How can I use a D-180 and YS90 together?

[Dee]

Since Gilligan got his new strobe and reported such great results, and all the good things I've read, I'm seriously considering adding this same strobe to my set-up. My first thought is to replace the YS90DX with the smaller D-180, but I know before long I'll be wanting to use them together.

Since the YS90's velcro patch covers the whole diffuser panel and the D-180's FO connection uses the diffuser panel, how can I use both these strobes at the same time?

 

[Mo2vation]

Since Gilligan got his new strobe and reported such great results, and all the good things I've read, I'm seriously considering adding this same strobe to my set-up. My first thought is to replace the YS90DX with the smaller D-180, but I know before long I'll be wanting to use them together.

Since the YS90's velcro patch covers the whole diffuser panel and the D-180's FO connection uses the diffuser panel, how can I use both these strobes at the same time?

If I'm not mistaken, the S&S velcro patch covers the front of the panel, doesn't it? The D180 F/O clips to the top of the diffuser, and resides between the panel and the PC body of the housing - effectively catching the light before it gets to the diffuser.

It will work without the I/R film strip - so your flash will still fire and trigger your S&S. Unless the velcro panel blocks light before it gets to the panel, you're in good shape.

I've attached a quick pic of the Inon F/O attachment.

K

 

[ReyeR]

I think the velcro patch goes over the gap between the body and diffuser panel so you won't be able to clip the Inon adapter on the panel.

The most elegant solution (but a destructive one) I can think of is if the FO cable of the YS-90 is of similar thickness as that of the D-180 you can cut the cable and use the Inon adaptor to hold both cables.

 

[Mo2vation]

I think the velcro patch goes over the gap between the body and diffuser panel so you won't be able to clip the Inon adapter on the panel.

The most elegant solution (but a destructive one) I can think of is if the FO cable of the YS-90 is of similar thickness as that of the D-180 you can cut the cable and use the Inon adaptor to hold both cables.

So the patch and cable go between diffuser and body? Bummer. Sounds like they're one piece.

Like you said - the Inon has room for two F/O cables in there...

K

 

[Gilligan]

There may be some other complications involved in combining the Inon and the Sea & Sea strobes.
First off the Inon attachment to the PT housing has two holes for fiber optic cables. So a second cable can be added. The holes are not visible in frames 2 and 3 below but there are two side by side.

The problem may arise with the overall design of the two strobes. The Inon uses a piece of film strip over the cameras flash which converts the light to infra red for transmission to the strobe head. Will this interfere with the firing of the Sea & Sea strobe if its fiber optic cable is connected to the same attachment?
I was looking over the instructions I downloaded for the D-180 and page 12 talks about using the D-180 as a slave to another master strobe. You may want to check that out. I don't know the workings of the YS90DX but the Inon has a system that intensifies the reading of the cameras pre-flash so as to put out more light from the strobe for underwater use and at the same time reduces the intensity of the cameras main flash to save power and recycle time.
The fiber optic kit for the PT-015 is almost identical to the PT-010 that I have.
Also go to the Inon support site and click on the Optical Cable link. It is the kit for the PT-015.
I am very curious to see if and how the YS90DX fires connected to the same Inon housing attachment and with the I/R strip on the cameras flash.
Of course the I/R strip does not have to be used and the Inon fiber optic cable can somehow be spliced into the YS90DX Velcro setup.

 

[Dee]

The Velcro patch totally covers the diffser and prevents the light from escaping. This photo shows it in place on the PT-10, it fits the same on the PT-15.

I guess I don't fully understand how the D-180's FO connection works. I thought the sensor fit behind the diffuser panel and there is some sort of film that goes over the flash panel. Could someone explain it more clearly?

My only reservation about the D-180 is it being permanently attached. I have had strobe malfunctions, either dead batteries, wrong setting, my stupidity, etc. and with the S&S velcro, I just removed it and used the cameras internal flash. With the D-180, I won't have that option.

Could the Inon bl clamped to the side instead of the top of the PT diffuser? Or I do have an extra FO cable I would think about cutting and adapting to the Inon connection.

 

[Gilligan]

The Inon sensor partially fits behind the diffuser panel. The main portion is in front of it with two set screws, which by the way do mark up the panel from off and on clamping down.
After looking at your Velcro setup I am convinced you will have to somehow connect the Inon cable to the S&S patch setup.
You are also correct in the fact that the Inon I/R patch on the cameras flash prevents you from using the cameras flash. You can with your Velcro setup.

 

[Mo2vation]

My only reservation about the D-180 is it being permanently attached. I have had strobe malfunctions, either dead batteries, wrong setting, my stupidity, etc. and with the S&S velcro, I just removed it and used the cameras internal flash. With the D-180, I won't have that option.

Could the Inon bl clamped to the side instead of the top of the PT diffuser? Or I do have an extra FO cable I would think about cutting and adapting to the Inon connection.

The dark film, from my understanding of the instructions (and from testing it ABOVE water) is desired to enable Inon's "Clear Housing" system - whereby it prevents your whole housing from lighting up like a Jack-o-lantern and creating backscatter.

That said, the Inon flash does not require the film to fire via slave. It seems to me that can still have the velcro patch over the diffuser, and slip the Inon flambus on the side (it has little chrome attachments that funnel light into the end of the F/O cable) and make it work.

To Gilligan's point, because it REALLY pre-flashes, it may require some adjustments for the S&S.

Clear as mud?

K

 

[Gilligan]

Mo2vation is right on with the I/R patch. It is designed to pevent the housing from lighting up from the cameras flash. It is a marketing point for Inon but the strobe works w/o it.
I'll bet you can get both the Inon attachment and the S&S Velcro attachment on the diffuser at the same time.

 

[ReyeR]

I don't know the workings of the YS90DX but the Inon has a system that intensifies the reading of the cameras pre-flash so as to put out more light from the strobe for underwater use and at the same time reduces the intensity of the cameras main flash to save power and recycle time.

Ok, two issues here: 1. getting the strobes to work together (on Dee's setup) and 2. attaching the FO cables

1. Strobe and camera setup:

• Dee has a C5050 + PT015. I imaginge it'll be used in 'Slave' flash which emits no preflash, so pre-flash issues will be moot
• The Inon will be set to 'not pre-flash aware' ie the magnet installed
• The YS-90 will be set to 'On' and not to 'Pre'

Here's where it gets complicated:

• Do you use both strobes in manual? The YS-90 has 10(or 11) settings and the D-180 only 4
• Use the D-180 in external auto and YS-90 in manual as a fill strobe
• Use the D-180 in external auto and slave the YS-90 to mimick the duration

The 'clear film system'

• The YS-90 will work with it installed (people have been using the YS-90 with DIY IR film blocks before Inon came out with the system)
• The clear film system is installed inside the housing, so yes, if you use it you will not be able to use the internal flash
• The D-180 will work without the film installed