Help needed with LED modification (DIY module)

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Hallo All

I recently renewed my battery packs of my 2 niteriders and took the opportunity to add new LED bulbs.
However the new leds don't produce a lot of light ( 2x 2.5W bulbs type MR11).

I was thinking to put in 2x 10w diy led modules.

Question is that I don't know to handle the heat.
The light case is made out some kind of armoured plastic and does not have room for heatsinks (or just small ones). There is more or less only room for the light bulb itself.
Although the 20W and 35W halogen bulbs also produces a lot of heat. And I presume much more than the leds so logically thinking it won't be a problem, but sure is sure.
I understood from reading that Leds give there heat out to the back, correct? Or if not cooled enough they break. That is why i have doubts.

When testing the LED bulbs (2x 2.5W) the light case and front did not raised in temperature after 4hours full burn. The Halogen bulbs made it much hotter. "Burned" myself accidentally touching the case with my leg.

Thinking of using the following parts:
Cool white 10pcs 10W High Power LED SMD bead Chips bulb DIY DC9-12V 800-900lm
Power Driver for 1x10w LED Light Lamp 12V MR16
And use an old reflector of the halogeen (needed for secure seal) to beam the light a bit and secure the led diode (thermo glue ?!) and even put in a small heatsink at the back.
I use the lights mainly for video and depending my mood for normal diving.

I also like this mod: Conversion of an OMS Phantom 10W HID light to LED - help needed

What do you think? is it worth the risk?

Thanks Paul
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moonniepaul
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get a boost/buck converter instead and wire up two xm-l2 emitters instead imo. it would require a fair bit of modding though. if you have heat issues, as a last resort you can fill the light with mineral oil.

DC-DC Buck Converter Module LM2596 Constant Current & Voltage Adjustable Module

Top 10W Cree Single-Die XM-L 2 LED T6 White 20mm Star Base,1050Lm 3000mA


Hello RunsOnGas,

Thanks for the info.

The DC DC buck is much to big for both canister and head.
I don't have any electrical background, that's to say I know how to solder and all basics but what driver in combination to what LED I am lost.

Given the parts my thoughts were to use:
60 degrees lenses (21 mm diameter and height 13mm) and fit them in a cut out old blub (or fabricated ring to overcome the distance)
This will leave me with enough room to put in a driver like this one:
10W 20W 30W 50W Constant Current LED Driver For High Power DC 9-24V to DC 30-38V
that is the 10w (L 26x w 17 x H 12mm)

If that will be a good combination of course :wink:

I don't know how to regulate the voltage the driver but i suspect this is something automated.

If you can get me on the way and brainstorm a bit more, thanks

Paul
 

runsongas

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the throw distance on those smd chips is going to be low. you probably would need a diffuser in order to focus the light output. technically, the smd chip and that driver would work, but the efficiency won't be as high and you might be underwhelmed by the performance.
 
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moonniepaul
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ok
I did some reading and beside i got more confused I also learned something.

To run a led in a good way you need a driver (a Buck or boost buck).
And a good heatsink of course.

As i don't want to change to much on the housing, I think i can make a heatsink and extent the heatsink connecting the LED and driver there.

Basics:
  1. Battery pack is 11 cells 13,2V 4500mah, I can modify this but that means I need a new charger
  2. Battery pack has no room for buck or other electrical components (with 11 cells)
  3. case, with the designed heatsink I have room for 2 drivers max diameter 30mm by height 20 mm
  4. the case has a grayhill rotary switch and "no" i don't want to change that. I want to use this for turning on/off and when possible for high low beam/ 1 or 2 lights. There are 4 stands original: OFF / LIGHT 1 / Light 1+2 / Light 2
  5. LEDS: as there is 13.2V powering 2x XM-L2 is no problem. i even think i can power 2 x MT-G2 which have a good CRI rating!

I am lost on what to choose, is possible and what combines yes or know.

What is a good combination and give the best results?
There are so may buck drivers. I don't know which to choose
Some come with 5 modes (low strobe mid high etc) and i tried to understand how it works but i can not find how to switch between the levels..... Yes a button but how is it connected?
Will I loose a lot of power/Run time from the battery using the xm-l2?

Thanks for the help
Paul
 

DBF

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Hi mate, jump onto cutter.com.au they helped me out with a similar project. The blokes answered my question about matching drivers to LEDs

You need to invest in quality parts else you will be disappointed in the results. Driver, LEDs and optics are all as important as each other. Most of the stuff you will get off eBay will be low quality and will effect the end result.

Most drivers require a pulse to switch between modes so your rotary switch may not do what you want with out a conversation circuit added.

You will also need to look at a battery protection circuit as they are not built into the drivers and it may damage your battery beyond repair if ran to dead flat.

Paul
 

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