How to install din converter to MK25 1st stage?

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My torque wrench is in inch/pounds, I got it at harbor freight I think. The inch/lb spec is 275, mine only goes to 250, so I give it just an extra little tug and call it close enough. I don't know how crucial it is to get it exact, I think the main thing is to not severely over-torque. Doing that split a few MK 20s a while back, then SP came out with an idiot-proof DIN retainer.

Hay Mattboy my book says that you should torque @ 266 inch pounds no more. And it has been that for a while.
 
I watched as my LDS tech did the conversion on my Mk20. It took him about 45 seconds, but it's got enough steps and requires enough tools where I really wouldn't want to learn on my own without someone walking me through the first time, and I'd DEFINITELY want that done in person.
 
Hay Mattboy my book says that you should torque @ 266 inch pounds no more. And it has been that for a while.

That is what the newer schematics indicate for Mk10 & 20/25. But older schematics called for 275 to 325 in-lb for the brass version and 240 to 250 for the UL version. Looks to me like someone decided compromise and simplification were more important than good engineering practices.
 
Plenty of torque wrenches on ebay but you probably should check calibration on those. My reg have torque specs ranging from 266 in-lb (about 22 ft pounds) down to about 35 in-lb. While you might be able to cover that range with just one tool, I have 2; one 3/8th inch drive and one 1/4 inch drive.

I'm planning on a 3/8" drive torque wrench someday soon. I bought the 1/4" (in/lbs) wrench mostly for the brass turret bolts, which really have a critical torque spec. I'm not sure how you check calibration on a torque wrench other than try several of them and hope they all click at the same time.

For those really crucial torque values, I suppose you could find a periodontist and ask to borrow one of those tiny torque wrenches they use in dental implants.

I'm fairly certain that yoke nuts/DIN retainers can easily handle the difference between 266 and 275 in/lbs. If they were that sensitive to torque values there would probably be just a few problems given the fact that so many LDS techs don't even have a torque wrench.
 
I'm not sure how you check calibration on a torque wrench other than try several of them and hope they all click at the same time.

They can be re-calibrated, but you know me well enough to know that is not the kind of thing I would do unnecessarily. I'd sooner re-chrome a 109.:D But I have taken two torque wrenches and checked one against another to verify they were getting about the same results. I also used this technique to calibrate my torque arm extender. With an extender, you can easily use you 250 in-lb wrench to measure higher values. The error is also magnified but when you are working with a range of 266 to 325 in-lb, that does not sound like much of a problem. An extender can be fashioned out of either a flex handle or a slide bar.
 
If you just need a torque wrench occasionally, just go to your favorite auto parts store and borrow it or use it on the spot. Bring a clean cloth and alcohol to keep the grease and grime off your regulator, etc. Try to borrow the "deflecting beam" type-if I remember correctly they are the most accurate in either clockwise or counter clockwise direction. This is very handy for torqueing the turret retainer on MK10 and similar turrets where you can remove the end plug and insert the Allen wrench into the retainer from the outside. They also maintain their calibration the longest. Remember not to use jerking motions and pull-not push on the wrench.

Couv
 
Some people are just jealous. :mooner:

I don't think it is jealousy as much as my realization that even my rubbed and scratched up metals are probably going to outlast me. I may need to be re-chromed.:depressed:
 

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