is anyone using this housing?
Epoque | ERX-C1010 Underwater Housing for Canon EOS | ERX-C1010
what do you think?
Epoque | ERX-C1010 Underwater Housing for Canon EOS | ERX-C1010
what do you think?
Has anyone used epoque housing for canon 1000D?
- Thread starter David Bali
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Hi there David,
I just purchased the Epoque Housing for the 500D. My LDS had three units, for the 1000D, 450D and the 500D. I have not got my unit wet yet, but the guy who runs the shop took the one with the 450D to Lembeh and said he was very impressed with the unit. Apart from the ease of use and the small size, all the buttons worked fantastically well and he was also enthusing about the fact that when his strobes died, he was able to peel off the duct tape he had used to mask the diffuser and continue to shoot using the built in flash and take pictures of gobies. He showed me the pictures and they were pretty good, considering the light source. So, based on his recommendation, I have bought the X3 model for the 500D and the M100 port, which will take the 18-55 kit lens, the 60 and 100mm lenses for macro. Will be getting it wet probably in early November. :cool2:
I just purchased the Epoque Housing for the 500D. My LDS had three units, for the 1000D, 450D and the 500D. I have not got my unit wet yet, but the guy who runs the shop took the one with the 450D to Lembeh and said he was very impressed with the unit. Apart from the ease of use and the small size, all the buttons worked fantastically well and he was also enthusing about the fact that when his strobes died, he was able to peel off the duct tape he had used to mask the diffuser and continue to shoot using the built in flash and take pictures of gobies. He showed me the pictures and they were pretty good, considering the light source. So, based on his recommendation, I have bought the X3 model for the 500D and the M100 port, which will take the 18-55 kit lens, the 60 and 100mm lenses for macro. Will be getting it wet probably in early November. :cool2:
OP
Halo sohib arun:
Thanks a lot for this input, and from the articles from UWP I am now confident that I have made a wise choice. The housing has just arrived in Taiwan and I will get it at the end of november. Awesome! can't wait to try it out...
After reading UWP49 I am also please to find out that the tokina 10-17 fe fits in the 170 dome port, as now I will be able to use this combination instead of the 200dome port which not only limits to efs 10-22mm and no fish eye and the port cost more than the housing!
it was also mention that the zoom gear for the 18-55mm is able to use in the tokina 10-17 fe with some amendment but fail to mention what sort of amendment. do you have any idea and shed some light on this? much appreciated.....
Thanks a lot for this input, and from the articles from UWP I am now confident that I have made a wise choice. The housing has just arrived in Taiwan and I will get it at the end of november. Awesome! can't wait to try it out...
After reading UWP49 I am also please to find out that the tokina 10-17 fe fits in the 170 dome port, as now I will be able to use this combination instead of the 200dome port which not only limits to efs 10-22mm and no fish eye and the port cost more than the housing!
it was also mention that the zoom gear for the 18-55mm is able to use in the tokina 10-17 fe with some amendment but fail to mention what sort of amendment. do you have any idea and shed some light on this? much appreciated.....
OP
Correction, its the focus gear of 60mm macro that he used. being a bit bigger than the tokina lens he fitted a flipflop rubber underneath the gear
Ah...that makes sense I suppose. I have the focus gear for the 60mm but I have yet to buy the Tokina. I am afraid that after spending RM 10K this year, my wife will divorce me if I were to spend another RM 6K on the Tokina, the Dome Port 200 and its related bits and bobs. That will have to wait for another year.
I have been quite impressed with the housing. Seems so well built that you would not imagine it is ABS. Not as heavy either as most other DSLR housing and just a little bigger than my G9 Ike housing. I just have to know learn to use the DSLR and figure out how to mount the FO cables.
I have been quite impressed with the housing. Seems so well built that you would not imagine it is ABS. Not as heavy either as most other DSLR housing and just a little bigger than my G9 Ike housing. I just have to know learn to use the DSLR and figure out how to mount the FO cables.
OP
Hi Arun:
Hey..hey..same here.., she just dont get it why i need so many lenses
but a little consolation, its the dome port 170 you need for the tokina, not the 200
the housing has just arrive at my vendor, waiting for a friend to bring it over
the anticipation is killing me!!!
Hey..hey..same here.., she just dont get it why i need so many lenses
but a little consolation, its the dome port 170 you need for the tokina, not the 200
the housing has just arrive at my vendor, waiting for a friend to bring it over
the anticipation is killing me!!!
OP
Hi y'al
just want to update my take on this housing
I had the chance to use this kit for 6 diving days straight, and overall i am more then satisfied
You can see the results in my gallery: ScubaBoard Gallery -
few things worth noting:
1. On day 4 I had the unfortunate chance of finding water in my housing! not very much, not even enough to trigger the leak detector I installed 2 days earlier. Water was found after a strong current dive. Our collective conclusion was: a) the one side of the rear door was supported by a hinge, and somehow I think was already misaligned before the dive, this combined with some sand after placing the housing on a seat which had some sand on it. All this combined with strone current had forced some water into the housing
2. Extra care is needed when you closed the latch on the side of the housing, because the latch if partly caught will leave an ugly dent on top and will be disasterous. The side latch was built like a P & S housing such as the early sony housings probably due to Epoque's many experience in smaller housings. In my opinion they should have gone with the regular metal latches like most othe slr housings. This way it will also eliminate the need for a hinge
3. Standard port was excellent! if you are starting out like me which means without extra dough to buy a dome port and a tokina fe lens, you will find yourself suficiently entertained between the kit lens (18-55mm) and the 60mm macro. No need to change the port between dives, just change your slr and in it goes. Besides being not wide enough, the kit lens will not focus when you place the subject too close
4. On macro dives I was only able to dial to f14, I think 2x S & S 110a like what I have was sufficient enough to support this kit. Any higher gets too dark. I have 1/100 and also ISO 200. Anyone has any thoughts on this? btw the s n s was set to ttl (manual setting dont work for some reason)
5. The mode dial was not calibered properly. You had to push it foward while turing. To prevent snapping the dial or cause it to leak in the long run, I think dial the mode before you close the housing would be a wiser choice. I use munual exclusively so no problems here.
6. Sometime I forgot to push the on off dial up before I try to take out the slr, I guess I'll have to get use to this
just want to update my take on this housing
I had the chance to use this kit for 6 diving days straight, and overall i am more then satisfied
You can see the results in my gallery: ScubaBoard Gallery -
few things worth noting:
1. On day 4 I had the unfortunate chance of finding water in my housing! not very much, not even enough to trigger the leak detector I installed 2 days earlier. Water was found after a strong current dive. Our collective conclusion was: a) the one side of the rear door was supported by a hinge, and somehow I think was already misaligned before the dive, this combined with some sand after placing the housing on a seat which had some sand on it. All this combined with strone current had forced some water into the housing
2. Extra care is needed when you closed the latch on the side of the housing, because the latch if partly caught will leave an ugly dent on top and will be disasterous. The side latch was built like a P & S housing such as the early sony housings probably due to Epoque's many experience in smaller housings. In my opinion they should have gone with the regular metal latches like most othe slr housings. This way it will also eliminate the need for a hinge
3. Standard port was excellent! if you are starting out like me which means without extra dough to buy a dome port and a tokina fe lens, you will find yourself suficiently entertained between the kit lens (18-55mm) and the 60mm macro. No need to change the port between dives, just change your slr and in it goes. Besides being not wide enough, the kit lens will not focus when you place the subject too close
4. On macro dives I was only able to dial to f14, I think 2x S & S 110a like what I have was sufficient enough to support this kit. Any higher gets too dark. I have 1/100 and also ISO 200. Anyone has any thoughts on this? btw the s n s was set to ttl (manual setting dont work for some reason)
5. The mode dial was not calibered properly. You had to push it foward while turing. To prevent snapping the dial or cause it to leak in the long run, I think dial the mode before you close the housing would be a wiser choice. I use munual exclusively so no problems here.
6. Sometime I forgot to push the on off dial up before I try to take out the slr, I guess I'll have to get use to this
Last edited:
OP
Hi Arun: How's your kit? took it down yet? as regards to mounting FO cable, first take off the opaque plastic over the pop up window, then I use a rubber thats a bit oversized but take care not to cover the port ring, and holes on the screw poles and use the original screws again there. in the middle I poke 2 small holes for the FO cable to go through (it helps to thicken the part where the FO goes through so it won't pull off so easily, maybe glue another small piece over the FO part and when glue dried poke the holes all the way through)
this worked pretty well for me so far
Reefwalker
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Hi David
I see on your posting that you are finding there is not enough power from x2 SS110a strobes in macro.
Something seriously wrong there! You should be able to use F22 and still be nowhere near full power. I'd suggest that the camera is putting out a pre-flash, which is triggering the S+S strobes before the actual exposure, so when the exposure does take place, the strobes haven't fully charged from the pre-flash.
This is a common problem I encounter with DSLR's using fibre optic triggering.
Try turning the strobes to Manual 1, Also the Slave Switch needs to be ON. Then control the flash output with the power dial. Start about midway and then fine tune your exposure with the power dial, leave the camera on Manual at 1/160th @F22 for macro.
If Manual 1 gives underexposed images, then try Manual 2 - I can't remember out of my head which Mode (1 or 2) ignores pre-flash!
Hope this helps.
I see on your posting that you are finding there is not enough power from x2 SS110a strobes in macro.
Something seriously wrong there! You should be able to use F22 and still be nowhere near full power. I'd suggest that the camera is putting out a pre-flash, which is triggering the S+S strobes before the actual exposure, so when the exposure does take place, the strobes haven't fully charged from the pre-flash.
This is a common problem I encounter with DSLR's using fibre optic triggering.
Try turning the strobes to Manual 1, Also the Slave Switch needs to be ON. Then control the flash output with the power dial. Start about midway and then fine tune your exposure with the power dial, leave the camera on Manual at 1/160th @F22 for macro.
If Manual 1 gives underexposed images, then try Manual 2 - I can't remember out of my head which Mode (1 or 2) ignores pre-flash!
Hope this helps.
Hi, David. No, I haven't. I am going to Manado December 29th to January 2nd. I am pretty excited about going. On the FO cables, thanks for the input. I have already bought the Inon dual fo mount, which I will attach to the diffuser, after blacking it out with duct tape. Cost me about USD 100.00 but works great.
Must say though, I experienced a nasty jolt in my stomach when I read of your water ingress. Also, I am surprised that you can't go better than F14, given that 2 S&S strobes put out a lot of light. Do let me know your further experiences. Safe diving, dude.
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