Hardest question of all

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gator4798:
Ok i'll come right out and say it. Im trying to convince dear old dad to get a boat for diving. I want reccomdations. A boat (under 60,000 when bought) that is/can be converted to be a good dive boat for near shore opperations. small cuddy cabins are nice to....I saw this one http://www.bostonwhaler.com/Rec/buildwhaler/step2_1.asp?action=new&boatid=19 and like it. Any suggestions?

Hi. My opinion is to go for a seadoo jetboat, its easy to operate and maintain and can be used for diving, with large storage space for all your gear and more. Its cheaper than getting a dive boat. There fast and reliable boats that go to very high speeds (250 HP Mercury M2 Jet Drive). Another advantage is that if you get a jetboat you can anchor your boat in half a metre or less of water due to the high powered jet pumps, unlike a boat propellor that needs about 2-4 m of water below, Try http://www.seadoo.com

Farid
 
"experienced would have sunk a "Bayliner type boat"? Ha ha - that is plain nonsense. "

LOL, whatever, they would have sunk because we had water to my gunwales ourselves and unless that inboard /outboard engine has a snorkel I don't think it would keep running long and since they barely have enough floatation to stay somewhere near the surface or in the vicintiy there about I am pretty sure had I been in a Bayliner I would have deep sixed. Cannot be sure since the only other small boats out were other Whalers and other even higher dollar boats yet. The Bayliners I have looked at had the top deck/liner plate attached to the hull with what appeared to be lag screws, I sure hope that has been improoved upon.
A boat does not have to be a dive boat to use it for diving. It does not need a walk through side and all that. One thing you left out is the need to trailer and whether you wish to use it mostly in one area or trailer it to various places. If so then don't get a boat to large to comfortably pull. I always wanted a old shrimp boat but I don't think I can pull one behind my Toyota. N
 
Nemrod:
"experienced would have sunk a "Bayliner type boat"? Ha ha - that is plain nonsense. "

LOL, whatever, they would have sunk because we had water to my gunwales ourselves and unless that inboard /outboard engine has a snorkel I don't think it would keep running long and since they barely have enough floatation to stay somewhere near the surface or in the vicintiy there about I am pretty sure had I been in a Bayliner I would have deep sixed. Cannot be sure since the only other small boats out were other Whalers and other even higher dollar boats yet. The Bayliners I have looked at had the top deck/liner plate attached to the hull with what appeared to be lag screws, I sure hope that has been improoved upon.
A boat does not have to be a dive boat to use it for diving. It does not need a walk through side and all that. One thing you left out is the need to trailer and whether you wish to use it mostly in one area or trailer it to various places. If so then don't get a boat to large to comfortably pull. I always wanted a old shrimp boat but I don't think I can pull one behind my Toyota. N

As a recreational captain I am always interested to hear about others experiences. I trust you were not out enjoying a day of diving, with a good marine forecast, weather and CG channel monitoring, and no environmental signs of rough weather only to be surprised by a Tsunami :wink: It sounds like you were deliberately in rough weather with wind/waves structured such that they were over the top (bow/stern/gunwales).

I prefer the tow option as well. I like being able to transport the boat to a new area for a weekend for example. You can't beat it for maintenance or accessory installation either. Unless I had absurd money laying around I would not even want something larger than about 23' so I could continue to tow the boat with a regular sized vehicle. I tow my rigs with a Toyota but it's small enough where I can use it to commute to work. If you had a 7500lb boat for example you would need a serious tow vehicle which would not be econmical to drive to work.

--Matt
 
lets start by saying i don't own a boat now but would like to get one this year being new to diving and all, make it a family thing.
i was thinking along the line of the new key west 186.
looks good to me but what do i know (nothing) but i have been on the water alot seen all sorts of boats in all kind of weather after all we do live in florida but they were all floating not sinking i think if a certain kind of boat sank just cause you got caught in some bad weather you would here about it.
i would think if a company wanted to make a junky boat fine
but it would have to atleast float good to sell it to the public
there some crazy people out there.

p.s. if anyone has any good or bad info on the key west 186 let me know please would like some feed back from someone besides salesman thanks.
 
Diver 11, what you say is not exactly correct. In any case what we have here is a long standing feud that exists on multiple boards over several years--not just here-- between Whaler owners and Bayliner owners. The two will never come to terms and this will never be settled here on any board. Bayliner owners has their priorities which are price oriented and Whaler owners have their priorities more towards safety, durability and resale. Check the resale figures--I did. The fact is that a Whaler and certain other small boats have the ability to free themselves of water--even after capsized (but not flipped) and some other common boat brands do not. There are also issues with construction methods. For example, a Whaler is essentially a chunk of styrofoam with a fiberglass shell. The liner, deck, hull are fused together as one piece and are permenately bonded and then filled with the foam while still in the mold. This requires the boat to remain in the mold while the foam cures which slows down and reduces prodcution. It is one reasaon why Whalers cost more. The entire hull--every inch of it is filled with foam right up to the top of the gunwales--this makes a rigid--strong--flex free--unsinkable boat. Whaler is the only boat maker that does this exactly this way and provides the swamped capacity numbers like they do. Do some research. There are other good boats out there, those are as expensive as a Whaler or more so because the kinda quality and durability we are talking about is not cheap to build in at the limited prodcution volumes of small boats. Boats do sink--and capsize in Fla. as well.
That said, there is nothing wrong with getting an old boat or a cheaper boat or whatever, just be aware--all boats really are not created equal so shop wisely. If I did not have to trailer or have an interest in visiting places from the Great lakes to Calif to Key West I would have gotten a much bigger boat, keep it in a slip, maybe that old commercial fishing/shrimp boat or such as that--something to throw good money away into. N
 
Nemrod, the foam in whalers is not poured while in the mold. The hull and the top part
(called the "turtle") are molded. Before the last layer is fully set, they are popped out
of the mold, glued and clamped together, hung by the bow, and the foam poured in.
Not a cheap process, but not done in the mold.

The foam is a structural part of the hull.

And I think Whaler's patent has run out, so there may be some others using the
process now. But certainly not Bayliner.
 
Chuck, I was just going by there website and the phone cals I made to them while researching the prodcut. If I am wrong I am glad you pointed it out--in any case it is a challenging way to build a boat and a Bayliner is not built this way.
craftsmanship behind it are a bit more sophisticated.

From the Whaler site----

""Marine architects, ergonomic engineers and designers use the most advanced computer-aided design system in the marine industry to create a three-dimensional image of an ideal boat. A 5-axis digital router turns that electronic image into an absolutely precise pattern which is perfectly symmetrical from side to side (something ordinary, hand-carved patterns can never attain). Prototypes are built and tested. And tested again. Then Whaler’s exclusive, unsinkable Unibond process begins.

Unibond construction starts with a set of steel-reinforced molds. These molds hold their shape precisely, unlike ordinary wood-framed molds which can flex by several inches, changing the performance characteristics of the boat.

Whaler’s precision molds are polished to a high gloss, then sprayed with gelcoat for a flawless finish. Fiberglass and resin – including hand-laid woven fiberglass material, bi-directional and tri-directional mat – are applied in an exact ratio for optimum strength.

(***NOTE THIS PARA---N) The outer and inner hull molds are laid up simultaneously. The inner mold is lowered into the outer mold and they are locked together. A liquid polymer is introduced between the two pieces and it expands into a dense, closed-cell urethane foam that fills the space between the inner and outer hull molds, bonding the halves to form a single, solid, unsinkable unit. (******note that they say--not me--that the foam is injected into the boat while in the molds)

When swamped, other boats may stay above the water, but only partially. Many float perpendicularly, with their stern down and just the point of the bow sticking up.

A Whaler’s level flotation is truly level. Even if it’s swamped and drastically overloaded. Whalers have up to two-and-a-half times more foam than is required to meet Coast Guard standards. Every bit of space in our Unibond™ hull is filled with closed-cell foam providing strength, sound and vibration absorption and, of course, flotation. Whalers float level because the foam is positioned in the hull right up to the gunnels, so a swamped Whaler provides a protective ring around its passengers.

The self-bailing design of Whaler hulls is intended to keep the engine’s powerhead above the water, so you can actually keep moving and get into port if the boat is swamped by rain or waves. Although Coast Guard regulations only require flotation for boats 20 feet and under in length, every single Whaler has full, level flotation.

The results are amazing. A thirteen-foot Whaler will support 1,600 pounds of people, power and gear when it’s completely swamped. A seventeen-footer will support a Volkswagen. The 240 Outrage supports over four tons. That equates to 50 or so 150-pound people and 500 pounds of tackle, gear or groceries.""

OK, that is what they said as the above is a quote from the Whaler Web Site and not something I was told by someone somewhere maybe could be possibly. What I think then happens is that the boat--after curing for a while--is removed from the mold and hung from the bow or whatever--I think is how it goes--while the cure completes. Maybe they don't know how they build their own boats. N
 
With a BW you can cut chunk out of the side for easy entry/exit!

i love the demo they did where they cut one of the smaller whalers in half with a person in each half!
 
After dealing with boats for most of my 44 years I can tell you that they are all expensive reguardless of brand. Like anything else, do your homework. Sit down and figure out what you will really use it for and more importantly, will you really use it. I see alot of really nice boats that almost never leave the driveway. I don't know about you, but its hard for me to justify having tens of thousands of dollars sitting around unused. My boat is an old Searay. I have alot of sweat equity in it. I logged thirty + dives out of it this year as well as many fishing trips and grid pattern searches for new dive sites. I would have used it much more had it not rained every bloody day from April to mid June. If you use it like that, its worth the investment. Otherwise you can charter a heck of alot of dives for $10,000 to $30,000 dollars. And then you don't have to worry about maintance. Just my 2 cents.

Jim
 
Yes, but you can also use a trailerable dive boat for water sking, fishing, camping, family time, exploring and all that in addition to diving. N
 

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