HOG Comparable Regs

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The only volcano orifice I've ever had to retire permanently is a Sherwood Brut that had been severely abused with a drill bit.
I have had great success re-finishing volcanoes with careful use of a small/medium Phillips screwdriver bit lightly spun in the hole followed up with a fine abrasive stick......I know it sounds an unlikely fix but seems to work for me.
 
The only volcano orifice I've ever had to retire permanently is a Sherwood Brut that had been severely abused with a drill bit.
I have had great success re-finishing volcanoes with careful use of a small/medium Phillips screwdriver bit lightly spun in the hole followed up with a fine abrasive stick......I know it sounds an unlikely fix but seems to work for me.

Yes, it's a lot of work. Similar mechanism for me (related post: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/repairing-your-own-gear/462067-dressing-metal-orifice.html) but the built-in volcano nicks can only be dressed from the inside of the hole to the outside. Nicks in the slope of the volcano need to be dressed flat from the visible end, and then "cored out" to restore the fine knife edge of the seating ring. It makes for a slightly larger seating ring diameter, which changes the balance of the reg a little. Sometimes you can use a spinning draftsman's eraser with the abrasive gray/white rubber rod to work the outside of the slope, but it's dicey. Still, if you can save the reg body, it's an enjoyable success.
 
Make no mistake the replaceable HP valve seat(AP5721) is a very good idea. But it won't improve the performance of the 1st stage. Whether it is worthwhile for the consumer is debatable. I do love to see Apeks to incorporate this on every model, it shouldn't be that difficult. But then they cannot charge you an arm for the FSR.
 
I notice a considerable drop when switching from my 200s to my 50s. The ANSTI tests note it as well though
I have a DS4 and a FSR on my twin set and never noticed if there was any difference in performance at any depth. I do breath the octo from time to time to make sure everything is in working order.
 
I have a DS4 and a FSR on my twin set and never noticed if there was any difference in performance at any depth. I do breath the octo from time to time to make sure everything is in working order.

Me neither and I too own both, but then I'm not an ANSTI machine.
 
Maybe the biggest difference between those regulators would be , the swivel turret, the hose routing , no ?
 
Does any manufacturer still include lifetime service parts? That used to be a critical part of the analysis of which to buy. Service kit costs can add up over the years. Following the manufacturers rules to keep the warranty intact can be difficult, but well worth it to save $100 a year in parts.

If lifetime parts are not available on any of the brands you're looking at, then check out the cost of the parts kits. Scubapros used to be significantly more than others. Again, the ongoing cost differences add up.
 
Does any manufacturer still include lifetime service parts? That used to be a critical part of the analysis of which to buy. Service kit costs can add up over the years. Following the manufacturers rules to keep the warranty intact can be difficult, but well worth it to save $100 a year in parts.

If lifetime parts are not available on any of the brands you're looking at, then check out the cost of the parts kits. Scubapros used to be significantly more than others. Again, the ongoing cost differences add up.

Service kit parts costs add up much slower over the years when you don't waste it on unnecessary service. $100 worth of parts will last me at le3ast 5 years. And, since I do the work myself, I avoid the $25 to $50 per stage labor cost that one must pay to receive "free" parts.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom