Galileo sol rbt issue, help!
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Hatul
Contributor
The class for the Galileo Sol is $12.99 and is valid for 1 year
The simulators are free.
The cost to equip the simulators with the Galileo Sol is $6.99.
If you enroll in the class you get to use the Sol for free for 30 days.
sphyrnidus
Contributor
The RBT does not stop at 20 ft. It is what it is, the remaining bottom time at the depth you are. When it occurs during a safety stop, it'll notify you, you are running low on air, that is independent of the depth you are at. I can't make it much clearer than this.
Carlos Danger
Contributor
Sounds like maybe you just blew through your bottle.
I really like the Galileo algorithm, always seems to perfectly suit my profiles without blowing my NDL. Understanding your equipment is obviously important, but maybe you're too preoccupied with what the unit is doing rather than just diving your profile. Personally, I would enable the "All Silent" mode feature and set it to the screen configuration to "Light", then just spend more time diving the unit using the visual alarms. If the unit goes into deco it will automatically switch to "Classic" mode to display the info you'll need to know. As you become more efficient with your consumption I think you'll find it to be a great tool.
I really like the Galileo algorithm, always seems to perfectly suit my profiles without blowing my NDL. Understanding your equipment is obviously important, but maybe you're too preoccupied with what the unit is doing rather than just diving your profile. Personally, I would enable the "All Silent" mode feature and set it to the screen configuration to "Light", then just spend more time diving the unit using the visual alarms. If the unit goes into deco it will automatically switch to "Classic" mode to display the info you'll need to know. As you become more efficient with your consumption I think you'll find it to be a great tool.
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Hatul
Contributor
I also like the algorithm and the UWatec implementation of RBT. I use the "light" mode in twilight and night diving with push on/off backlight. During the day I use classic mode with my bifocal lenses. In light mode it shows either RBT or NDL whichever is smaller. I do use the audio alarms so I don't have to be looking at the display all the time. I normally dive with MB level set to 1.
When RBT approaches zero it means if you make your ascent now and at optimal speed with all the stops you will surface with the Reserve Volume (assuming constant SAC) , which is settable in the options. It's a signal that you must begin your ascent or you risk running out. Of course if you're really shallow and have done your stops it does not really matter.
On the other hand if you're at depth and diving with a buddy you should never allow the RBT to go to zero, as you need reserve for yourself in case your ascent is not optimal or SAC goes up or you need to provide air for your buddy.
CPH
Contributor
You need to spend some time reading the book and setting things for the dives you want.
Firstly you need to tell the computer what quantity of air you would like when the dive is over and you are on the boat. Your safety margins. For me and the wife, when we dive to 30m on 300bar 7s we need 80 bar as a safety. This will get both of us back to the surface if we needed to share at depth.
This will then allow the computer to work out when to start shouting at you.
Secondly, adjust the alarms to stop shouting once you have seen them. EVERY alarm can be turned on/of/sound/visual.
Then you should have a better dive with less alarms.
Firstly you need to tell the computer what quantity of air you would like when the dive is over and you are on the boat. Your safety margins. For me and the wife, when we dive to 30m on 300bar 7s we need 80 bar as a safety. This will get both of us back to the surface if we needed to share at depth.
This will then allow the computer to work out when to start shouting at you.
Secondly, adjust the alarms to stop shouting once you have seen them. EVERY alarm can be turned on/of/sound/visual.
Then you should have a better dive with less alarms.
If the book is anything like the other recreational computer manuals out there you need to throw it in a drawer and take the on line class from DiveNav.
Your instructor or the shop that sold you the computer should also have went over ALL the functions and setting on it before allowing you to dive with it. As much as it cost they should have walked you through every screen.
Being new you have a lot of things to think about on your first dives. Why a computer is not acting the way you think it should is not something that should be happening. You should know all the operations of it before getting in the water with it. Not doing so could be dangerous.
With all that is going on with new OW divers, this is one of the reasons I do not recommend computers to new divers. Plan your dive on the tables, dive the plan, and when you get to the point where a computer is actually going to be of real benefit buy one and learn it inside and out before getting in the water with it.
Your instructor or the shop that sold you the computer should also have went over ALL the functions and setting on it before allowing you to dive with it. As much as it cost they should have walked you through every screen.
Being new you have a lot of things to think about on your first dives. Why a computer is not acting the way you think it should is not something that should be happening. You should know all the operations of it before getting in the water with it. Not doing so could be dangerous.
With all that is going on with new OW divers, this is one of the reasons I do not recommend computers to new divers. Plan your dive on the tables, dive the plan, and when you get to the point where a computer is actually going to be of real benefit buy one and learn it inside and out before getting in the water with it.
halocline
Contributor
I mostly agree with this, although I think that VERY SIMPLE inexpensive dive computers can be of great benefit to new divers as well. The rapid ascent alarm can be a good training tool for divers that are new to blue water diving where there is no ground reference for maintaining depth, and it's interesting to get a visual reference of N2 loading via the loading bar graph. And studying dive profiles after the fact can be very instructive. But buying a computer instead of planning dives is a big mistake.
Certainly buying a $1000+ dive computer loaded with 'features' that don't significantly add to the dive experience, but often create an expectation on the part of the new diver that the computer will 'take care of everything', is not a smart purchase for a newly-certified diver IMO, except of course for the dealer!
Hatul
Contributor
In the case of the OP, he has a good dive computer that he will grow into. It's just a matter of some learning curve and reading the manual +- doing the DiveNav online lesson. If he continues to dive regularly it's just a matter of time that he masters all the numbers on this computer.
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