JettaAsn
Registered
I'm thinking about buying a HP Steel Tank. Aside from the obvious air gain, is it hard to adjust using a 119 tank in the water? I heard that it can be awkward. Thoughts?
HP Steel 100 Versus 119
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FM1520
Contributor
I currently own a steel 72 and a LP 123+. What are you currently using? Assuming you are going from AL to steel your will be able to drop about 6 - 8 lbs of weight depending on your body size. I find the buoyancy characteristics are better with the steel especially at the end of the dive. One of the disadvantages of the HP is getting it filled all the way to 3442 psi especially on boats. Even if they can do high pressure it takes longer and it seems I rarely get a full 3442 between dives. I have a LP steel tank, same buoyancy as the HP but it much easier to get a full fill. Hope this helps.
Bubbletrubble
Contributor
No, it's not difficult to adjust to the HP119. Same height, slightly heavier out of the water, fatter. In the water, I feel like it dives the "same" as a HP100.
You should know that the HP119 has an 8.0" diameter, whereas the the HP100 has a 7.25" diameter. I standardize all my tanks so that they are the same diameter. This means that I don't have to adjust my tank cambands when going from one of my tanks to another. I currently own AL80s, HP100s, and HP120s -- all are 7.25" diameter.
I don't know what kind of gas needs you have, but for the diving I typically do, the HP100 is pretty much the ideal tank. I find the height of the HP120 a little annoying whenever I have to schlep the tank on land. In the water, it works fine.
Locally, I don't have any issues getting fills to the HP tank service pressure (3442 psi or 3500 psi). YMMV.
If you live in an area with a vibrant dive community, you might get lucky and be able to pick up one of the HP steel tanks used. Here in San Diego, one can save 50% off the retail price by buying used. Just make sure that you are taking into consideration all the costs to make the tank dive-able (cost of hydro, VIP, valve overhaul, tumbling if necessary).
Mayor
Contributor
During my air hog time I had single 130's which are just a few inches longer then the 119's if your going that route then look at the value of the 130's. For me these tanks became to heavy and building a balanced rig was never going to happen unless you were dry. So the better choice was 100's for me even if they were a bit short. Easy to handle and just enough air for most dives. See if you can rent some of the different sizes from a local shop. Even some pool time with these tanks will help you discover what works best. The trim in water will be effected by what tank your getting so something that works with you will help you become better faster.
Depending on what you have been using, and depending on your exposure suit, and depending on whether you are talking about salt or fresh water, yes (or no).
For a diver used to an AL80, diving in fresh water, with a thin exposure suit, changing to a 119 will present an initial challenge, getting used to the difference in both bouyancy and trim., As already noted, it is an 8" tank, plus it is heavy, and it is shorter than an 80, as an example. With a thin exposure suit in fresh water I suspect you will notice a tendancy for it to roll, and make you want to turn turtle. I notice that even with a HP 100. In salt water, in a 3 or 5mm wetsuit, or a drysuit, I doubt you would notice it. I don't.
Exactly! You will gets used to it after a dive or two, and won't even notice it after that.HowardE:
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