Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
We are not experts, we don't want to become experts, we just want to get the best hero3 vids we can without spending too much time or money. We dive both warm and cold (to mid-50's) water to about 60 ft depths.
Perhaps more importantly, we should probably get a rig with some uw lights. Oh boy, there goes another few hundred bucks!
We are not experts, we don't want to become experts, we just want to get the best hero3 vids we can without spending too much time or money. We dive both warm and cold (to mid-50's) water to about 60 ft depths.
Perhaps more importantly, we should probably get a rig with some uw lights. Oh boy, there goes another few hundred bucks!
Hi Bill If your diving only to about 60ft depths in daylight some filters will likely be quite effective, water conditions will have an effect and in clear blue waters though you will get away with slightly green the URP cyan filter should be the go. If getting a blurfix3 SO adapter you can get the cyan dome and adapter together for a pretty good price.
If in the winter months your water tends to get more green and lower vis then a green water filter may be best bu you can always first try the cyan to see if it helps much before going for the URPro GR filter if needed.
Light wise at your depths if your not doing any night diving then maybe hold off on them until youve done some diving without and with a filter, then if you think you still want lights and they will help you out. In daylight use they will only be effective quite close to the camera so for general wide angle shots a filter will be all you need unless your getting in very close to your subjects where lights are more effective. If your diving wrecks or caves plus night dives then lights will come in handy but I wouldn't go for them just for mostly daytime use in good light if your not going much beyond 60ft.
Here are a few more recent videos I shot with the Hero3.
A short video shot in 2.7k30 pt cam raw. Depth for Elsa's reef was about 7.5m and also using a cyan filter here.
Here is one just making a little fun from a friend of mine, the wide shots were 2.7k with just a swcy filter and the reverse slow motion bubble eating is 1080p60 narrow both with pt on and cam raw.
The only way to get 1080p narrow with pt on atm is by using the app to set the mode as its not selectable within the camera setting with the current firmware.
Here is another Macro test in slow motion this time just using 2 +10 macro filters stacked. This is 1080p60 narrow mode slowed 50% to 30p.
I have also been shooting some comparisons between the hero1 2 and 3 black but none of the footage has been all that great on those dives with either nothing to see or poor vis conditions so I may hold that off until I get some better footage rather then just a basic underwater shot showing not much.
---------- Post added January 2nd, 2013 at 08:13 PM ----------
Seeing as I hadn't posted my first underwater macro test in this thread here it is, I think this video turned out pretty well with some great conditions and a bit of interesting life in it too, image quality wise probably the best I have got out of a gopro so far. Also shows a bit of potential from the hero3 black, I have a few other macro filters I will be trying too just haven't got around to it all and have quite a bit of unedited footage to get through also.
in clear blue waters though you will get away with slightly green the URP cyan filter should be the go. If getting a blurfix3 SO adapter you can get the cyan dome and adapter together for a pretty good price.
Where / how do you get them?
I keep promising to post my video but never get around to it. This is my very first bike video filmed with gopro hero3 black editions using various mounts.
This month we are also allegedly going to dive in the gulf so I will finally get around to testing my cameras in water.
in clear blue waters though you will get away with slightly green the URP cyan filter should be the go. If getting a blurfix3 SO adapter you can get the cyan dome and adapter together for a pretty good price.
Where / how do you get them?
Thats the link to SRP and you can also go to the SRP Dealers to see a list of their stockists around the world. I am really liking the new Blurfix3 and people have been using it with all sorts of filters as it works as a 55mm filter adapter for any other filters too.
I will post some videos up when I get a chance to edit them up and will also try and do a basic tutorial to show how you can use protune with cam raw wb and fairly easily, just using the free cineform studio get much better results every time compared to the auto modes.
I purchased the filters from SRP. In fact, I have the Cyan filter mounted to my Go Pro 3 Black. I'm a bit confused at some of the results and do not know why I have such a variance in the results. I dive in Monterey, California where the water tends to be slightly greenish, although when it is clear it is nice and blue. There are some parts of videos that I have shot that are putrid/pea-green, while others are fairly representative of the colors that I saw with the naked eye. During playback, I can even see the transition from green to the full color spectrum (as much as is allowed underwater).
I'm fairly pleased with the Cyan filter as it has delivered, although I would like to have better consistency. Is there a setting in the camera that I can adjust or is my handling of the camera (angle, position relative to available light source, etc). Appreciate your feed back and thanks for sharing your results with the camera.
Ouvea, what setting are you shooting in ? I found the auto WB in the GoPro to be a little unpredictable. Shooting in 2.7k Protune with Raw WB gave me more consistent and better results. Color and contrast is a little flat, but that makes it perfect for adjusting in editing.
I was using the default setting. From what I see, WB = Auto and Protune = Off. From what I noticed, when I begin shooting, the output is green and then slowly the video begins to show the actual surrounding colors. I will try shooting with the WB=RAW and ProTune=On. Hopefully this solves the momentary problems. Thanks again for the help.
Pretty much like RonScuba said, the awb is quite erratic I found and using pt with can raw will give very consistent results. You need one more step in post by adjusting the image a little wait will come out pretty flat. Using auto modes I have experienced the same but can raw hasn't had any issues for me down to 30m or in poorer conditions where the go pro auto web tends to struggle most. Nearly all my video have been shot in cam raw web in 1080p30/60 or 2.7k and the improvement over older go pros and regular mode in the 3 black is well worth the extra processing needed I think.
Here is an example of my last video showing the raw and graded image side by side to give you an idea of what the raw image will look like and what you can get from it.
Using this mode has never had any issues for me but using auto mode there are times when the web freaks out and the shots quite useless. I'd hate to capture something real cool only to lose it to awb issues so I always shoot us like this.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
is 1080p60 narrow both with pt on and cam raw. 
