Hating my G9/patima

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Hi Nemrod,

Personally, I shoot my wide angle pictures, including the ones I posted within this thread, in AV Mode with the flash set to ""Auto" and the Inon Z-240's set to "STTL" on the main dial and "TTL" on the adjustable dial. Also, I always keep the preflash button pushed-in, which is designated as the "Normal" setting.

I'm sure there are several ways that the camera/strobe settings can be adjusted, and I suspect that several of those ways will yield great results, but that's what I'm currently using and it seems to be working for me.

FYI

Adrian

Yes, that setting works on my 570 as well. All Canon P&S have similar menus and functions. Setting my camera flash to Manual instead of Auto reduces heat build up in the housing and saves the already stressed two AA batters. I imagine the G9 has more power reserve.


If as you suggest, I set to Av, camera flash Auto, Inon to sTTL it is simply point and shoot, yes. What I have not been able to determine to my satisfaction is if the Inon in sTTL flash tricks the camera's flash into a lower output than otherwise would result. What do you think? Do you see that happen? I see it happen that way when I put the camera in Auto instead of Av but have not really shot enough to say for sure. Are you using the Clear Photo film system? I quit doing that because I was afraid it would overheat the flash. I have used a piece of developed film slipped into the housing (on my Ike housing) to allow passage of IR only to trigger the Inon.

To recap SFL shoots:

Camera in Av (arperture priority auto mode)
Camera flash in Auto
Inon set in sTTL mode, button pushed in (???????) (Z240)

I was suggesting as a guess and defer to SFL:

Camera in Av
Camera flash in Manual (and Forced) and power set to lowest setting
Inon set in Auto, match power dial to camera arpeture, magnet installed (D2000)

This makes it easy for me to shift from flash mode to no flash for ambient light, just push the Flash button on the camera, there is then no flash. The Inon just sits there fat, dumb and happy ready to fire as soon as I push the camera's flash mode button back to Forced.

Think about this, camera flash in Manual there are only two flash settings, On (Forced) and Off. With the camera's flash in Auto you then you have to cycle through On, Off, Normal and Redeye. I may not be correct on that on the G9?

Considerations, the camera's internal flash will Preflash when the camera is in Auto, Av or Tv and the camera's flash is set in Auto mode. If the camera's flash is set to Manual then in Auto, Av or Tv there is no Preflash. This is what I think is true but you will have to evaluate on your own.

I would buy a G9 to go with my two 570s but I think I will get the Nikon P6000 in September (stores taking orders now) instead or the new Oly micro 4/3 "rangefinder" (no release date).

N
 
To Nemrod and Adrian, please keep this conversation up if you don't mind as I'm finding it very helpful and interesting to see what others are using for settings. I have a Canon A620 with D-2000, and now have just added a Z-240 as a second strobe. I have mostly been using manual or AV on camera and manual on flash. Like Nemrod I also turn the camera flash down to its lowest setting. I use manual on strobe as I wasn't convinced I was getting consistent enough flash results with the strobe in either Sttl or Auto. And I'll admit I have become totally confused regarding the preflash in the various camera modes, so I've just left the magnet in. Seeing Adrian's results have made me think twice that perhaps I should give Sttl more of a chance, particularly now with two strobes I'd rather not being adjusting both manually if I can avoid it.
 
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Yes, that setting works on my 570 as well. All Canon P&S have similar menus and functions. Setting my camera flash to Manual instead of Auto reduces heat build up in the housing and saves the already stressed two AA batters. I imagine the G9 has more power reserve.

Not sure exactly how many shots I can take with my G9. I've been using an aftermarket battery, which has a bit more power, and seems to be working well. For example, yesterday I shot approximately 190 shots underwater between two dives, and also viewed my pictures on the monitor after each of the dives, and the battery indicator, which is not very detailed, was still indicating more than have of the overall power availble.

While on the liveaboard trip I'm doing in September to the Bahamas, I'll definitely have the opportunity and time to fire enough shots to drain the battery, so I'll post my results once that happens.


If as you suggest, I set to Av, camera flash Auto, Inon to sTTL it is simply point and shoot, yes. What I have not been able to determine to my satisfaction is if the Inon in sTTL flash tricks the camera's flash into a lower output than otherwise would result. What do you think? Do you see that happen? I see it happen that way when I put the camera in Auto instead of Av but have not really shot enough to say for sure.

Truthfully, I'm not sure how the preflash is being affected my choice of setting, as I've just been using that setting because it works for me. I'm not sure how to best test your question, because my housing is so closed up, that I cannot practically see the intensity of each flash of the camera.


Are you using the Clear Photo film system? I quit doing that because I was afraid it would overheat the flash. I have used a piece of developed film slipped into the housing (on my Ike housing) to allow passage of IR only to trigger the Inon.

The Patima Housing has a feature on the front of it which allows you to insert the slave cable directly into it, so there's no need to fiddle with any of that. If you look on the inside of the housing, the end of the slave cable sits on a piece of glass directly in front of the camera's flash. Unfortunately, there is only one slot for a slave cable, so it doesn't make provisions for dual strobe slave cables. I remedied that by connecting another slave cable, which runs from my primary slave strobe to the secondary strobe. Reef Photo sells the kit which allows you to attach the slave cable on the face of the primary strobe, and the cable is long enough to run it along the arms and base plate, all the way to the secondary strobe and connect it to the standard optical connection on the Inon Strobe.


To recap SFL shoots:

Camera in Av (arperture priority auto mode)
Camera flash in Auto
Inon set in sTTL mode, button pushed in (???????) (Z240)

Yep, that's how I generally shoot, and I do keep the preflash button pushed in.


I was suggesting as a guess and defer to SFL:

Camera in Av
Camera flash in Manual (and Forced) and power set to lowest setting
Inon set in Auto, match power dial to camera arpeture, magnet installed (D2000)

This makes it easy for me to shift from flash mode to no flash for ambient light, just push the Flash button on the camera, there is then no flash. The Inon just sits there fat, dumb and happy ready to fire as soon as I push the camera's flash mode button back to Forced.

Think about this, camera flash in Manual there are only two flash settings, On (Forced) and Off. With the camera's flash in Auto you then you have to cycle through On, Off, Normal and Redeye. I may not be correct on that on the G9?

Considerations, the camera's internal flash will Preflash when the camera is in Auto, Av or Tv and the camera's flash is set in Auto mode. If the camera's flash is set to Manual then in Auto, Av or Tv there is no Preflash. This is what I think is true but you will have to evaluate on your own.

I see the advantages of what you are suggesting, but to be honest to you, I do not shoot too many pics with the strobes turned off, just when I'm shooting very wide angle shots of wrecks from far away, usually on way up the anchor line, so I'm not too concerned about saving time turning off the flash.

Also, the Auto Mode on the Inon's is something that sounds good in theory, but I don't think it works too well for wide able shots, because it assumes you have your strobes pointed directly at your subject, and since I am usually shooting in not the most ideal visibilty, I generally have my strobes pointed a bit out and away from my subject. However, if shooting macro shots, which I do not do very often, it would probably be a good option. However, keep in mind, that if shooting the Inons in Auto Mode and you are using a diffuser to soften the light, as I do, then you will need to have the diffuser for that mode. The Auto Mode diffuser has a special hole in it, which is different on the normal one. I have them, because I fooled around with that a while back, but it didn't really work for me, and even the folks at Reef Photo agreed that it was not the perfect mode for non-macro shots.


I would buy a G9 to go with my two 570s but I think I will get the Nikon P6000 in September (stores taking orders now) instead or the new Oly micro 4/3 "rangefinder" (no release date).

N

I don't know too much about the P6000, but I'm sure it will probably be a fine choice. I did glance at some info about the P6000 this weekend, and it does only have a 2.7" monitor, as oppossed to the 3" monitor on the G9, but I don't know if that's enough to be a deal breaker for everyone.

I'm pretty picky about certain features I need on a camera. One is the largest and highest resolution moniter available, because I started off shooting a Sony with a 3" high resolution screen, so I can't see myself going with a smaller one at this point.

I also need a good battery duration on the camera, because I hate having to open my housing more often that absolutely needed on a small wet rocking boat.

I also need the camera to have a housing that is sold for it that has at least a 300 ft depth rating, because I am trimix certified and I do dive the deeper wrecks in this area.

Adrian
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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