Inon Wal 100

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Footslogger

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Question for those who have experience with the INON 100 Wide Angle Lens ...especially if you shoot with an Oly 5050.

Am very comfortable with my 5050 and Ikelite housing but will be taking my new INON WAL with me in May for the first time.

What adjustments, if any, to you make in settings when using the lens at short focal distances.


Thanks in advance ...
 
Just trying to keep the thread alive long enough to get some feedback.

Anyone out there who has used the INON WAL ? What should I expect in terms of required exposure variations ?

Thanks in advance.
 
I have an Inon WAL for my 5050. Since you are shooting thru more glass it will be a bit darker so you're going to have to make the necessary adjustments (f stop or shutter speed) to get your picture....can't say it in numbers as it varies depending on available light and if you are shooting with MWB. Do you have a strobe?
 
Never used the Inon 100, but for W/A in general, you may need a slightly increased aperture or slower shutter speed.

The big thing to check for is vignetting in the corners. Many of these accessory lenses will crop out the corners of your image. The solution is to slightly zoom your lens or be prepared to crop the end result. Just be sure to check a test image or two, then have fun.
 
justleesa:
Do you have a strobe?

=============================

Yes ...the Ikelite DS-125

So, one stop oughta do it then eh ??

Good to know. I realize that it's possible to view your shots under water and adjust but was hoping to gain from others experience with the same set up.

Thanks ...
 
You probably won't be shooting your WAL at the smallest f stops as you would do for macro, so that's a bit different. I usually shot f8 for macro and started around f5.6 for WAL with this set up.

You'll use your shutter speed more (for macro usually you set it for whatever and leave it alone) as you will want to control your water colour. The higher your speed the darker your water should be.

Your strobe will provide your light for your main subject and your shutter is the easiest way to control the background. With macro, many times, your strobe provided the light for the whole image, so this is a little different.

Otherwise, shooting WA for exposure is pretty much the same - use your historgram and your eye and adjust as necessary.

You'll be putting your strobe in a different position, too. Putting it out wider will help reduce backscatter.

HTH
 
alcina:
You probably won't be shooting your WAL at the smallest f stops as you would do for macro, so that's a bit different. I usually shot f8 for macro and started around f5.6 for WAL with this set up.

You'll use your shutter speed more (for macro usually you set it for whatever and leave it alone) as you will want to control your water colour. The higher your speed the darker your water should be.

Your strobe will provide your light for your main subject and your shutter is the easiest way to control the background. With macro, many times, your strobe provided the light for the whole image, so this is a little different.

Otherwise, shooting WA for exposure is pretty much the same - use your historgram and your eye and adjust as necessary.

You'll be putting your strobe in a different position, too. Putting it out wider will help reduce backscatter.

HTH
==============================================

Hey ...that really helps. Thanks !!

I expect that I will be using the WAL lens most for relatively larger objects that I want to get closer to rather than small stuff shot with macro. For macro I've been really happy to date with the super macro and the stock lens on the 5050.

Thanks again for the pointers ...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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