Has anyone made their own weight harness?

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Mitchell Teeters

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I'm an OEM for weapon slings so I have access to the nylon. I'm needing the pass thru cross piece between the shoulder blade. Anybody have an idea? I've looked on line but I guess I'm using the wrong query phrase.

I thought I would edit: the reason I want to make my own harness is that I already have the majority of the pouches. It would be a total waste of time and $$ to buy a harness when I just need to transfer the pockets from the dive harness to the weight harness.
 
I have made harnesses using either weight belt webbing or seatbelt webbing, round or D rings and pop rivets. It is not going to win any beauty contests but it works as well as anything you can buy on the market today. Never made a weight harness but the principal is the same.
 
How do you plan on releasing the weights?

I would put a cross on the back, then over the shoulder, and around the waist with a buckle. Adjust the cross in back higher and lower depending on shoulder width. Also location of the straps to the belt. I take it you have an industrial sewing machine? Hammered rivets would look cool too though.

Personally having owned a DUI harness, I much prefer my weight belt which fortunately doesn't fall off my body. For many folks something custom fit to their body that didn't fall off the shoulders might be a nice solution to a weight belt that keeps falling off.
 
Peter, releasing the weights would be like I have now. XS quick release pockets, pull the tab and they drop. Attaching the shoulder straps to the belt would be via this device and a split ring.
Weight-Belt-Pocket-Holding-Clip11652-4692.jpg
These are plenty strong, and using a plastic clip attached to the shoulder suspenders these can be located where ever you want. The rest is easy.
 
I use those plastic clips all the time for holding weight belt pockets in place, and can lights from sliding back too far. They do break easily, and not something I would trust for much of anything more than what I described. The webbing should be sewn or riveted.

The idea of dropping weights to me is one that should only be done at the surface (Unless one is going unconscious) and not something I would want to happen on accident. We have recovered many clipped in weight pockets, and even more weight belts from free divers. I am not familiar with the XS pockets, but as long as they are secure then they should work fine.
 
Peter, I can barely manipulate the clips, how do they break? I thought I would use the clip as the mounting point for the split ring then attach a clip. I guess I would need to loop the suspender then. The thing I need to find is the hardware for the "X" between the shoulder blades.
 
Peter, I can barely manipulate the clips, how do they break?
I have broken a few when removing them or trying to manipulate them in some form or another. They actually break fairly easily. Plastic is not using a good thing to rely upon for weight setups. We use stainless buckles, and stainless d-rings with stainless keepers, but I back it up with one of the plastic deals. The d-ring on the weight belt is to clip it off before removing it in the water so it doesn't get dropped accidently.

I guess I would need to loop the suspender then. The thing I need to find is the hardware for the "X" between the shoulder blades.
Sew it! If you don't have an industrial machine, just get a decent sized needle, some strong nylon thread, and a thimble. Sewing is not hard, and you could watch a few youtube videos if you need instruction.
 
Well heck, I found this in my weight bag search. I swear I'm going to get nickled and dimed to death. $16.95. For the time and effort this is the best buy IMHO.
INS25103-2T.jpg
 
For the cross piece in the back, why not just use a wide triglide? Say you're using 1 inch webbing you could use a 1 1/2 or 2 inch triglide and it would work just fine and be adjustable.
 
Try attaching the pockets upside down then you can open the pockets so the weights can fall out.
 

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