Glaring flash

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Let me try this again.
 
If you're planning to buy an external strobe to help solve the backscatter problem you'll need to fire the camera flash to trigger it as a slave flash since your housing doesn't have any electronics to directly fire it. So I wouldn't worry about adding a control to turn it off.

Something like the SeaLife SL960D would work.

You'll need the strobe's fiber optic trigger cable attached in front of the camera flash on the exterior of the housing. Since the remote strobe only needs to see the I/R part of the flash to fire, you can use Clear Photo Film or similar from Inon to block the flash but allow the I/R to trigger the strobe.

This setup works with a bunch of different strobes, I mentioned the SeaLife since my buddy has one so I'm familiar with it.
 
Your were obviously diving a wreck; they are notorious for silty conditions resulting in limited viz and backscatter. I would suggest your local library or Amazon.com to find a book that will also illustrate what we are trying to explain. There are many books that show pictures of divers aiming their setup and then explaining correct techinques.

An external strobe on an arm of 8" to 16" inches in length will reduce the amount of backscatter, as well as using available light (strobe turned off or blocked) and getting closer to the subject.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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