Getting TTL to work with a G12 and Ikelite DS61

[Ulsterkiwi]

I tried both a search engine search and a manual trawl through the forums before posting so if this has already been asked and answered I apologise.

I recently obtained an ikelite housing for my G12 and a DS51 strobe.

I had been looking forward to using the TTL function to help make my pictures better but have to say I am struggling. I had previously used a canon housing and an inon slave fired strobe and was becoming reasonably skilled with this rig.

I believe I am setting the camera, housing and strobe correctly but am aware that user error is still a strong possibility!

I am setting the camera to AV mode, switching the flash to always fire, the flash is set to manual and medium power.

I mount the camera in the housing, placing "front" on the hotshoe connector towards the front of the camera.

I connect the strobe to the housing via a 4103.51 sync cable which was supplied with the strobe and I understand that it does not matter which end of the cable to connect to which device.

I have read on the Scubaboard forums that
"Shoot in Av, set to maybe f6.3. Hot shoe pins should not be stuck as others mentioned when you turn your flash on TTL you should have a RED Lightning Bolt on the LCD indicating the camera KNOWS a TTL flash is attached."

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/canon-corner/392858-canon-g12-ikelite-strobe-not-firing.html

However when the hotshoe connector cable is inserted I do NOT have any lightning bolt symbol at all.

I am finding that the majority of shots where the strobe fires are VERY overexposed. This seems to run counter to what the purpose of TTL is supposed to achieve.

Is there a possibility that there is something wrong with my camera settings or the wiring in the housing?

I have emailed Ikelite directly but thought I could ask here while I wait for them to respond.

And having read through many of the forums about ikelite and canon......

YES I know the housing is bigger
YES I know the housing is more expensive
YES I know it has limitations
YES I know metal housings have advantages
YES I know this one is heavier
YES I know there are probably 100s of reasons I should not have changed my rig.
So thank you in advance to those who would enlighten me on this.

 

[oly5050user]

I would set the camera to manual--shut cameras internal strobe off--setting on external strobe on ttl using sync cable. I do not have a G12 but have used ike products for all my cameras starting from nikonos2 thru 5 and on to olympus and nikon digitals.

 

[dhaas]

ulsterkiwi,

As oly5050user states if you don't set your DS51 flash dial to the TTL setting the camera won't recognize you HAVE a TTL strobe attached (and show a RED lightning bolt on your LCD.)

Forgot about the flash setting of the Canon G12's built in flash.

The hot shoe TELLS the G12 it HAS a synch connected TTL strobe attached through the Ikelite housing's built in circuitry in P, Av, or Tv mode.

M mode with "G" series cameras will NOT fire the flash in TTL like Canon SLRs will.

Only manual power in the FUNC / flash menu choices then. You have a TTL equipped housing and flash so shoot in Av mode or even Tv.

Good luck!

David Haas
www.haasimages.com

 

[Ulsterkiwi]

Hi guys thank you for taking the time to reply.
I think I have perhaps confused the issue.
dhass you are quite right, the housing is equipped for TTl and that was the point of changing my rig, to take advantage of that.
I was, as you suggest, using the strobe in TTL mode. When I said "I am setting the camera to AV mode, switching the flash to always fire, the flash is set to manual and medium power." I was in fact referring to camera settings for its internal flash not external strobe/flash settings.
I have tried setting the camera built in flash to always fire/never fire and in the camera menu adjusted flash settings between manual and auto. At no point and with no camera settings do I ever get the red lightning bolt. Am concerned therefore that this is a housing wiring issue. I have read of a number of cases on the boards here, where that seemed to the be the problem. I wondered if that was my issue or if it was simply user error!
Hopefully you can shed some light on this. (so to speak)

 

[acooper]

Exactly the same rig I am shooting, mine is still dripping from this morning's diving.

That little red lightning bolt is critical, unless you see it the flash will fire in dumb mode, at full power. The camera must recognize the flash. With the strobe recognized the only camera flash setting that I have found to really matter is the flash compensation, which is very useful.

I do have some trouble getting it to recognize on occasion, not completely sure why. Make sure the hotshoe connection to the camera is properly seated before sealing up the case. I power up everything and test before closing the case, looking for the red flash symbol. Have the flash on before you turn on the camera.

 

[Ulsterkiwi]

Thanks for that response acooper, it certainly makes sense of what has been happening with seriously overexposed shots the norm.
I have never at any point had the red flash/lightning symbol regardless of the settings or the start up sequence. After reading your reply I went through everything again.
So its looking increasingly like the wiring in the housing is at fault then? Or can a faulty cable or strobe cause this problem as well?

 

[oly5050user]

do you have the correct sync cable? I know the ike part # you told us is correct, but stupid question here is, does it have a blue sleeve on one end. Thats how ikelite identifies digital vs older style sync cables apart.

 

[Ulsterkiwi]

hi there, yup, it has a blue sleeve with the part number I quoted printed on it. The ikelite website says either end will do but I have swapped it around just in case and it doesnt make any difference. A friend has heard there was a batch of dodgy cables (in New Zealand at least!) so am attempting to find a replacement to try out before I send the whole unit back to Ikelite.

 

[dhaas]

ulsterkiwi,

If you change the Canon G12 internal MENU flash setting off AUTO you will NOT get a RED lightning bolt confirming the housing circuitry recognizes a TTL strobe is attached.

In P, Av and Tv you MUST leave the CAMERA'S internal FLASH choice to AUTO.

Also, the cord on the HOT SHOE connector is a short fit in the housing and sometimes sliding it in gets bumped back 1/16" or just enough to lose connection. Also check the pins on the underside of the hot shoe haven't been pushed in and are stuck. They are spring loaded........

I ALWAYS fire test shots with just the camera mounted on the back and then installed in the housing. Shoot numerous (4-5-6) TTL test shots once it's slid in and the latches are closed.

The TOP BACK LEFT "S" shortcut control if not pulled out to the LEFT when installing can pull on the HOT SHOE cable when sliding it in. If you don't do more test shots you'll never know until you're in the water

Finally, make sure you don't have either end of your synch cord with either grease on the pins or them not fully seated making connections. Sometimes the FEMALE ends in the 5 pin connector ends spread apart and aren't making good connection on the MALE ends. A thin tipped pair of needle nose pliers can gently squeeze them together.

Main thing is to get the RED Lightning Bolt showing on your LCD and confirm TTL is recognized.....

Good luck!

David Haas
www.haasimages.com
Ikelite Dealer AND Actual Ikelite Products Shooter

 

[Ulsterkiwi]

Thanks again for all your replies. After testing different combinations of gear which I know is fully functional, it appears the circuitry in the housing is at fault. I have sent it back to the supplier.
I have a few dive buddies who use ikelite housings. Their consensus is that you are not a true ikelite user until you have returned your gear for repair at least three times :-( I guess the good thing is they continue to use ikelite products, so there is either enough redeeming qualities in them or their customer service is good. Here's hoping its both!