How to choose the right torch

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I wanted to add, make sure if you have someone print these to go heavy on the infill. At least 80% or greater (this is how "dense" the print is). My first print was 60% I think, and after a few months it started to crack where the bolts were.

Also, don't leave it in the sun if it's printed out of PLA (mine is) PLA is fine, but can't take heat. My 1st one did warp a little laying on the dashboard.... I just flipped it over and it warped back. If you can, ABS would be a better filament to print it out of, but also more expensive... but is supposedly pretty strong and no issues with heat afterwards from leaving in a hot car.

Just my 2 bubbles....

Noted. I really appreciate that advice. I would probably be more inclined to use ABS as I'm not the one doing the actual printing, so if the part warps (as I understand ABS can do while printing), it's on the printer.

As to your previous post, Rob, Yes, I have your file downloaded already from our previous chat about it. I really like the design, including the little "shelf" towards the rear to help support the weight of the battery.

That Raider Light Sock still has a velcro closure in the palm right? How faster and easier is it to remove than the other velcro "double back" style of soft handles? That's where I find my complaint with the soft handles, they're not as fast and easy to remove and secure...
 
That Raider Light Sock still has a velcro closure in the palm right? How faster and easier is it to remove than the other velcro "double back" style of soft handles? That's where I find my complaint with the soft handles, they're not as fast and easy to remove and secure...

It's more secure than those other style, but maybe not QUITE as quick to remove as a hard handle.

The Raider has a loop of bungee that you pull on over your hand all the way to your wrist. That is what makes it totally secure. But, does add half a second or so to putting it on and taking it off.

The velcro closure that goes around your palm is something that, once set, I never change. Just like a hard handle. It doesn't need to be tight, either, since it's the bungee loop around your wrist that makes the whole thing secure (and it doesn't need to be tight, either - just not super loose).
 
It seems there is another similar flashlight more powerful than the whale but with a different and better type of safety lock
D26 2500LM flashlight don't know how much it costs

lock.jpg
 
It seems there is another similar flashlight more powerful than the whale but with a different and better type of safety lock
D26 2500LM flashlight don't know how much it costs

View attachment 632123

I believe that is the exact same lock as the D26 Whale. But, it IS different than the lock on the D26 1600 (which is terrible).
 
It seems there is another similar flashlight more powerful than the whale but with a different and better type of safety lock
D26 2500LM flashlight don't know how much it costs.

The button-lock is the same as the Whale version, though this one appears to have more output.

Here is the D26 Whale:

XTAR WHALE D26 L2 U3 (Switch upgrade) Diving Flashlight

Here is the D26 2500:

XTAR D26 2500 Scuba Diving Flashlight|ShenZhen XTAR Electronics Co., Ltd

The main differences appear to be the body machining and LED board. (At least for the short, the long is the aforementioned plus double battery.)

For what it's worth, I've had my D26 Whale for a couple months now, it's been on about 30 dives so far, and has been performing great! No issues with accidentally turning on, no functional issues with the lock or button, and have only needed a single charge to easily last 9 dives over a weekend (2 of which were night dives on low to medium power).
 
Looks identical to this:


And this:


So I guess not OEM.
 
Specs are different, unless it's a different LED chip which I doubt, someone is over estimating/underestimating specs (Kraken N-800/T1 800). The anchor lists theirs as 650lumens FWIW.

BF0C69A9-6F0F-4BD7-93B3-8E58FB729D94.png
A97F823F-8EDB-4A0E-9A6F-D8D3DCDA7AEC.png
 

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