Hp Yokes?

[spectrum]

Bottom time? You have 22.6 CF more gas to work with. You need a dive plan to see that as time. It could easily add 1/3 to your runtime.

I went with DIN for my E7 cylinders. it was just a better margin of safety.

The fill is correct when the pressure is 3442 and the temperature of the gas in the cylinder is 70F. Since pressure will vary with temperature you need to qualify the temperature to predict the volume based on pressure. It may take as much as 4 hours for the contents and cylinder to equilibrate in ambient conditions.

Pete

 

[oxyhacker]

If your old tank is an 80 and the new one is a 100, then you will get about 25% more duration.

No need for a DIN valve. That's the whole point of the 3442 pressure tank, it doesn't need one. If you go to a DIN valve you will also have to convert your regulator so you are looking at $100-150 to convert both valve and regulator, and you would loose the flexibility of being able to use a yoke. If you converted to anything, it should be a combo DIN/Yoke valve. But are you sure it doesn't already have one? Most of them do. If its new and doesn't, I'd take it back to the diveshop and see what it would cost to change it. You can spot the convertible valves because they have a insert which is removed using a large allen wrench.

 

[KelpCoasters]

Bottom time? You have 22.6 CF more gas to work with. You need a dive plan to see that as time. It could easily add 1/3 to your runtime.

I went with DIN for my E7 cylinders. it was just a better margin of safety.

The fill is correct when the pressure is 3442 and the temperature of the gas in the cylinder is 70F. Since pressure will vary with temperature you need to qualify the temperature to predict the volume based on pressure. It may take as much as 4 hours for the contents and cylinder to equilibrate in ambient conditions.

Pete

Thank you all. Those were the general answers I was looking for. Obviously the amount of added bottom time would be relative to my depth... but thank you Spectrum, that helps a lot.

DIN valve it is.

 

[KelpCoasters]

If your old tank is an 80 and the new one is a 100, then you will get about 25% more duration.

No need for a DIN valve. That's the whole point of the 3442 pressure tank, it doesn't need one. If you go to a DIN valve you will also have to convert your regulator so you are looking at $100-150 to convert both valve and regulator, and you would loose the flexibility of being able to use a yoke. If you converted to anything, it should be a combo DIN/Yoke valve. But are you sure it doesn't already have one? Most of them do. If its new and doesn't, I'd take it back to the diveshop and see what it would cost to change it. You can spot the covertible valves because they have a insert which is removed using a large allen wrench.

Cool, thanks OXY. My reg is already DIN so that wouldn't be an issue.
What do you mean by convertible DIN/yoke? Are you saying that I can somehow screw my DIN first stage into this valve?

 

[Double_D]

Cool, thanks OXY. My reg is already DIN so that wouldn't be an issue.
What do you mean by convertible DIN/yoke? Are you saying that I can somehow screw my DIN first stage into this valve?

Absolutely. There's a plug inserted in your valve that screws out, leaving a threaded hole that accepts your DIN first stage. When it's screwed in, it looks like a yoke valve face. Isn't technology wonderful? Two accepted regulator systems, one convertible valve that works for both types. Your LDS can help you sort it all out.

Congratulations on the new tank!

 

[divinginn]

i have a question,im thinking of replacing my 40yo steel 72 with a new hp steel 100 will my scubapro mark 10 first stage work at those pressures safely?

 

[DA Aquamaster]

The Mk 10 was initially designed for pressures up to 3300 psi. 3442 should not be a problem nor should 3500 psi as long as the tolerances in the piston stem and regulator body where the HP o-ring seats are still tight. Wear on the stainless steel piston stem is a non issue, but there is not really an easy way to measure the tolerances inside the brass first stage body.

However, even in perfect condition, the Mk 10 does not do well at 300 bar (4350 psi) pressures as the high pressure o-ring can begin to extrude into the clearance between the piston stem and the regulator body. When this occurs little crescent shaped chunks get taken out of the o-ring and a leak occurs in short order.

The Mk 15 was introduced primarily to allow operation at 300 bar pressures and it used a set of replaceable bushings that both allowed tighter tolerances and ensured those tighter tolerances could be renewed at each anual service. This same system is also used in the Mk 20 and Mk 25.

So in short your Mk 10 might work...maybe...and how long will depend on how high the service pressure since the higher the pressure, the shorter the life of the HP o-ring.

You can pick up a Mk 15 fairly cheap on E-bay. Better yet, I have two Mk 15's for sale to a good home from my private dive locker. One is in near mint condition and the other is in very good to excellent condition. Both are upgraded with the later seat retainer for 4350 psi service and both will be freshly serviced with the sale. Both are avilable set up for yoke or DIN service. $100 yoke, $130 DIN.