How to choose the right torch

[rob.mwpropane]

I have the XTAR D26 1600...and love it.

The first one I got about a year ago...had trouble screwing together...and then the light switch failed.

I shipped it to China [cost as much as the light...~$68 for a new one]....and they just emailed last night to say it was fixed and on its way back to me, under warranty.

In the meantime, I bought a new one from the same place...www.lightmalls.com...and it came with a much easier to screw together case.

I am now waiting for the repaired one to come back

Does yours ever turn itself on? Mine CONSTANTLY finds a way to turn itself on. I combat that by making it my primary, but if I clip it off, or it's not on the top of the bag....its on by the time I get back to it.

 

[stuartv]

I have the XTAR D26 1600...and love it.

The first one I got about a year ago...had trouble screwing together...and then the light switch failed.

I shipped it to China [cost as much as the light...~$68 for a new one]....and they just emailed last night to say it was fixed and on its way back to me, under warranty.

In the meantime, I bought a new one from the same place...www.lightmalls.com...and it came with a much easier to screw together case.

I am now waiting for the repaired one to come back

I have 2 of the D26 1600s and I have pretty much quit using them. I use one of my D26 Whales, if I want a cordless primary. I use one of my DGX600s as a backup, when I carry a 2nd light. The D26 is a better light, but the DGX is enough smaller, that I carry that as a backup, since it's generally going to just stayed clipped off to my left shoulder strap anyway, and never get used. And I have 2 of those, also.

I quit using the 1600s for the same reason Rob said. The "lock" is nothing but holding down the power button for 3 seconds. That is not a lock. Mine get turned on by accident all the time. I don't know what Xtar was thinking with that. My first 1600 had other issues, so they ended up replacing it. But, the way that one locked and unlocked was actually useable. You had to press the On/Off button 3 times in a row to unlock it. That one was MUCH less likely to turn on by accident. But, really, the quarter-turn mechanical lock on the Whale is the way to go.

Now, I have a UWLD LD-40 can light as a primary. If I need something brighter (or longer burning) than the D26 Whale, I use that.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I have 2 of the D26 1600s and I have pretty much quit using them. I use one of my D26 Whales, if I want a cordless primary. I use one of my DGX600s as a backup, when I carry a 2nd light. The D26 is a better light, but the DGX is enough smaller, that I carry that as a backup, since it's generally going to just stayed clipped off to my left shoulder strap anyway, and never get used. And I have 2 of those, also.

I quit using the 1600s for the same reason Rob said. The "lock" is nothing but holding down the power button for 3 seconds. That is not a lock. Mine get turned on by accident all the time. I don't know what Xtar was thinking with that. My first 1600 had other issues, so they ended up replacing it. But, the way that one locked and unlocked was actually useable. You had to press the On/Off button 3 times in a row to unlock it. That one was MUCH less likely to turn on by accident. But, really, the quarter-turn mechanical lock on the Whale is the way to go.

Now, I have a UWLD LD-40 can light as a primary. If I need something brighter (or longer burning) than the D26 Whale, I use that.

It has to be in the goodman handle, on the back of my hand, otherwise it's hanging somewhere.....guaranteed to be "on".

Horrible design.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

I do agree with it turning on by itself and it is a terrible design in this application. Mine has turned on several times on its own.

Personally, I am on a tight budget...and I love the performance. I either load the batter at the dive site or just as I am leaving to head to the dive site. I make sure the light is secured such that it will not turn on by accident on the way.

It is not a super inconvenience, IMHO. FYI, my career is in HW development...and yes...this design is poor....but, at the price point and the light output, I am happy. Plus, they did stand by to fix it when it broke

When I get the funds, I will certainly look to upgrade. I loved my old Greenforce light I had....should have never sold it lol

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I do agree with it turning on by itself and it is a terrible design in this application. Mine has turned on several times on its own.

Personally, I am on a tight budget...and I love the performance. I either load the batter at the dive site or just as I am leaving to head to the dive site. I make sure the light is secured such that it will not turn on by accident on the way.

It is not a super inconvenience, IMHO. FYI, my career is in HW development...and yes...this design is poor....but, at the price point and the light output, I am happy. Plus, they did stand by to fix it when it broke

When I get the funds, I will certainly look to upgrade. I loved my old Greenforce light I had....should have never sold it lol

I have both the D26 1100 and the D26 1600. I can't tell the difference to the naked eye when it comes to output. I mean, I'm sure it's there, but my 1100 cost me $46 without the battery shipped and it will never turn itself on. I use it as a backup because I can trust that it will always be ready. Just my 2 bubbles.

I know we all want the latest greatest, but for OW rec diving, I would choose the 1100 every time. The ONLY reason I use the 1600 is because it was given to me to review, and I make it work by using it as my primary...I really can't use it any other way. If it were to die today, I would never buy another. If I can't depend on it to stay off, then I can't depend on it to do what it's supposed to do.

 

[stuartv]

I agree. The difference in actual brightness of output between the 1100 and 1600 is so small, that is just another part of the reason I don't bother to even use the 1600s anymore. The difference is SMALL, at best. The 1100 works VERY well for any diving I have done. I only got the UWLD light because it was a package deal on a used one, when what I really wanted was the battery canister, to run my heated shirt. The UWLD light is super nice. Don't get me wrong. I'm just saying, I have not done any diving yet where the 1100 was not more than adequate.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I agree. The difference in actual brightness of output between the 1100 and 1600 is so small, that is just another part of the reason I don't bother to even use the 1600s anymore. The difference is SMALL, at best. The 1100 works VERY well for any diving I have done. I only got the UWLD light because it was a package deal on a used one, when what I really wanted was the battery canister, to run my heated shirt. The UWLD light is super nice. Don't get me wrong. I'm just saying, I have not done any diving yet where the 1100 was not more than adequate.

Yes Sir, 100%, I haven't done all the diving you have, but if anything when it gets darker I find myself turning the brightness down a bit, very rarely do I run it full blast. With all the backscatter in the water more is just not needed.

On paper, the 1600 looks like a sure thing, but in reality, 1100 does everything and it's more dependable. Can't say enough good stuff. I grease the o rings every 15-20 dives, charge the batteries (or sometimes forget) and it just works.

 

[Andrew Dawson]

Wild!! I originally tried to order the D26 Whale based on reviews here especially from StuartV...but...I could not find a new one...and rolled the dice on the D26 1600. Wow, if I knew the D26 1100 was the same output [the ratings have the be taken with a grain of salt, as we all know, right??] but had a better switch, I would have certainly chosen it.

So, when these D26 1600s blow up....hopefully not literally...I will seek the D26 1100s

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Wild!! I originally tried to order the D26 Whale based on reviews here especially from StuartV...but...I could not find a new one...and rolled the dice on the D26 1600. Wow, if I knew the D26 1100 was the same output [the ratings have the be taken with a grain of salt, as we all know, right??] but had a better switch, I would have certainly chosen it.

So, when these D26 1600s blow up....hopefully not literally...I will seek the D26 1100s

It DOES put out more light, just not enough to be noticable. I have a review on here somewhere with both lined up underwater, it's pretty hard to tell the difference (underwater light pictures comparing lights kinds suck though).

I doubt the 1600 will stop anytime soon, they're both well made lights. If the 1600 had a better locking mechanism it would be a no brainer.

 

[BoundForElsewhere]

i would stay away from tiki torches for the time being.