Help with U/W Video in so-cal

[Teamcasa]

Billy,
That’s a sweet setup! As for lights, I use two Nocturnal SL50s for mine. The one thing about lights is they are only good for a few feet. They really make the difference in close up filming but unless you are using a surface feed light system with a gazillion watts, then its all about price, weight, durability and run time.

When I was in Kona diving with the mantas, a few videographers were using HID light systems (I did not ask about the wattage) and I was using the 50W halogens. No doubt in my mind, the SL50’s were brighter and illuminated the scene better. I also realize anecdotal evidence means little but I love my lights and would not change my decision.

Dave

 

[diversteve]

So my next question is, which lights should I be looking at to purchase in the coming months?

L&M is coming out with a set of Led lights. They're supposed to be brighter than their HID's with 90mins. burn time.

New LED Lights from L&M - Wetpixel :: Underwater Photography Forums

 

[limeyx]

Thanks everyone for the advice! (except for know-it-all sam, that was no help what-so-ever) Luckily with video you can see what your image looks like as your filming right? Hopefully the 2.5" monitor that is in the housing looks pretty good.

So the general consensus seems to say that if you're not using lights, which I'm not ready to shell out another $2K yet, then the filter goes on.

Dave, the camera I'm using is a Panasonic DVX100.


So my next question is, which lights should I be looking at to purchase in the coming months?

Billy

I have found that the camera LCD on my FX1 (visible through the housing) does not accurately reflect what gets laid down on the tape.

What's on tape is somewhat darker than the LCD. I have no idea if there is any factual basis for this with the FX1, but that's definitely how it seems -- I end up lightening or throwing away a lot of footage that looked fine on the LCD.

I have the Salvo dual 24W light with Li-ion battery with 150 mins burntime.
Canister with battery is on my waist so they dont make the housing much more negative. I use the buoyancy arms also.

This might be a good application for LED's but I dont (yet) quite see they have any huge advantages cost/burntime wise, but should be a bit less flaky.

I use the E/O connectors to hot-plug underwater and they are definitely quite flaky (especially when using the Y-connector)

I might be able to dig up some comparison footage of red filter/no filter -- i think I sent some to someone else a couple of months ago, but not sure if I still have it.