How to install din converter to MK25 1st stage?

[eth727]

Does anyone know how to install a din converter to MK25 1st stage?

 

[walke121]

If you don't know what you are doing with regs I would strongly suggest you take it to your LDS. I put the din converter on all of my regs but I have some experience working on them.

 

[Mr Carcharodon]

Does anyone know how to install a din converter to MK25 1st stage?

Your converting from yoke to DIN? In that case you unscrew the nut that hold the yoke on and then replace the yoke with the DIN parts. You need a fairly deep open end wrench or a slotted tool with the right width to get the yoke nut off.

DIN to yoke just screws unto the DIN threads.

This may help: www.divesafety.net/files/MK20-MK25RepairGuide.pdf

 

[Bubbletrubble]

To clarify, this is not the spin-on adapter that allows one to use a DIN first stage on a yoke tank valve, right?
For converting the MK25 from yoke to DIN, it should only take a crescent wrench, the use of an appropriately sized hex wrench and the right parts.
Here's a link to the PDF version of the Repair Manual for the MK20 and MK25. Don't over-tighten and check that the piece is secured before/after dives. If you're unsure about how to do this, take it to your favorite reg tech. It should only take a minute.
Good luck.

 

[eth727]

Yeah it's one of those $50 yoke to din converters

 

[Bubbletrubble]

OK, then I think all of the suggestions that we've made so far apply. There's some work involved but it's not too bad. It is possible to mess up the yoke nut if you do it incorrectly, though.

In addition to doing this by yourself, you have three other options:

1. Get a more experienced diver to help you make this change. It's very easy if he/she has done it before.
2. Pay a reg tech to make the change. Should be relatively inexpensive. Part exchange should not take longer than 5 minutes.
3. Wait until your next scheduled reg overhaul and instruct the tech to install the DIN connection. This should be included with the overhaul at no extra charge.

Once you convert to DIN, it would be good to keep a DIN-to-yoke spin-on adapter in your save-a-dive kit. It will save you some heartache in the unlikely event that you are forced to rent a yoke-valve tank. Good luck...

 

[halocline]

The only thing to be concerned with is the torque value on the DIN retainer, it's 22 ft/lbs (more or less) and you'll need an allen wrench socket on a torque wench to get that. You don't need the special socket to remove the yoke nut, you can even use a vise to hold the nut and twist off the regulator using a piece of PVC tubing as a breaker bar.

 

[Bubbletrubble]

The only thing to be concerned with is the torque value on the DIN retainer, it's 22 ft/lbs (more or less) and you'll need an allen wrench socket on a torque wench to get that.

@mattboy: You know, I've never bothered to get a torque wrench. I just screw it in by hand and snug it up with the appropriately sized allen wrench. Then I make sure to check that the piece is holding tight during post-dive rinsing and pre-dive before attaching the first stage to my tank. I've never had any problems.

Have you encountered any issues when you haven't used a torque wrench to install the DIN piece?

If so, can you recommend a brand/model of torque wrench that would be useful for not only this repair but also general reg servicing? I'm making the move to servicing my own regs soon. Thanks in advance...

 

[halocline]

My torque wrench is in inch/pounds, I got it at harbor freight I think. The inch/lb spec is 275, mine only goes to 250, so I give it just an extra little tug and call it close enough. I don't know how crucial it is to get it exact, I think the main thing is to not severely over-torque. Doing that split a few MK 20s a while back, then SP came out with an idiot-proof DIN retainer.

 

[redacted]

My torque wrench is in inch/pounds, I got it at harbor freight I think. The inch/lb spec is 275, mine only goes to 250, so I give it just an extra little tug and call it close enough. I don't know how crucial it is to get it exact, I think the main thing is to not severely over-torque. Doing that split a few MK 20s a while back, then SP came out with an idiot-proof DIN retainer.

There is also a potential problem with too little torque. The pressure from a tank can make a pretty solid connection between the tank valve and the din/yoke retainer. It is possible to twist the first stage (like when the boat crew is lifting your gear from the water) and loosen the retainer. Such a problem should be caught in a bubble check at the beginning of a dive avoiding possible subequent problems, but proper torque will go a long ways towards avoiding the problem in the first place.

Plenty of torque wrenches on ebay but you probably should check calibration on those. My reg have torque specs ranging from 266 in-lb (about 22 ft pounds) down to about 35 in-lb. While you might be able to cover that range with just one tool, I have 2; one 3/8th inch drive and one 1/4 inch drive.