If you could only have one tank, what would it be?

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I like my 19 cft Fabers. Nice and light and I get (on the average) about 6 hrs bottom time/fill
Later,
John
 
I was going to say Faber LP 85 until someone mentioned stage/deco bottles, but I guess if you only have one tank you won't be doing deco. The funny thing is that I don't own a Faber LP85 anymore. I have LP95s and lp 65s - lp65s are just about perfect for teaching, quarry diving and general fun stuff - they are almost like not having on a tank at all and are sweet little doubles for dives on which most of you guys use a big single and LP 95s for everything else that requires a bit more gas. It does matter that I am only 5'5" - short tanks preferred:). But still, if I could only have one tank to use for all diving I think LP85 would be the way to go.
 
I'm going to go with the Faber FX100. (This thread swayed me to the Faber over the Worthy due to height and buoyancy) I am comfortable with the ditchable lead this leaves me.

Going with a painted finish for saltwater diving? It's your money, but it seems silly to me. A faber will eventually chip and or crack and then start to rust. The hot dipped galvinized finish on the Worthingtons (or old PSTs) will never require attention.

---------- Post Merged at 06:53 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 06:49 AM ----------

Im a big fan of mine (two singles and two more doubled). They still look quite good after a few hundred dives. I'd never trade them for any other hp100. I also have some Faber lp85 doubles living here for a bit which are great tanks.

And I'd say the same about my 6 Worthington HP100s ... 2 sets of doubles and 2 singles.

Both are great tanks certainly, but the finish is my concern with the Fabers. I will never go with a painted finish on a tank, period. They WILL eventually chip, crack and start to rust. That simply doesn't happen with a HDG (hot dip galvinized) finish. If you're going to own a tank for a good bit of time, which you'd expect to be the case if you're buying steel, you really need to consider the finish.

Just my 2 cents. Sounds like the OPs decided on the Fabers though. Certainly a fine decision, just wanted to make sure you've at least given thought to the finish and made an informed decision.
 
Going with a painted finish for saltwater diving? It's your money, but it seems silly to me. A faber will eventually chip and or crack and then start to rust. The hot dipped galvinized finish on the Worthingtons (or old PSTs) will never require attention.

---------- Post Merged at 06:53 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 06:49 AM ----------



And I'd say the same about my 6 Worthington HP100s ... 2 sets of doubles and 2 singles.

Both are great tanks certainly, but the finish is my concern with the Fabers. I will never go with a painted finish on a tank, period. They WILL eventually chip, crack and start to rust. That simply doesn't happen with a HDG (hot dip galvinized) finish. If you're going to own a tank for a good bit of time, which you'd expect to be the case if you're buying steel, you really need to consider the finish.

Just my 2 cents. Sounds like the OPs decided on the Fabers though. Certainly a fine decision, just wanted to make sure you've at least given thought to the finish and made an informed decision.

From what I have read there is no doubt that the Worthington tanks have a superior finish. Faber's website even has a five paragraph page dedicated to defending their inferior coating process. I am only going with Faber for the two aforementioned reasons and I'm willing to accept the sub par finish in exchange.
 
From what I have read there is no doubt that the Worthington tanks have a superior finish. Faber's website even has a five paragraph page dedicated to defending their inferior coating process. I am only going with Faber for the two aforementioned reasons and I'm willing to accept the sub par finish in exchange.

Cool. Just wanted to make sure it was an informed decision. Personally, I find the height and buoyancy characteristics of the Worthington HP100s darn near perfect, but that's just me. YMMV. Enjoy whichever tank you go with!
 
I was going to say Faber LP 85 until someone mentioned stage/deco bottles, but I guess if you only have one tank you won't be doing deco.


The question was one tank size, not one tank. You can own multiple of that same tank is how I read the question.
 
Going with a painted finish for saltwater diving? It's your money, but it seems silly to me. A faber will eventually chip and or crack and then start to rust. The hot dipped galvinized finish on the Worthingtons (or old PSTs) will never require attention.


forgive me if this is a dumb question, but would the hot dipped galvanized finish vs. the painted finish account for the difference in weight between the worthington and faber?
 
forgive me if this is a dumb question, but would the hot dipped galvanized finish vs. the painted finish account for the difference in weight between the worthington and faber?

I guess that could be part of it, but given the fact that the two tanks have different buoyancy characteristics (Worthington -2.5/-10 and Faber -0.59/-8.41), I would guess it more has to do with slightly different shapes. They both hold 100 cf at 3442 psi, but they are not identical tanks apart from the finish.
 
I just purchased two HP 80s. I'm short (61") and I love thes! They give me more gas than my AL 63 without thumping me in the back of my thighs. Plus, love having the negative weight on my back, instead of the floaty aluminum.
TSandM-which tanks do you use for your doubles? I have these steels and my AL63s. Thinking the steels would be better since I'd be using a drysuit.

---------- Post Merged at 12:08 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:05 PM ----------

I guess that could be part of it, but given the fact that the two tanks have different buoyancy characteristics (Worthington -2.5/-10 and Faber -0.59/-8.41), I would guess it more has to do with slightly different shapes. They both hold 100 cf at 3442 psi, but they are not identical tanks apart from the finish.
Can the galvanized finish be fancied up with paint or anything? I just bought my new-used tanks and their just so "homely".

---------- Post Merged at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 12:05 PM ----------

Faber steel LP85! Overfilled to 3500 gives you 112cf in a really handy size! Plus the awesome buoyancy characteristics of a steel tank!


I thought the LP was only supposed to be filled 10% over 2400? Well, Shoot, I can't even get our dive shop to fill my husband's LP past 2400, despit the "+"rating. They also won't fill my HPs past 3,000.
Then again, the SDI instructor who was filling them yesterday was telling me a story about how she didn't realize how much her air consumption would change from gaining 30 pounds and that she ran out of air on her 80 foot dive in Bonaire. And, how she panicked when an Eagle ray swam past her. Instructor?
I tried to explain tank markings to her but after those stories, I sort of figured it was hopeless. She really couldn't figure out what any of the numbers were.
I had to show her where the current hydro was.
 
Unless you plan to marry that tank, you are better off thinking in terms of a range of tanks. I like 7.25 inch diameter tanks, then I don't have to mess much with my tank straps. An Al 80 satisfies most of my needs for gas volume. When I need a bit more, I have one HP100. In that diameter, the stable includes 53, 60, 63, and 80 in Aluminum and 65, 80, 100, and 120 in steel. I also have a few 63 and use them often for local diving.

If you think you need more single tank volume than that, the the next step is 8 inch diameter tanks. the smallest in that diameter is an 80 but you can reasonably got up to almost 150 cu ft if you need it. (The Heiser 190 has ridiculous, almost unusable, buoyancy characteristics.)

The LP85 (and 72s) are interesting tanks but they are 7 inches or less in diameter, the largest tanks in that diameter, and few other choices.

Diving is one diver and an array of absolutely necessary tanks.
 

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