hid light

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This is for the ballast alone plus another $70 for the lamp for a total of $120 but still not too shabby.

If I remember the issue is more WA selling one offs to individuals. They seem to want to only sell the developer pck of 5 blub/ballasts for $500.
 
d33ps1x:
This is for the ballast alone plus another $70 for the lamp for a total of $120 but still not too shabby.

If I remember the issue is more WA selling one offs to individuals. They seem to want to only sell the developer pck of 5 blub/ballasts for $500.


MMmm Thanks for the Heads UP.
Their drawing is misleading.
It illustrates the lamp attached to the ballast.
The link page shows a price of $50 , but does not state "Ballast Extra".

Mike D
 
I have done plenty of research into the HID light and here is what I have found. HID lights are very susceptible to heat, even stated on the Welch Allyn website. The ballast must not reach 90 deg. C. Therefore, the ballast, unlike a halogen where the lamp heats up, must be cooled. To do this the light head has to have a tight tolerance to the ballast, slip fit would be nice. Also remember that if the ballast is more than 6 inches away from the power source, battery, the wires must be twisted to prevent voltage spikes which will kill the ballast and the lamp.

The fittings must be waterfight fittings, obviously. JB weld is not and will never be a watertight seal. JB Weld is for replacing metal for cosmetic use only, basically.

I have designed a light head which does take all of this into account and it works just fine. I am in the process of getting WA lamps, 10W, !2v, HID lamps delivered in a 5 pack and will be making canister lights. System has already been pressure tested and I will let you know of the thermal characteristics when I get the thermal tests results back.

How do I know all this stuff you might ask, I am an Electro-Mechanical Engineer that loves (and teaches) diving. This is what I do for a living and I just thought I would make a canister light myself. Is all you need is a compentent machine shop to do the rest. When making these underwater lights, make sure the o-ring seal is correctly done. I have seen to many underwater lights leak because of incorrect o-ring seal. For me to tell you how is a long drawn out process but I will come up with something to help everyone. If you have any question please feel free to email me.
 
The light heads will not be focusable, although I may work on one in the future. The light wattage is basically an option, whatever lamps are available will go into the light head. 10w, 17w, 21w: 6 degree, 13 degree etc. Right now the batteries are 4.5 ah batteries, NiMH which means this particular light with a 10 w HID will last 4.5 hrs with recommended burn time of about 3.5 hrs without sacrificing battery life expectency. Goodman handles and others will also be able to be attached.


boomx5:
Are your light heads going to be focusable, and is there going to be an 18w light head in the works? Also, are they going to be lead acid or nmh batteries?I would also be interested to know if and how you will be attaching Goodman handles to the heads.

Thanks,
 
I see a couple of new names through out this thread so for those that haven't seen the DIY site take a look. I have the plans for a DIY canister light as well as 80 some pictures of how it was built, all for free. Kind of a pay back for those that helped me build mine. It's just a halogen but you might be able to get some ideas from it to build your own HID version. And if any one wants to post pictures of their completed light and information on how it was built there is a section for that as well.

Scott

DIY light
 
Not a problem, glad to help. If you have any questions just PM me and try to answer them.

Scott
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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