How do I know when I'm ready to start UW photography?

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Excellent thread and responses - adding to the Sticky!

FWIW - I'd grab a simple camera for your upcoming trip and fire away :) Don't grab the camera until you are confident you are in control during the dive and don't try to be a National Geographic shooter on the first try - just get used to the new gear & enjoy yourself a bit. Watch yourself, talk to your buddy before the dive so you're both on the same page - be organized & prepared, then go for it and have fun!
 
As I suspected, I am in the minority here.

I don't think the question should be "how many dives" or "how many years of diving" because there are hundreds of reports in this forum where people have seen "experienced" divers doing stupid things, and some that never seem to learn.

On the other hand there are people who "get it" much quicker, or have a more balanced approach.

My attitude and priority when going into the water with a camera is;
1. Dive safe and learn something new, or practise at least one existing skill.
2. If the opportunity arises, grab some photos, but never let the photography get in the way.

I can certainly understand that if you let yourself get too focused (pun intended) on the photography, then thngs could get out of hand but my idea of scuba photography right now is simply to document and help remember my dives. I am not necessarily trying to create works of art.

I am not trying to blow my own trumpet here but let me give a typical dive scenario from my last vacation.

Just to understand, the "rig" I am using is very simple, a Canon S95 in a WP-DC38 case on an Inon arm base with a single S2000 strobe shooting wirelessly. This set has 200 grams negative buoyancy without any additional weights. I have this on an extendable lanyard that can be clipped short and close. Up to now I am shooting on Auto (Aperture priority) to keep my task loading with the camera to a minimum. Also, I only shoot in RAW so I don't need to get too anal about white balance and exposure. This allows more latitude to pull the image back to reasonable on the computer.

In addition to my wrist computer, I have my Citizen dive watch set with dive time alarm and max depth alarm, just in case I get carried away.

I enter the water, if from a boat I have my camera handed down to me, clip it to my BCD and temporarily forget about it.

I descend with my buddy (my daughter in all cases so far) aiming for good control and achieve neutral buoyancy.

We swim to the reef or whatever is the key feature of the dive.

Only now do I grab my camera, extend the lanyard, switch on camera and strobe then swim.

My buddy lets me take the lead so that I am free to start or stop moving at will and know that she is going to be close by. Sometimes, my daughter will take the camera, then I become the trailing buddy.

After each stop (maybe 2 or 3 photos) the photographer confirms the presence of the trailing buddy.

If we are on a guided dive with several other divers, the trailing (non-camera) buddy will keep an eye on the pack and make sure we don't get left too far behind.

If a situation arises such as an unexpected current, bad visibility then the camera gets clipped on tight and photography is abandoned.

For sure, I don't get 100% keepers from this type of photography but that is not the point. I am trying to improve step by step, having fun and most importantly keeping some beautiful memories.

Just to re-iterate, the images at this link were all taken on my 6th to 10th dives with no external strobe.

Below are a few images from my 16th to 19th dives (in Guam) (all are reduced in size for bandwith)

(BTW, I know my daughter's alternate is dangling but the rental BCD's were not equipped with any retainers)
 

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"Camera" could entail anything from an inexpensive point and shoot costing a few hundred dollars to a dSLR rig costing 10,000 dollars.

My little camera, the one I admit to owning (shhhh, I have several, some are secret), including strobes and housing and a couple of lenses and odds and ends ran about 4,000 dollars. What do you trust yourself with at this point? Handling an expensive camera and lens and strobe in the water and getting in and out of the water and on the boat deck is a challenge even for experienced divers. The dive becomes all about THE CAMERA! The Camera! The Camera! THE CAMERA!!!!!!

You should have superb balance in the water, you should be able to back up, turn, pivot, roll and even somersault without use of any hands, hand swimming or pushing off or bicycling, you should be able to stay off the bottom and handle all adjustments to gear one handed while suspended in open water. You should be able to approach your target, take the shot and back off without damaging or smashing into anything. A camera rig can be quite negative, even several pounds, can you handle that underwater without it throwing your balance off. OK, imagine grabbing a brick and holding it constantly while on a dive, on the deck, even to and from the boat.

Then, have some Euro-tourist rudely impinge on your space and knock your 4,000 dollars camera on to the deck and then restrain yourself from thrashing them without mercy. Or smile politely when the deck mate drops your camera into the water dislodging the lens and watching it disappear into the blue depths.

If you can do these things, you might be ready to carry a camera.

N
 
"Camera" could entail anything from an inexpensive point and shoot costing a few hundred dollars to a dSLR rig costing 10,000 dollars.

My little camera, the one I admit to owning (shhhh, I have several, some are secret), including strobes and housing and a couple of lenses and odds and ends ran about 4,000 dollars. What do you trust yourself with at this point? Handling an expensive camera and lens and strobe in the water and getting in and out of the water and on the boat deck is a challenge even for experienced divers. The dive becomes all about THE CAMERA! The Camera! The Camera! THE CAMERA!!!!!!
I think your level of photography is completely at odds with what the original poster and I are talking about. Sure, if you want to shoot National Geographic level, then the gear and the training and experience need to be right up there.

But for us mere mortals, I see no reason not to grab as many pics as possible as soon as I feel comfortable in my own abilities.

You should have superb balance in the water, you should be able to back up, turn, pivot, roll and even somersault without use of any hands, hand swimming or pushing off or bicycling, you should be able to stay off the bottom and handle all adjustments to gear one handed while suspended in open water. You should be able to approach your target, take the shot and back off without damaging or smashing into anything. A camera rig can be quite negative, even several pounds, can you handle that underwater without it throwing your balance off. OK, imagine grabbing a brick and holding it constantly while on a dive, on the deck, even to and from the boat.
You are obviously far more experienced than me but personally I would NEVER try to dive (even with far greater experience) with a such a negatively buoyant rig. It would be hard work, very uncomfortable and I would hate to think of losing that lot in the deeps.

Ever seen this video clip? The best stuff starts from about the 1 minute mark.


Anyone know how to get youtube embedding working correctly??? You can see it here...INON FLOATARM - YouTube


Then, have some Euro-tourist rudely impinge on your space and knock your 4,000 dollars camera on to the deck and then restrain yourself from thrashing them without mercy. Or smile politely when the deck mate drops your camera into the water dislodging the lens and watching it disappear into the blue depths.
What has that got to do with diving ability?
 
I think your level of photography is completely at odds with what the original poster and I are talking about. Sure, if you want to shoot National Geographic level, then the gear and the training and experience need to be right up there.

But for us mere mortals, I see no reason not to grab as many pics as possible as soon as I feel comfortable in my own abilities.


You are obviously far more experienced than me but personally I would NEVER try to dive (even with far greater experience) with a such a negatively buoyant rig. It would be hard work, very uncomfortable and I would hate to think of losing that lot in the deeps.

Ever seen this video clip? The best stuff starts from about the 1 minute mark.


Anyone know how to get youtube embedding working correctly??? You can see it here...INON FLOATARM - YouTube



What has that got to do with diving ability?

I was not talking to you, the OP did not specify the level of camera equipment as I have seen new divers with very expensive equipment, as to the rest, again, you stick with what you say, I will with what I say, expensive equipment gets broken, the less experienced diver is likely to see damaged gear more frequently due to other concerns. If you want to argue with somebody, go find somebody else to argue with, thanks.

Edit: Due to my lack of interest in an argumentative exchange justifying this or that, I have added you to my ignore list, bye.

N
 
I was not talking to you, the OP did not specify the level of camera equipment as I have seen new divers with very expensive equipment, as to the rest, again, you stick with what you say, I will with what I say, expensive equipment gets broken, the less experienced diver is likely to see damaged gear more frequently due to other concerns. If you want to argue with somebody, go find somebody else to argue with, thanks.

Edit: Due to my lack of interest in an argumentative exchange justifying this or that, I have added you to my ignore list, bye.

N

Nemrod,
I don't care if you can't see this.

First off, your post was directly under mine and you didn't include any quote or reference to any other post, so how am I to know who you are supposed to be posting to. You should maybe learn a bit of forum etiquette.

Secondly, I wasn't being argumentative.

Third, the OP is obviously new to diving and has stated he doesn't have any kit yet so it is highly unlikely he will be diving with a huge rig.

Fourth, You come over very superior sounding yet you seem to think it is okay to dive with a "several pound negative" camera rig. Well, I may not have as much experience as you but it sure sounds like I have more common sense.

And finally, if I ever do see you on a boat with your holier than thou attitude, I will have great pleasure in knocking your overweight camera over the side and seeing it sink to the bottom. Try ignoring me then!!!

Oh, and yes I am European!!
 
Lots of good advice here. One more suggestion. Carry a "photo stick" UW. It's simply a rod, typically aluminum, about 12-15" long with string at one end to loop around your wrist. Use it to balance yourself and avoid coral/creature damage when you loose control, which you will do.

You can buy them for a ridiculous amout of $$. I make my own from 1/4" AL rod and put a plastic thread protector (cap) on the end. Cost is about $2 that way. So when I loose one, it's no big deal. Plus I usually give one or two away on a dive trip.

Many photo pros routinely carry them for balance and to stay off the environment.

Practice with your camera & housing blindfolded until it's all second nature (on dry land).

Start small. A P&S with a small housing and no more than one small strobe. Sealife camera or something similar is a good place to start. Buy a used one to begin with. And NEVER, NEVER, NEVER leave your camera in a rinse bucket unattended. If it's in the rinse bucket, you should have your hand on it. Many floods occur in the bucket as unattended cameras bang together.
 
Let's keep it civil, kiddies. There's no need to threaten dastardly deeds or be jerks to each other.

FWIW to those wondering about the negatively buoyant camera rigs - they are pretty standard, even some of the smaller rigs are negative, and that is not a big deal. One just needs to know one's equipment and be comfortable diving with it.
 
Suggestion check your air after every second picture. Either you are not taking enought pictures or out of air.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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