Halcyon Explorer placement?

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That sounds like it comes from some Fundies Instructor trying to make crap up to make it seem like they know what they are talking about.

Yup, along other things, Chris and Danny are both Fundies instructors.


It actually happened to me once on my old 10W DR light. I haven't had a problem putting my Salvo switch on the "inside". Gloves, no gloves it works the same. Neither has a big ol' H on them like Mike's light tho.
 
Seems to be a bit of a skills issue here. My recommendation is to get in more practice with your 7 iron. You do not want a critical piece of equipment flopping about. Snug against your plate. Switch is on the inside to better protect it. You are only moving it in an inch or so by turning it to the inside so I can't see how this is a mobility issue. Just practice.
 
That sounds like it comes from some Fundies Instructor trying to make crap up to make it seem like they know what they are talking about.

You guys are all soft because you started out with well built gear. The older can lights didn't have nice switch protectors and this happened a lot more often.
 
You guys are all soft because you started out with well built gear. The older can lights didn't have nice switch protectors and this happened a lot more often.

Yeah yeah and you didn't have any decent gloves for the Great Lakes either, right Grandpa :lotsalove:
 
I have a better solution for that. If the dive requires gloves for warmth, I don't do it anymore.
 
Seems to be a bit of a skills issue here. My recommendation is to get in more practice with your 7 iron. You do not want a critical piece of equipment flopping about. Snug against your plate. Switch is on the inside to better protect it. You are only moving it in an inch or so by turning it to the inside so I can't see how this is a mobility issue. Just practice.

When the CAN is placed all the way to the back of the plate and then secured by a steel buckle, no amount of wiggling will invert the CAN forward for access to switch.

I tried on 6 different dives while I worked with bouyancy.

It simply will not budge, I need to release the buckle an inch forward at most to give the unit the ability to tilt and move. This should allow me to manuever my hand just above the switch and turn it off/on.

I did however move my Scout to the other strap on the left side since I didn't like it making contact with the CAN light.

On the other side it is free of disturbing anything at all, even doesn't touch my Argon bottle.

MG
 
I have the same light and place it a few inches from the backplate secured by a steel buckle so it is approximately under my shoulder. It doesn't flop or otherwise move around at all. There's no need to jamb it up against the backplate. If you have trouble finding the lid/switch, just trace the cord from the lighthead and you'll end up right on the switch.
 
I'm with you, Mike. If my canister is back against the plate, I can't reach the switch (but I can reach my valves!) I just put a triglide on the harness about 2" from the plate. I slide the canister on until it stops at that triglide, and then put the buckle on to hold it in place. No twisting, no instability, and I can turn it on and off myself.
 
Same as everyone else, I leave a couple inches between the BP and the can light. I dive switch inside, just cause that's the way I roll.

Tom
 
I'm with you, Mike. If my canister is back against the plate, I can't reach the switch (but I can reach my valves!) I just put a triglide on the harness about 2" from the plate. I slide the canister on until it stops at that triglide, and then put the buckle on to hold it in place. No twisting, no instability, and I can turn it on and off myself.

I really like that concept of the triglide and will pick one up today. I will then place it about 2 inches from the backplate then attach my CAN followed by my buckle.

I don't want the CAN shifting on me and your setup sounds optimal to me... :D

Thanks,,,

MG
 
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