generic coolant hose versus loc-line brand

[heehee62]

Wait, so you post asking others for help implying that you expect others to respond, but you can't be bothered to talk about what you are making?

Sorry, this was never my intention at all. I've been told I write way too much sometimes so I didn't want to waste people's time answering me or reading long posts when I got the answer already. I'll post a photo when I'm done and give an explanation of it even (though I have to admit, I procrastinate so it could be quite some time).

I'm using the loc-line for video light arms. It looked to me like loc-line was used for non-DIY arms but the dive equipment manufacturers charge way more.

Backscatter Flex Arm for Light & Motion Sola Video Lights bs-61666_1.jpg

I'm going to build a light rig using (hopefully black colored) pvc and 3/4" loc-line. The bottom half will look something like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPZ7ZlArbvI

Might use rubber bicycle handles like this Amazon.com : REPLACEMENT RUBBER SCOOTER HANDLE BAR GRIPS 5 3/4in 142mm RED for SCOOTERS : Sports Scooter Handles : Sports & Outdoors for grip.

I'm going to cap the top of the pvc arms with a flat conduit cap. Mueller Streamline P116 3 in. PVC Flat Cap Hub-05979H at The Home Depot

Then I'm going to screw in a loc-line fixed mount to the cap so I can attach the loc-line arms to the top of the it (thinking only a 5 to 6 inch segment). Loc-Line 60533 Fixed Mount

My lights are cheap Chinese lights like this. 1800 Lm CREE XM-L T6 LED Diving Dive Flashlight Waterproof Torch Light - Basic Handheld Flashlights - Amazon.com which I'm retrofitting to become video lights using the holographic diffuser 3D diver recommended to me in an earlier thread.

I'm leaning towards spending a little more money on the connection between the light and the loc-line. Maybe going with what someone else recommended in this thread using a YS adapter http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ma...rm-housing-setup-photography-videography.html.

but the YS adapter part does seem like it can be built pretty easy or made from cheaper parts so I'm debating that. I think mounting is really important both in terms of ease of use and for a solid system so I might spend a little more there.

I may use threaded pvc on the top arm pieces so I can unscrew the locline arms for easier packing. Also, I might want it to double as a fig rig http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ma...rm-housing-setup-photography-videography.html but I might be dreaming a little too much there. We'll see.

My main concern is the connection piece between the loc-line and pvc perhaps not being strong enough. Also my lights. We'll see.

Thanks for all the posts. Sorry didn't intend to be rude here.

EDIT: Having hard time finding black pvc (may have to color it using a different method). I did find some clear pvc that might be cool for a DIY gopro extender arm though it's a little costly.http://www.industrialplasticpipe.com/pages/ClearPVCPipeandFittings.htm

EDIT AGAIN: Found some pvc of all different colors though it's more expensive http://www.formufit.com/pipe . Also, I guess those loc-line adapters can come threaded http://www.modularhose.com/Loc-Line-34-System/34-connectors/Loc-Line-61505 so I could just use that instead of the cap and then mount idea I was originally planning. Seems sturdier that way but I'm afraid they'll be harder to unthread than pvc caps.

 

[scubastingray]

The idea of cheapest generic anything as part of a life support system just doesn't sound like a path I'd want to go down.

Steve

Are you serious?

Your LDS must love you.



As far as working with Loc-Line, I've never bought the pliers but do the following. If I need a piece snapped together I get two glasses of water. One I put ice in and put it in the freezer for a few minutes, the other I put near boiling water in. You then heat the female end and cool the male end. This method has always worked well for me. To get them apart you just dunk the female end in Hot water (only up to the bottom of the joint), and pry. It's easier to get them put together than take them apart.

---------- Post added July 3rd, 2014 at 11:15 AM ----------

My lights are cheap Chinese lights like this. 1800 Lm CREE XM-L T6 LED Diving Dive Flashlight Waterproof Torch Light - Basic Handheld Flashlights - Amazon.com which I'm retrofitting to become video lights using the holographic diffuser 3D diver recommended to me in an earlier thread.

which diffuser are you looking at using?
Here's the method I plan on using.
JohnohUK's Ramblings: DIY Underwater Video light for my Sony Action Cam
It's also worth noting that a lot of the LED modules are the same, so if you plan on modding them/messing with them anyway you seem to be paying a large premium. I paid about $10 a piece for my lights that use the same LED that all my dive lights have.

 

[heehee62]

I paid about $10 a piece for my lights that use the same LED that all my dive lights have.

The $35 was a 3 LED light. Sorry my linked photo wasn't the exact same light, just similar body. Thanks for warning me about possibly getting screwed though.

I considered JohnohUK's method as well. Still might go back to it. But the diffuser film seemed easier (not that John's method is that difficult) and John had noticed a lot of backscatter on shots that were not very close (according to his comment at the end of your earlier link).

See post 69 in the link below by 3D diver for details on the diffuser film I'm planning to use. It's expensive if you're making just one light but I've got others interested in doing the same thing who can split the film cost with me.

I've been having a hell of time getting a response from the film manufacturer though. They said the person that I should talk with is back next week so theoretically I'll have more confirmed current pricing info if that person is more responsive than the one who has been working with me. If I do end up buying the film, I'll probably offer to give away some of my leftover film for free to people on this board (if they pay shipping costs). Whether I buy it will depend on shipping costs which for some reasons was extremely high for 3ddiver.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/gopro-video/425784-my-gopro-3d-setup-7.html

 

[scubastingray]

Yeah, no problem. Best of luck. I'm interested in how those work with a go pro setup, it seems like the film would be a bit inadequate for the diffusion I'm looking for. Maybe combined with the method of moving the LED forward would give decent diffusion.Ideally I'd have two of the lights cover the FOV of the go pro and give usable light in caves/at night.

 

[Dauntless]

In process of making locline arms and thought I would run a piece of heavy monofiliment through the arms and attach each end securely to tray and light so if arm should snap open, there would be a safety line to save the light. Thinking about heating PVC pipe to 200 in oven and squishing ends when hot to form YS type connector, with non suuashed end inserted in PVC cap attached to locline end piece.