Catgirldiver,
Here is the scoop from July 15-22, 2004.
Fly to Cancun.
Fill out paperwork on the airplane.
Go through the airport to Imigration, show passport
Go get your Bags at Baggage Claim
Show Claim Tickets to leave roped off area with bags.
Head toward Customs / Exit.
Ignore dozens trying to sell you transportation.
Off to your right will be a counter for Transportation.
(They will try to sell you taxis service, tours etc.)
Head to the one with a sign that says Rivera.
Tell them you want the Rivera bus to Playa (Del Carmen)
It was $7 each on Thursday July 15th. (12 days ago)
[it was $8 in June 03, the exchange rate is different now.]
Take your ticket(s) and head out through Customs. You will stop at a Traffic Light in the terminal. You press a button and either the green light comes on and you go through, or the red light comes on, and you get Inspected, detected, Neglected etc etc.
Exit the airport through an amazing gauntlet of hundreds trying to sell you transportation. If your Rivera ticket is visible, you will not get near as many pestering you.
Take a deep breath because it will be hot outside.
Go through the crowd and head to the right, pass the main entrance of the airport. You will start noticing that it is hot. You are looking for the big Red Rivera buses all the way at the end of the walkway.
(You could take a shuttle van for a lot more money if you want to. They may haggle. It might be cheaper for a group, but I doubt it)
If you are having trouble locating the buses, ask anyone with a badge / nametag, and they will point it out.
If you look like you are struggling or you look like you have money someone in a Red shirt may come over to offer to help you with your bags. My buddy and I each had two rolling bags, and the guy took the heavy one from each of us and hustled them over to the bus. Two bucks well spent in that heat.
Find the bus driver, confirm the bus is going to Playa, and he will put your bags in the compartment under the bus. Get on the bus, staying on the passenger side if you want to keep an eye on who or what comes and goes from that side of the bus. The buses leave at quarter til the hour. (they may run more often, but that is the time I have always found them to leave at) Settle in for a 45 ride to Playa Del Carmen. The bus is comfortable and well air-conditioned. No pigs or chickens or anything, a real bus. There will most likely be a video playing during the trip, but it will be subtitled or dubbed in Spanish, and the trip is not long enough to see the whole thing.
The trip will mostly be about 50 mph on a nice road. When you approach Playa Del Carmen, the bus will enter small city streets, and slowly work it's way to the bus depot.
At the bus depot, you will exit the bus and collect your bags from the side compartment.
You need to go two blocks to the Ferry Pier. There are usually some guys with bicycles with big baskets that can haul your bags for a few dollars, or you can walk. Follow the tourist shops or ask directions if you are not sure. It is over about one block and down about one block (downhill). It is not hard to find.
There will be a dozen stands / stores / kiosks trying to sell you tickets for the Ferry (or other adventures). I don't think that it matters where you buy the tickets. In spite of what others may say, I strongly recommend taking the WaterJet, not the UltraMar. Some web sites say that they are the same, but not in my experience. The Blue and Yellow UltraMar Ferry is slower and smellier. Actually they have one real new ferry boat, but one is the old slow smelly one. The Orange and White (or White and Blue) WaterJet seemed better to me. I did not compare prices this year. The ferry ride was $11 one way or $18 round trip. I bought the round trips and set the return ticket aside for later. When you get your ticket(s) get a schedule!
Head towards the correct ferry boat. The WaterJet is usually on the right side of the pier. There will be guys in Orange jumpsuits (they look like California Convicts!) taking bags from people. They will issue you a baggage claim ticket for each bag they take. You get one half, they staple the other half to the bag. They take great care in making sure they protect your bags from theft. (however stuff happens!)
Get on board and relax. The Ferries leave on the hour, although at the moment the 2:00 ferry to Cozumel is not happening. Schedules can change without notice. It is air conditioned inside with comfy seats. You can also go up to the top deck in the rear and sit on a hard bench and watch the scenery, your choice.
About 30 minutes later the ferry will dock at Cozumel. They will announce that everyone should remain seated, and half the people will jump up and run for the door. Standard procedure.
On the dock, you will go find more guys with orange jump suits to retrieve your bags. They will check the numbers on your claim tickets carefully to be sure they are your bags.
Walk down the pier towards the town. You are now in Cozumel! There will be guys with cart-bikes offering to carry your bags etc. At the street there will be a line of taxis to your left, all vying for your business. Get in a cab, tell them where to take you, and begin to relax.
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When you return you do essentially the reverse. We had a guy with a cart-bike haul our bags up from the Ferry Pier in Playa to the bus station because it was hot, we were tired and it is uphill. He was vague about the cost, so I don't know what was up with that. I gave him 50 pesos I think because we had 4 bags and two were heavy (and it was hot)
The return ride on Rivera to the Airport (Aeropuerto) was only 65 pesos (don't remember how many $US but it was $8 last year)
The walk to the departure terminal is MUCH shorter when you return to the Cancun Airport, and the Departure terminal is air conditioned.
On Thursday July 22nd, 2004 we arrived at the Ferry Pier in Cozumel @ 11:50am
Ferry departed @ 12:00+/- (No 1:00pm Ferry to Playa)
Arrived at Playa @ about 12:43
Walked to Bus Depot
Bus Departed @ 1:04 (minor delay backing out)
Arrived at the Cancun Airport a few minutes before 2:00pm
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Last year the travel times and details were similar.
of course, your mileage may vary.
Hope this helps
Wristshot