G250? Worth servicing?

[buddhasummer]

Thank you, makes sense. I'll plug the port and just work on one at a time. The first stage is a brand new Mk25 Evo, ip IIRC was sitting at a steady 130, may have been a little lower I forget but wasn't creeping.

 

[buddhasummer]

Will a G250V flow vane fit a G250? I ask as I wear gloves and the smaller vane on the G250 is hard to use. Cheers.

 

[halocline]

I mean engage with the lever. When you say you got new levers do you mean new of the same model or a different lever?

When you say "didn't play nice" what was happening? Other than the assembly issue I'm not sure I do now have an actual problem.

The lever issue is basically because SP has updated the levers, with slight changes in the angle and design of the feet. The latest lever has curved feet, is a little shorter, and has steeper angles. That one has worked quite well for me in converted 109s. There are long threads about levers.

R109 lever height
Scubapro 109 Lever Height, Take 2
the great 109 to 156 (using the new S-wing) and "lever" issues threads (continued)

 

[buddhasummer]

Thank you for the info and links. I'll order two new G250V levers.

I read those threads you linked to, very enlightening. Certainly looks like what might be causing my issues. Thanks again.

Just placed an order for 2 new levers, if they solve my issue I'll order the parts to re build the other 2 G250s I have. Not too keen just yet to drop the money on more parts until I'm sure I can get the current set working properly.

 

[buddhasummer]

Update:

Played around some more. IP is a steady 130. One cracks at .9-1" the lever is sitting inline with the rim of the case. In water it breaths very nice and smooth, a slight leak that stops when the adjustment knob is turned in slightly, I'm happy with it. The other I cannot get to crack below 1.4" if I adjust any further it free flows, the lever is about 2-3mm above the rim of the case. It doesn't leak and seems to breathe ok. I've ordered the G250V levers so will swap them out when they arrive and see what happens.

A very big thank you to all those who offered advice and gave pointers, there is no way I would have been able to achieve what I have without all your help, very much appreciated. A shout out to lowviz for swapping my red button and somewhat scratched face plate with a "new" one with a blue button. Also Bryan at VDH for offering parts to the general community, and of course all the gurus who chimed in, you know who you are. Once again, thanks to all. Cheers.

 

[buddhasummer]

Anyone know anywhere online I can buy a Halcyon Halo jam nut? I want to swap out the G250 proprietary jam nut so I can just use a wrench..I assume it will fit fine?

 

[buddhasummer]

Update:

Fitted new G250V levers went together very easily.

I have a question, if I suck very hard I can draw air in both second stages. I've checked mouth pieces, blocked off first stage, changed out diaphragms, all new O rings, new seats, new oriface etc etc but still can draw some air if I suck very hard. On my Apeks I can't draw any air. Is this normail? Or is there a problem? hooked up they don't leak and seem to breathe fine...cheeers.

They are paired with a MK25 if that has any bearing.

 

[buddhasummer]

Also how do you prevent/or straighten the air barrel? Once the jam but is done up it twists and the lever does not sit parallel, as I'm using a standard hose once fitted I can no longer use the SP jam nut tool. Cheers.

 

[Couv]

Also how do you prevent/or straighten the air barrel? Once the jam but is done up it twists and the lever does not sit parallel, as I'm using a standard hose once fitted I can no longer use the SP jam nut tool. Cheers.

I'm reversing the order of your questions as they may be connected. The plastic housing of your G250 has a square broach that interfaces with the square end of the metal air barrel which should prevent it from rotating. However if you've over torqued the jam nut, you may have drawn the air barrel out of the broach and allowed air to squeeze past one of the barrel o-rings...OR, and I'm hoping this is not the issue, the plastic housing itself may be cracked. Always, always, always use two wrenches when installing and removing a hose on a plastic case second stage. BTW the jam nut should only be slightly past finger tight. After installing the air barrel assembly, use a pick or small phillips screwdriver inserted into the stop pin hole to hold the air barrel in place while you tighten the jam nut. Once you've confirmed the air barrel is correctly positioned, and the housing is not cracked, continue with the general vacuum leak search below.

.... all new O rings, new seats, new oriface etc etc but still can draw some air if I suck very hard. ....Is this normail? .....They are paired with a MK25 if that has any bearing.

The vacuum leak has nothing to do with the MK25.

To find the leak, use the process of elimination. Start by separating the components from each other and check one thing at a time. Remove the second stage hoses from the air barrel (use two wrenches!) Double check the air barrel and the orifice o-rings. Next, you'll be using your thumbs, palm of your hand, electricians tape, etc to block off possible areas that might develop a leak.

Block off the air barrel with your thumb, remove the mouthpiece and apply vacuum directly to the mouthpiece horn. Still leaking? The key may be you are sucking "very hard." ScubaPro exhaust valves are known to leak under a lot of vacuum. With the air barrel still blocked off, use your thumbs to close off the exhaust tee. If you cannot get a good seal, you'll have to remove the exhaust tee, remove the exhaust valve and tape over the exhaust valve port. Still leaking? Remove the diaphragm cover (again), diaphragm, ring etc and put the palm of your hand over the area where the diaphragm normally seals. If you cannot block it off this way, tape over or use a piece of rubber mat as a seal. Still leaking? You forgot to replace the flow vane o-ring didn't you?

Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

[buddhasummer]

Thank you very much for your very detailed response. Things I've tried so far, stabbing in the dark.

Removed reg from hose, still leaked.
Removed mouth piece and sucked, still leaked.
Removed barrel from reg and tried to blow/suck, air tight.
Replaced exhaust diaphragm with a new one, still leaked.
Replaced main diaphragm with another and then a new one still leaked.
Replaced seat with a new one, still leaked.
Removed all components and installed them in another body, still leaked.
Vane O ring is in place.
I've oressurized and submerged both 2nd stages, no bubbles. Given both are leaking I don't think it's the cases.

It's impossible for me to use two wrenches as the reg has the ribbed jam nut and the hose metric so can't use two at the same time as the SP ribbed jam nut tool will not fit over the hose end. I've done the jam nut up finger tight and then the hose against the jam nut, I've been very careful not to gorilla tighten them. Your tip is very helpful I will do that.

One of my 2nd stages is cracking around .8-.9" the other I cannot get below 1.4" and when I initiate a free flow it is the most violent free flow I've ever experienced, it starts sounding like a machine gun, or helicopter rotors, I have no idea what's going on there but seems to be indicative of a problem? I'm still playing with leaver height, have done the turn the orifice until it leaks back it off to the point that the leak stops then another "1 hour".

When using new G250V orifices the lever was about 3 mm above case, swapped them out for the original ones and lever height is inline or just under the case rim.

I've converted both the s-wing poppet assembly and am using the new levers (G250V).

I'm a little lost to be honest...