Halcyon Explorer placement?

[mikeguerrero]

Hi all,

I dove my light today, the Explorer 9/21 watt HID. I rigged it on my right side belt and slid it all the way to the back, then I placed a steel buckle to secure it.

It went in perfect and didn't move at all very stable as I entered the water to practice my descent and new shift in weight.

As I descend I go to turn on my light I couldn't reach the darn switch no matter how hard I try.

I could easily feel the bottom of the CAN and thought if the switch was here, I would have no problem at all.

I know the light cannot be inverted as this defeats the bottom CAN protecting from sudden water entering the base, keeping the unit above water.

If I loosen the buckle to slide it forward I will have play, is that okay? Does it matter that the CAN will move forward and backward? I thought it must stay stationary.

Can anyone shed some light on the proper placement? I know a lot of divers will differ since some have longer arms than others, but what is the consensus?

Thanks,

MG

 

[rjack321]

Why would the canister need to be tight up against the backplate? Ergo, you are making life difficult for no purpose. Just loosen the buckle about 3/4" or a little more and allow the canister to twist on the harness a bit.

 

[Cave Diver]

I sometimes dive with my can a little loose against the BP, dont really see this as being an issue.

You could also loosen the buckle, slide the light forward to reach the switch then move it back and resecure during the dive if necessary.

You might consider the orientation of the cord/switch as well. I prefer to put my lid on so that the cord is to the inside near my body and the switch is on the outside. If I have problems finding the switch, you can always trace the cord to help locate/reach it.

I've seen others that dive with the switch on the inside, but I can't say that I've ever seen a set standard for which way it should be.

 

[mikeguerrero]

Guys,

Thanks for your response, I figured I could reach it all the way back there tucked away, I was wrong.

I don't mind moving the buckle forward so I can turn it off/on, just didn't know how much to give it play?

I figured the light can should stay stationary, I didn't know?

When you guys refer to the switch being on the outside vs inside, what do you mean? My switch has a barrier on it and makes it hard for it to be bumped off/on, I need to really work my finger to the switch and move it, it's hard with thick gloves but can be done.

MG

 

[rjack321]

You might consider the orientation of the cord/switch as well. I prefer to put my lid on so that the cord is to the inside near my body and the switch is on the outside. If I have problems finding the switch, you can always trace the cord to help locate/reach it.

I've seen others that dive with the switch on the inside, but I can't say that I've ever seen a set standard for which way it should be.

The "DIR cave" way de jour is to have the switch on the inside.
1) some lights have a switch boot that is separate from the cord gland which can serve as a line trap.
2) a backup light on the harness tends to push the switch <back> and on vs. back and off.

 

[rjack321]

When you guys refer to the switch being on the outside vs inside, what do you mean? My switch has a barrier on it and makes it hard for it to be bumped off/on, I need to really work my finger to the switch and move it, it's hard with thick gloves but can be done.

The edge of a backup light can sometimes (rarely but it can happen) get into the plastic around the switch and bump it. If the cave is so tight that those bumps are happening you want it to be bumping on not off. Cause you might not be able to contort your arm back there and reach the switch easily.

 

[nadwidny]

The "DIR cave" way de jour is to have the switch on the inside.

All the DIR cave guys dive without gloves in warm-ish water. I tried it their way. I went back to what works in cold water with gloves (switch outside, buckle facing out).

1) some lights have a switch boot that is separate from the cord gland which can serve as a line trap.

I suppose.

2) a backup light on the harness tends to push the switch <back> and on vs. back and off.

That sounds like it comes from some Fundies Instructor trying to make crap up to make it seem like they know what they are talking about.

 

[Cave Diver]

The "DIR cave" way de jour is to have the switch on the inside.
1) some lights have a switch boot that is separate from the cord gland which can serve as a line trap.
2) a backup light on the harness tends to push the switch <back> and on vs. back and off.

My switch goes <left> <right>

Line trap, hmmm I'll have to keep that one in mind...

 

[coldsmoke]

I have a DIY lid so take it for what it's worth - I keep my switch inside and I keep the buckle a little loose. The reason for both is because there is no switch guard. If it faces out then it is more likely to get bumped and turned off, if I keep it tight against the plate then my backup light turns it off. I suppose I could flip the switch around, but it doesn't leak now so I don't want to mess with it.

Hunter

 

[BabyDuck]

i've had a backup light turn my can light off before...

so i moved it for the next few dives to inside a pocket, then got a shorter back up for that side.

(this is not a dir response, just a real-life happening for group knowledge.)