How to clean a Yoke adapter?

[Seanothon]

I am currently working on my Dive Master training in Koh Tao, so I am diving almost every day. I have a DIN to Yoke adapter for my regulator because they use Yoke tanks here.

I am trying to avoid having my adapter and first stage corrode together so I rinse the adapter and the DIN treads after a dive then leave them separated to dry until my next dive.

My concern is that some moister or dust may be getting into my first stage during this process. Should I avoid rinsing the first stage all together and keep its cap on between uses?

 

[skankpile]

If you really want to avoid it use tribolube EPO2, or a bit of O2 clean lube. EPO2 is great because it is dry and will not attract dust, cat hair, whatever.

If you have dissimilar metals then some barrier is best to avoid electrolytic corrosion. If you are facing a corrosion issue and tightening plated or SS threaded parts you may want the PTFE and an O2 lube combination to help prevent galling and a good coat of PTFE will stop any electrolytic concerns.

 

[Colliam7]

I am trying to avoid having my adapter and first stage corrode together so I rinse the adapter and the DIN treads after a dive then leave them separated to dry until my next dive. . . . My concern is that some moister or dust may be getting into my first stage during this process. Should I avoid rinsing the first stage all together and keep its cap on between uses?

I would continue to separate the adaptor from the first stage after every day of diving. That allows you to more thoroughly rinse the threads on both the adaptor and the first stage. Even when they get rinsed together, over time you will see some corrosion develop at the interface, when diving salt water. If you rinse properly and avoiding simply squirting water into the inlet on the DIN port on the first stage, moisture contamination should be minimal / trivial, and it should readily dry. There is no reason not to put the cap on between uses. You possibly get as much moisture into your first stage from the air fills.

If you are concerned about dust / moisture contaminating the first stage, the concern would be at the filter. Filters are cheap (unless the ONLY filters the op has are in parts kits) and easy to change. Even then, unless you plan to prolong your DM training, I wouldn't worry about changing the filter, given the fact that this process won't go on very long, unless you know you flooded the DIN connector aperture.

 

[tr3a]

I use a DIN to Yoke adapter on my Poseidon. I never take the adapter off while traveling and do not even rinse that much (wait till I am home). Corrosion has never been an issue. I have been doing this for many many years. Keep the moisture out of the internals and you will be fine.

 

[Peter_C]

What brand and model of 1st stage are you using? What about swapping the DIN fitting out for a yoke, and not use the adapter? *Most* regs cost between $50-$75 us dollars. A local shop might even have the parts available used, or?

 

[Seanothon]

What brand and model of 1st stage are you using? What about swapping the DIN fitting out for a yoke, and not use the adapter? *Most* regs cost between $50-$75 us dollars. A local shop might even have the parts available used, or?

It's a Zeagle flathead 7. I don't really want to switch the fitting. I prefer DIN.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

I am not a believer in the "leave it on" approach. As a tech I see a few of these every year and they are a bitch to get off. Once the chrome on the threads is compromised the process of corrosion and difficult removal accelerates. If you do that, use a lubricant to help reduce galling of the threads and to provide a barrier.

I'd continue what you are doing in terms of unscrewing, rinsing and drying, although you may be able to consider doing the disassembly weekly rather than daily and just cover the inlet with an o-ring sealed cap and rinse the reg and adapter thoroughly with fresh water. If you start to see or feel some corrosion you can do a warm water soak to remove it, or use a solution of 50% water and 50% white vinegar and a toothbrush to remove it - just rinse thoroughly afterwards.

In any event, for a DIN reg I'd get a good quality DIB cap so you can cover the inlet fitting anytime the adapter is off, and when using the adapter, I'd also use a inlet cap for it.

 

[Colliam7]

It's a Zeagle flathead 7. I don't really want to switch the fitting. I prefer DIN.

I think you may misunderstand the suggestion being made. It is not an 'either - or' situation, rather it is a suggestion to help you expand your options. And, it is as much a suggestion for the future as it is for your current situation.

You mention that you are in a DM program, therefore in the future - as a DM - you will be expected to be a model for other divers. You should also be functionally familiar with your equipment. As I understand it, the suggestion is to have parts available to convert your first stage back to yoke, as needed. The necessary parts (only) consist of a) an A-clamp and b) a yoke bolt. The conversion, going either way - DIN to yoke, or yoke to DIN - takes all of 60 seconds.

If you prefer DIN, as many of us do, that's great. But, you do not have a DIN connection now, even if you prefer it (you have a DIN bolt threaded into a yoke adaptor). You have a yoke connection, and any presumed advantage of a DIN connection is lost, when you dive a DIN-to-yoke adaptor; i.e. you are dependent on the O ring on the cylinder, and the stability of the yoke connection to the cylinder. In fact, what you also have is a repositioning of your first stage closer to your head, with resulting opportuinities for head bumping.

For my DIN Zeagle regs, I ALWAYS carry an A-clamp and a yoke bolt in my reg bag when I travel, to the Caribbean for instance. The same goes for my Apeks DIN regs. That way, if I am faced with using a yoke cylinder, I convert my first stage to yoke for the duration of the trip. As a future dive professional, you would be well-served to be able to do that as well.

 

[Seanothon]

I think you may misunderstand the suggestion being made. It is not an 'either - or' situation, rather it is a suggestion to help you expand your options. And, it is as much a suggestion for the future as it is for your current situation.

I understand what you are saying and I know that right now I do not have a DIN setup. I will check some equipment stores for the pieces you mentioned. I am a bit hesitant, having no real experience servicing my own regs and needing them so much at the moment. It would suck to mess it up and be without it for the rest of the trip. It does seem like a simple switch, however.

 

[MSDT476614]

I understand what you are saying and I know that right now I do not have a DIN setup. I will check some equipment stores for the pieces you mentioned. I am a bit hesitant, having no real experience servicing my own regs and needing them so much at the moment. It would suck to mess it up and be without it for the rest of the trip. It does seem like a simple switch, however.

I did my DM on Koh Tao. Heck I did everything on Koh Tao except teach. Op I was with included general servicing of rental equipment (they had 200+ sets then) on a rostered basis as part of the internship. Check with your op if they allow you to do that.

This form of internship helped me ID equipment problems quickly and posible be able to supply ad-hoc solutions for that one dive prior to returning to shore to get a proper fix.

Alternatively, if you're going to be there long, invest in a couple of cylinder valves that are 'pro' (both DIN / yoke simply by removing insert with hex/allan key) and ask the OP permission to switch out a couple of tanks for you to use. Should be not a major problem.