GoPro HD Hero 3 black with Subsee +10 diopter

[EL Pistoffo]

Maybe 3-4 inches (SRP site says 2-4). I kept it on on wide angle mode too 1080 -60 frames but I think I see some vignetting (overall not bad though, given gopros have limited close up/macro capability). I wish it was threaded though so you could experiment by adding more filters). I like this glass macro filter better than the acrylic ones.

3-4 inches is pretty good. I can only get to 5.5 inches with two +10 stacked. It may be worth getting. I'm about to experiment with a +20 and +10 stacked to see what I get but having a single lens is much easier to deal with.
As far as vignetting, I always try to go with Narrow FOV. As I'm setup right now, i'm using 58mm lenses. That extra width gives me no vignetting even while on Wide FOV. I may stick with getting a Marumi 58mm +10 and try combining it with others.

 

[Trigger-F]

I think it sells for around $55; with the Blurfix3 Naked adapter, that's another $40, but you can use it to mount the red filter too. I think it's well worth the $. Not sure if there's a threaded red filter out there (you can always mount the Marumi on top of the red filter. In theory it should work.

 

[EL Pistoffo]

I have the Blur fix and the CYD filter installed into a 55 mm ring. If I go with the Marumi 55mm macro I could stack them but I have twin lights on my tray so that wouldn't be necessary. Plus I also have the an array of 58mm macros of all kinds. Thats why I will probably get the Marumi macro in 58mm so can use it in conjunction with all my other macro lenses.

 

[Trigger-F]

I have twin lights too (FIX 1000 + FIX 500 from my old dslr days) but I find the red filter + lights combo works better than no lights. I just placed an order for a promaster 55mm double threaded red filter(it was only $7.99 used on ebay), so will mount the red filter first and the marumi on top and see what happens. What lights do you have?

Marumi should've made the Macro + 10 filter double threaded so people can stack additional macro lenses on top (to experiment). That's the only drawback of that macro lens.

 

[EL Pistoffo]

I have 2 Archon D11V's. The Same lights SRP now offers. Lights and red filter sometimes work IMO. Lighting distant objects while red filter on looks good. Lighting objects that are very close looks to red.

Your right about the lack of threading on the Marumi. I've seen a few other macro lenses built the same. If the Marumi lens can be removed, the lens could be placed into another ring with threading like I did with my CYD red filter. I know that SRP's version of the Marumi +10 is ground down to lower the profile to avoid vignetting. That would probably render any thread useless anyways. Since I prefer Narrow FOV when using macros, I get no vignetting anyways.

As I've already mentioned, I have a crap load of 58mm Macro lenses. I'm going to start trying different combinations of them. If they don't give me the sufficient results, I will go for the Marumi. 3-4 inch distance would work quite well.

 

[Trigger-F]

Well, you can judge from the videos how close I get. I'd say 3-4 inches would be the closest I got to that nudibranch. Me too, I mostly shoot in narrow mode due to the visibility up here. I think shooting with sunlight ahead of you makes subjects more orange/yellowish, so I try to judge from the viewfinder (if colors are not realistic, I try to move around or take multiple video clips, then choose the best in post processing). But it could be the camera's Auto white balance? Note the flounder clip on my videos; in the beginning it looks yellowish/orange and after a while the colors popped up. Not sure what happened there.

What's the best time of year/day to dive the Blue Heron bridge? Lots of creatures there..

 

[EL Pistoffo]

Well, you can judge from the videos how close I get. I'd say 3-4 inches would be the closest I got to that nudibranch. Me too, I mostly shoot in narrow mode due to the visibility up here. I think shooting with sunlight ahead of you makes subjects more orange/yellowish, so I try to judge from the viewfinder (if colors are not realistic, I try to move around or take multiple video clips, then choose the best in post processing). But it could be the camera's Auto white balance? Note the flounder clip on my videos; in the beginning it looks yellowish/orange and after a while the colors popped up. Not sure what happened there.

What's the best time of year/day to dive the Blue Heron bridge? Lots of creatures there..

The Blue Heron Bridge is regarded as the Muck diving spot of the West. It has to be dived/dove during high tide when the clear water rolls in otherwise visibility is useless. Here is the tide chart: Blue Heron Bridge High Tides

I'm terrible at spotting critters but I'm going to dedicate my next dive there to macro filming. I always see a bunch of photographers all over the site.

The strange colors popping in and out are a result of the GoPros Auto WB. That is why many like myself use Raw WB to avoid that issue.

 

[Trigger-F]

That's what I suspected. Thanks for the tip (and the link). Need to try Raw WB next time.

Haven't done Blue Heron Bridge but always wanted to. I usually go as low as possible, slow down and look closely.

 

[OcciferNick]

I had the same problems with auto white balance. I only shoot raw now and adjust the colour if necessary in post. Just remember that when shooting in raw that you film something white like a tank or a dive slate at the beginning so when you are doing the post you can set the white balance using the tank or slate. When shooting macro I use narrow.

 

[Trigger-F]

I had the same problems with auto white balance. I only shoot raw now and adjust the colour if necessary in post. Just remember that when shooting in raw that you film something white like a tank or a dive slate at the beginning so when you are doing the post you can set the white balance using the tank or slate. When shooting macro I use narrow.

I tried Cam Raw and even though there was barely any color when viewed on the LCD screen, after vid clips were opened with GP Studio, it was easier to adjust. So, I will aim for that in the future. See results below (toadfish was shot in raw mode); the slightly green hues are because at times I was shooting with a magenta filter + auto white balance (I think using the red filter is better despite the low vis/green water at this site).

Will also try filming a white piece (dive slate/towel etc..) before I go out next time. I used to do that with my dslr (stills) but completely forgot (been a while). Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2QuMrJ8VZs