How to reattach metal faceplate to Galileo Sol

[Hatul]

The metal faceplate came off my Galileo Sol after the last dive. Looks like the grey glue at the four corners released from metal and is still attached to the plastic computer.

What's the best way to reattach the faceplate? What kind of glue to use and do I need to remove the old glue?

 

[sander8]

Mine did the same thing. This must be a design flaw. I tried cyanoacrylate crazy glue but it did not last very long. Duct tape served well around the perimeter for about 50 dives. I have sent mine to Scubapro for other service problems (persistent failure to pair with tank transmitter). If I did not have that other service problem I would have tried a good marine epoxy from West Marine. But I would have used duct tape at the corners as a backup until I was sure that glue holds well. Removing the old glue is something I would try but I would not want to damage the unit if the glue is too robust. A new epoxy glue job could just be a bit thicker than the old residue.

 

[flots am]

The metal faceplate came off my Galileo Sol after the last dive. Looks like the grey glue at the four corners released from metal and is still attached to the plastic computer.

What's the best way to reattach the faceplate? What kind of glue to use and do I need to remove the old glue?

It seems to be a common problem. I'd probably just leave it off since it's just cosmetic, however I'll bet if you give SP a call, they would fix it for free, since they seem to be falling off quite frequently.

I don't know any way to permanently fix it without just replacing the parts.

flots.

PS. If you send it in, make sure you get your dives out of it first. When I sent my SmartCom in a few years ago, I got back a new computer, which was nice, but also didn't have any dives in it except for the "test" dives.

 

[JulesSCUBAPRO]

Please return the Sol through an authorized dealer with the old faceplate. If the old plate is not defromed, we can rebond it easily enough.

 

[Hatul]

Please return the Sol through an authorized dealer with the old faceplate. If the old plate is not defromed, we can rebond it easily enough.

I'm trying to avoid sending it in as it would mean at least 2 weeks without it. So I bought some marine epoxy, sanded down the old glue a bit with my Dremel tool and buffed the inside of the metal faceplate and re-glued it. It needs 24 hours to fully cure. If it doesn't hold I'll send it in.

I think the problem is the inside of the faceplace is a shiny metal which does not give the glue anything to hold to. Roughening the metal hopefully will hold the glue better.

 

[Hatul]

My gluing survived the first dive: a 70 minute dive to a max of 44 feet at Shaw's Cove. I used J-B Weld Marine Epoxy that I found at at local O'Reilly auto parts store.

Can I ask you Jules what glue Scubapro uses?

 

[Hatul]

My gluing has so far survived several dives including one deep dive to rec limits. Seems good as new.

 

[Eyematey]

It's August of 2014....I have had this happen twice, last time used 3M 5200 marine adhesive, lasted maybe 10 dives. Any updates on what to use?? Jules, you still there?