Is the AT 20 suitable for UK winter diving

[SOUTH DEVON]

I have just purchased my first regulator which came with ATX40, but I didn't realise that the octopus supplied was an inferior AT20, my concern is , "is the AT 20 suitable for diving UK waters during winter as it does not have a heat exchanger ?"
I asked the shop and they said it would be fine but I would like a second opinion, as it is my understanding that the AT 20 is not meant for cold water, and it seems a bit pointless having a backup if it's up to the job!
Thanks for any replies/Steve

 

[LUBOLD8431]

The AT-20 second stage should be fine. The heat exchanger helps, its not the absolute solution for cold water...

The AT-20 first stage is NOT designated for cold water use, it does not meet the european standards for below 50 degrees F.

If you got the ATX-40 with a DS4 or DST, and then the AT-20 as just an octo, I think you are OK...

If you are really concerned about it, you can order the metal heat exchanger from any Apeks dealer, and they can put it on for you, or you can do it yourself... Not that hard.

 

[loosebits]

If you got the ATX-40 with a DS4 or DST, and then the AT-20 as just an octo, I think you are OK...

Why is the AT20 okay as an octo? The chances of it freezing up should be higher if two people are breathing off the 1st stage - the air supplying the AT20 will be cooler as the 1st stage will be running cooler (more air going from tank pressure to IP).

Keep in mind, even if you aren't donating the long hose, an OOA parasite may just go for the reg in your mouth leaving you with the cheaper octo.

 

[LUBOLD8431]

Because the first stage is more prone to freezing than the second stage.

Thats why the AT-20 would be good as an octo...

I didnt say anything about when you are sharing air...

But again, in that situation, you should be more concerned about the FIRST STAGE, not the second stage freezing...

 

[joele]

i tend to believe lubold...
you should be more concerned with the first stage than the second...
if you notice, you don't usually see second stages with "environmental seals"...

 

[rescuediver009]

joele once bubbled...
i tend to believe lubold...
you should be more concerned with the first stage than the second...
if you notice, you don't usually see second stages with "environmental seals"...

Duhh, of course you never hear it because every regulator second stage is 'sealed'. the mouthpiece is in your mouth and the exhaust valve is sealed unless you are exhaling and thus no contaminants can enter.
However, that's not the point.
My advice would be that if you can find a way to get rid of the AT20 and get an ATX50 or ATX40 second stage only. This way you are not modifying anything and you have two high performance second stages for those chilly waters. i dive them too, and i know what kind of tole the temperature can take on your regs. and what is all this gibberish about not having enough air flow?? Last time i checked, air flow is regulated by the first stage not what type of octo you have...

 

[LUBOLD8431]

rescuediver009 once bubbled...


Last time i checked, air flow is regulated by the first stage not what type of octo you have...

Oh ya think so, huh???

Ever breath off an Oceanic Low Profile octo???

You might think twice about that statement...

 

[LUBOLD8431]

rescuediver009 once bubbled...


My advice would be that if you can find a way to get rid of the AT20 and get an ATX50 or ATX40 second stage only. This way you are not modifying anything and you have two high performance second stages for those chilly waters.

Ok, let me say this one more time real slow, so everyone can understand...

I am an APeks service technician. THe ONLY difference between the AT-20 second stage, and the ATX-40 second stage is the METAL heat exchanger instead of a plastic nut (and the little sticker). This is like a $10 part. He already HAS the at-20 second stage. He doesnt need to dump it, if he is really that concerned, he can MAKE his at-20 into an ATX-40 without having to get rid of his existing second stage.

 

[rescuediver009]

LUBOLD8431 once bubbled...


Ok, let me say this one more time real slow, so everyone can understand...

I am an APeks service technician. THe ONLY difference between the AT-20 second stage, and the ATX-40 second stage is the METAL heat exchanger instead of a plastic nut (and the little sticker). This is like a $10 part. He already HAS the at-20 second stage. He doesnt need to dump it, if he is really that concerned, he can MAKE his at-20 into an ATX-40 without having to get rid of his existing second stage.

Well gee! i guess between you and the sherwood service tech you know everything there is to know... Maybe the sticker is a $10 part because there is a $100 dollar difference between the two second stages. i have used, sold and examined both.

just for you, the only reason I suggested getting rid of the AT20 for the very cold waters of britain, is because it is more expensive to built something by building the individual parts instead of buying the upgraded version first. this way the buyer doesn't need to upgrade his AT20.

 

[LUBOLD8431]

rescuediver009 once bubbled...

it is more expensive to built something by building the individual parts instead of buying the upgraded version first. this way the buyer doesn't need to upgrade his AT20.

Ok, go back, read his original post, then tell me what is more expensive...

Hint:

He already owns the AT-20...

So, instead of having to BUY an ATX-40, he can make an ATX-40 from his AT-20. And, guess what, it is cheaper.

I just looked up the price for the heat exchanger, ok its more than $10... but it isnt $100...

How about $75 retail. Which means most shops would sell it for around $60.

Actually, you know what, SOUTH DEVON, if you want to PM me your address, I will send you the heat exchanger at no charge...
Just pay for the shipping...



BTW, the little ATX-40 decal is $6.