive, helpful people I've dealt with in any dive shop in Panama. As I mentioned above, there were issues with a DM, who is no longer working with Scuba Coiba, and with a couple of pieces of their rental equipment.
Thanks. I've got a one week trip to the Darien planned in a few weeks and I would take the opportunity to do some diving while in Panama. But I've done over 200 dives around the world, and am just not that sure that I'm going to find anything that inspiring to do. Coiba is quite a way from Panama City too.
You're right, Coiba is a good seven hour drive from the city. The closest diving from Panama City is Portobelo, 90 minutes away on the Caribbean side. Diving there used to be very good. Lionfish, warming water and run-off from nearby construction have done a number on the shallow reefs. Viz is not that great ... maybe 40 to 50 feet at best. If you decide to go, avoid Panama Divers and Scubapanama. Go with Golden Frog.
I don't want to hijack this thread to an unrelated topic, but I'd love to hear about your trip to the Darien. Who are you going with? I have friends in Panama who have crossed the Darien to the Caribbean.
You're right, Coiba is a good seven hour drive from the city. The closest diving from Panama City is Portobelo, 90 minutes away on the Caribbean side. Diving there used to be very good. Lionfish, warming water and run-off from nearby construction have done a number on the shallow reefs. Viz is not that great ... maybe 40 to 50 feet at best. If you decide to go, avoid Panama Divers and Scubapanama. Go with Golden Frog...