getting negatives developed....

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Scubatooth once bubbled...
after reading this thread i have a couple of reccomendations

2. for who reccomended using a flat bed scanner and photoshop, that is a scary reccomendation because most scanners today(except for film scanners) software cant scan negatives to well plus they dont have the software to remove dust and scratches, plus the optical resolution isnt all that good. another thing is that it is so easy to scratch a film neg on a flatbed scanner it unreal.

I agree 100%. If you had read my post, you would notice that I said that a flatbed is the way to do it cheaply. The other methods I suggested (using a good printer and a good 35mm neg scanner) I said was the way to go if you wanted quality.

3. kodak sea processing is worth every penny of $13 you pay for(which is close to some pro labs) it because they know how to process the images and print them perfectly. the processing is all done by hand and each image is processed individually

I'm sure you don't mean to say that they process by hand. Nobody does that with C-41. They put it in the machine to develop it. That way they can maintain the proper temperatures. I'm sure by each imaged being processed individually you mean they adjust exposure and color blance manually on their auto machine for each picture (which I didn't know they did, that is cool that they do).

this auto correction filter you talk about isnt on all printers the devolp film its on alot the 1 hour photo places(ie sams, wlamart, target, etc) andwhen i devolp any film there or send in my workflow for prints i tell them to not use anycorrection on them at all, because the printer always gets it wrong (ie. last set of prints from my dad were of my moms god son they shifted the magenta to gray even though he had put no corrections on the enveolpe when i dropped it off. (and this was for Agfa 400 pro color neg film) and before anybody say that its my dads fault for the shift i disagree i have digital negatives i took and there is no shift and the pink is just right

FWIW

I have seen very few machines that don't have auto exposure/balance. It whether the auto is left on or if a skilled printer disables it and maybe manually corrects that makes a difference. I think we are on the same page.
 
Hello,

On the flatbed confusion:

The epson 3200 flatbed is a VERY nice flatbed scanner. As for scan software the stock is good, as is vuescan, once you use vuescan you'll never go back. Scan software should NEVER, EVER remove dust/scratches, it should calibrate, level adjustment and scan. Touchups, like dust/scratches, is best left to the pro, photoshop.

If you want a real 'pro lab' that does alot of underwater work then check out the darkroom in cali. They have done me an awsome job in the past and I use them for anything over 8x10's. As for the 'sea processing', if your doing snapshots then it's fine, if your doing anything else it's not.

Ed
 
Big-t-2538 the kodak sea processing is for either a 24,27 or 36 shot roll for the same price.


Blacknet, sorry jumpig on you i didnt mean it to sound that way. the one you said you use it pretty good, but i prefer a traditional film scanner for negs(nikon 4000 with digital ice software) but have used a flatbed from time-to-time but mainly to scan in my handdrawing for designs for various projects i do

as for sea processing only good for P&S i would disagree with you because my motor marine ex and nikanos V (w/ dual stobes)shots have all come out very well, except for when i totally messed up by not paying attention to details in the settings .

The Avatar the term processing is the whole process from start of the processing till when the prints are done. the devolping of the film is like a standard pro kodak devolping, then once the negatives have been devolped, then when they are brought into the printing section and this is when the operators of the machines check each negative and do the necessary color corrections, as mentioned above(this is were the hand processing comes in) then run prints through the printer, and that is the kodak see processing


As for the auto correction filter that you talk about it is a setting in the system not by default set to the on postion(but most places put it on ) as said before thats why i dont like the auto corrections on most printers because they stink thats why i ask to have them turned off as long with writing it on the enveolpe

(but then again the prolab i go to does only pros and they know what i need and want(ie no auto filters) and plus since they do it all in house they have one person who does all of the rolls coming in and he does it all by hand(similar to what i said above, but the QC is much tighter) so that my prints always come out great , and that average turn around time for a single roll is 4 days (which for the service they provide is great, because if the prints are going to look great i dont mind the wait.
 
Scubatooth,

For my work if it's on 35mm it goes into the dimage dual scan II, if it's larger, say 6x7, it goes in the perfectscan 3200. If you want a true film scanner for 6x7 or 4x5 you are going to pay dearly for it. There was an article in this recent issue of lensworks about the 3200 and they stated with some minor corrections you can get the same output with the 3200 as a film scanner.

Ed
 
blacknet, ok now i understand the logic behind the flat bed and i understand why to, thos things are way to expensive for what they do , who knows myaybe the next set of canon or nikons will have support for something other then 35mm
 
Sea and Sea then click on the Kodak Sea Processing link found on the upper right. There are few places in Ohio that do it.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom