DepthCharge
Contributor
I like my 19 cft Fabers. Nice and light and I get (on the average) about 6 hrs bottom time/fill
Later,
John
Later,
John
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I'm going to go with the Faber FX100. (This thread swayed me to the Faber over the Worthy due to height and buoyancy) I am comfortable with the ditchable lead this leaves me.
Im a big fan of mine (two singles and two more doubled). They still look quite good after a few hundred dives. I'd never trade them for any other hp100. I also have some Faber lp85 doubles living here for a bit which are great tanks.
Going with a painted finish for saltwater diving? It's your money, but it seems silly to me. A faber will eventually chip and or crack and then start to rust. The hot dipped galvinized finish on the Worthingtons (or old PSTs) will never require attention.
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And I'd say the same about my 6 Worthington HP100s ... 2 sets of doubles and 2 singles.
Both are great tanks certainly, but the finish is my concern with the Fabers. I will never go with a painted finish on a tank, period. They WILL eventually chip, crack and start to rust. That simply doesn't happen with a HDG (hot dip galvinized) finish. If you're going to own a tank for a good bit of time, which you'd expect to be the case if you're buying steel, you really need to consider the finish.
Just my 2 cents. Sounds like the OPs decided on the Fabers though. Certainly a fine decision, just wanted to make sure you've at least given thought to the finish and made an informed decision.
From what I have read there is no doubt that the Worthington tanks have a superior finish. Faber's website even has a five paragraph page dedicated to defending their inferior coating process. I am only going with Faber for the two aforementioned reasons and I'm willing to accept the sub par finish in exchange.
I was going to say Faber LP 85 until someone mentioned stage/deco bottles, but I guess if you only have one tank you won't be doing deco.
Going with a painted finish for saltwater diving? It's your money, but it seems silly to me. A faber will eventually chip and or crack and then start to rust. The hot dipped galvinized finish on the Worthingtons (or old PSTs) will never require attention.
forgive me if this is a dumb question, but would the hot dipped galvanized finish vs. the painted finish account for the difference in weight between the worthington and faber?
Can the galvanized finish be fancied up with paint or anything? I just bought my new-used tanks and their just so "homely".I guess that could be part of it, but given the fact that the two tanks have different buoyancy characteristics (Worthington -2.5/-10 and Faber -0.59/-8.41), I would guess it more has to do with slightly different shapes. They both hold 100 cf at 3442 psi, but they are not identical tanks apart from the finish.
Faber steel LP85! Overfilled to 3500 gives you 112cf in a really handy size! Plus the awesome buoyancy characteristics of a steel tank!
I thought the LP was only supposed to be filled 10% over 2400? Well, Shoot, I can't even get our dive shop to fill my husband's LP past 2400, despit the "+"rating. They also won't fill my HPs past 3,000.
Then again, the SDI instructor who was filling them yesterday was telling me a story about how she didn't realize how much her air consumption would change from gaining 30 pounds and that she ran out of air on her 80 foot dive in Bonaire. And, how she panicked when an Eagle ray swam past her. Instructor?
I tried to explain tank markings to her but after those stories, I sort of figured it was hopeless. She really couldn't figure out what any of the numbers were.
I had to show her where the current hydro was.