French Polynesia/Manihi

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Finesse

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Well I wish we were still there !!!!

What a great trip this was for us ……….. Our first destination was Manihi, an Atoll about 350 miles north of Tahiti. Manihi is part of the Tuamotus Island chain which also includes Tikehau and Rangiroa to name a few. We flew into Rangiroa on our way to Manihi …. WOW to see the Lagoon of Rangiroa ….color was remarkable !!!!! Different hues of Blues and Greens just looked electric under the sun. Next time we will spend a few days on Rangiroa to discover its lagoon.
It was only a short trip to Manihi from there and once again we were awe struck by the appearance of the lagoon and surrounding waters. We came to find out that many a time this lagoon is used for photo ops as it is so nice. The Atoll is about 3 miles wide and somewhere around 19 miles in length. A small airstrip is all the twin prop plane has to land on and there is no control tower or anything else for that matter…..just a wind sock for the pilot to use for guidance….The airport…. a lonely thatched roof hut.

MANIHI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT….Hello

There is little to do on this atoll …..except relax…..which was almost automatic….The resort does run some activities i.e. Picnic on a motu(small Island), visit a pearl farm, some snorkeling trips and of course diving. The travel brochures inform that this is mainly a diving destination however we found that while we were there only a handful were divers. There is only one restaurant with the resort or anywhere for that matter ….. so choice was very limited….food was OK and you have the most luck if you enjoy fish….

The resort is relatively small …..somewhere around 30-40 bungalows between overwater to beach front to garden accommodations, this was what we liked about it ….. If you’re looking for crowds, stay on Tahiti or go to Hawaii (I heard some where that Hawaii has more visitors in a month or a week ….well you get the idea ….. than Tahiti has in a whole year) Of course the over waters are the most expensive and the Garden are the least expensive…..The overwaters allow you to snorkel right off your sun deck …..which was pretty neat.

Resort from boat

The weather was perfect....most of the time bright clear skies (an occasional shower would come and go) and temps in the mid 80's.....November starts Polynesia’s summer months and brings more considerable rain so we were told. The refreshing breeze continued day and night....which made for a very comfortable stay.

Service was great…..the Polynesians and many French (as this is French Territory) where all extremely friendly and accommodating.

Blue Nui Dive Center
This is the only center on the atoll ( that we knew of) but after our experience even if there were others I wouldn’t dive with anyone else. They are a group of four centers (Manihi, Bora Bora, Tikehau and Taha’a). The night prior to diving anyone who wanted to dive would meet at the Bar and talk one on one with the Dive masters or the Manager/Dive Instructor, Thierry, of that site…(Thierry (Terry) was unbelievable and made this such a great experience)

Pool and Bar

…It was great as you could learn of what dives were available and develop a relationship with the people you would dive with in the morning (this was a huge asset to new divers (i.e. my better half) to help settle any concerns that they had) Dives happened three times a day… 8am, 10 am, and 1or 3 pm. All sites (4 or 5) except one were 5-10 minutes from the resort/dive center so the surface interval was spent riding back to the dive center and getting new tanks. Night diving is available but you need a few people, I think 3-4 , to sign up before that happens. Cost of a dive I believe was around $65/dive (that included all gear, tank and shorty wetsuit)….no discount if you had your own stuff. Packages could be purchased for a discount and what you didn’t use could be applied at the other Blue Nui centers.

The Dive Center……it was a few steps from our bungalow (the furthest bungalow was maybe a 3-4 minute walk). All of our gear was stored at the center and locked up (we brought our own gear). Fresh water dunk tank and shower were right next to the boat. When we got to the boat in the morning everything was on the boat and ready to go….It was great. We did not use the centers gear but it looked in very good shape ….. especially after hearing some stories of what others had dived with on other Islands during there stay. The dive boat was about 23’ , Aluminum with twin engines ….. so it was a quick ride to the sites.



Diving
We typically did the two morning dives as it left the rest of the day to “chill out”. The circus , the cleaning station, was typically the first dive, then in the ocean for the later dives. Vis was Ok inside the lagoon ….but much better outside. Of course Mantas were cruising all around while at the circus. The reef offered tons of fish and some nice hard coral. Boat moored on the reef edge of the wall which was several thousand feet deep. Sharks (black tip and Grey reef ) were in the area but after a while left. Lots of stuff to see. Never got below 80 feet and typically stayed around 60-70 feet. Vis was great and the water temp was an nice 82 degrees. A few days prior to our arrival a Humpback whale and her calf were spotted so the divers got a special treat and were able to snorkel along side her.



Cost…. well best not to look at the cost of things anywhere in FP…and if you looking to do it on a tight budget this might not be the best spot (French Polynesia) to come to ..As with the trip everything is expensive….From about $3.50 US for an 8oz bottle of coke (yes I said 8oz) to the $20.00/person breakfast of scrambled eggs, fresh fruit, various types of bread rolls croissants …Dinner …well we wont go there..If your going best to get a prepaid meal plan…..and go to happy hour at the bar (next to the pool) from 5 to 6 pm to get the best deals if your looking for tropical drinks…$6-7…..otherwise $13.00 a pop.

Bora Bora to come later
 
Waiting for Part 2...:D
 
I enjoyed your report. Nice touch inserting the pictures. That is some of the bluest water I have ever seen.
Waiting for part II also.
PS That airport PIC is a riot!
 
Bora Bora

On a side note .....we had made a comment to Thierry (on Manihi) that we had wished we had more time on Manihi as we were delighted with everything there, I’m sure in part to our relationship with the dive center….. such that we felt like we were part of their family. Thierry said to us that if we thought Manihi was nice and the water was beautiful ….. wait until we see the lagoon of Bora Bora…..Once again he was right!!! I have never in my life seen colors this vibrant and brilliant. If I said it once I said it a thousand times on video “This is UNBELEIVABLE!!!!” While pictures do a decent job of capturing the beauty ….. nothing beats being right there. An absolutely mystical Island…..and it is one of the most recognized in the South Pacific. Tropical flowers were everywhere ….even plain old bushes had beautiful flowers on them.

Bora Bora is part of the Society Islands….Raiatea, Moorea, Tahiti, Huahine and a few more……All mountainous islands covered in lush green growth. It’s about a 45 minute plane ride from Tahiti …and yes the airport has a tower!!!!! The airport however does reside on a Motu on the northern portion of the island and to the best of my knowledge no roads access the airport…..Transport to all resorts is via water taxis or the resort’s boat. It also seemed as thought the prop planes that flew into Bora Bora had higher capacity than what we had flown in Manihi. That being said ….. Lots more people!!!!! A word of advice that I failed to mention in the Manihi report…..WATCH YOUR LUGGAGE WEIGHT ….. because the inter-island air carrier will nail you if you don’t…..we are $250 lighter in the wallet !!!!!!

The island and the atoll surrounding the lagoon has many resorts and more being built (the Sheraton) ….The Island is something like 17 –18 miles around (only one road to travel so you cant get lost). The highest peak is Mt. Otemanu (2,400’) and Mt Pahia (2,200’) From our location three separate resorts could be seen and we were on our own Motu about a mile from the main island. This was something we had in Manihi, unspoiled views but no mountainous terrain, …..which was kinda nice.

The Sofitel Motu

Another WOW and yet another WOW…What a view….A boat picks us up at the airport and whisks us away to the Motu. Upon approach of the Motu’s dock a Native Polynesian is awaiting our arrival as he is singing and playing the ukulele…..pretty good I might add. Then one of the concierges greets us with cool, wet face clothes and a tropical drink for each of us…… and of course the customary flower Lei. We are escorted of to our bungalow where somehow our bags have already arrived (not quite sure how that happened so quick … but who’s complaining) The bungalow was quite impressive….. all done in palm leaves/thatched roof and exotic woods….Mahogany and Teak….The floor had the window in it to look through to the lagoon . Through the HUGE 10-12 foot sliding doors was a deck that had a thatch roof over it. Down two steps was another deck that had two lounge chairs in the sun, and then down five more stairs was a platform at lagoon level for swimming and snorkeling. Snorkeling was pretty good , as the more you swam around the more you would find. After being in and around this I finally understood the rating this place received!! Oh yes there was air conditioning also…


Dining

The options were much better here (even though we again had a private restaurant on the Motu)….as we could request a boat (the boat was on demand) to take us to the main land and we could go out to dinner at the local restaurants. You would make a reservation with the restaurant and they would come and pick you in a shuttle bus and drop you at the restaurant. Again as mentioned before the cost was pretty steep. The food was also very good at the restaurants which we patronized.

Diving

Well the center we went with was Blue Nui as we had a package (well we just prepaid the dives hence a lower rate)….I believe there to be 4 or 5 dive centers on Bora Bora…..naturally the one we are with is on the exact opposite side of the island (we are on the South east corner and the center is on the northeast corner)………Really not a problem but we had to shuttle across to the main land , get picked up by one of the Dive masters…..drive around the island about 35 minutes, get on another boat to the dive center…..Thankfully they had all our gear locked up also….Bottom line it sure wasn’t as convenient as on Manihi. Pearl Beach on Bora Bora, which we were taken on a tour of …about three times the size of our resort but very nice, is the resort to stay in if you want to dive with this center as it is right on the premises.

I had several discussions about this trip with Wendy, the owner’s wife…..and she was a tremendous asset in making this trip work. The owner, Gilles, ended up taking the two of us on two dives - private dives as we were the only customers.

Again the water clarity was fantastic , except in the lagoon, and the life was good ……but we still felt Manihi had many more colors flashing all about on the reef. Water temp was about the same …..but the wind was not a persistent as it was on the other atoll.
We did a Manta dive in the lagoon ….but it was pale in comparison to our dives on Manihi…..many more divers, must have crossed the path of about 12-14 other divers (I think we got back to the surface and 4 or 5 other boats were there with divers coming and going…….Also the vis was quite poor in contrast to the other dives) . The reef however was pretty nice and had a good variety of life on it….All sorts of reef fish, several shark species, Morays, Turtles and corals. The reef gradually sloped away into the depths instead of a wall plunging into a dark blue abyss.

There was a nice site outside the atoll on the northwest side of the island that I wished we had more time to play on. It was Called Muri Muri or the White Valley. Water clarity was very good as you swam down the mooring to around 65’. At this point there was a sand bottom with lots of coral heads……and quite a few sharks….. Underwater we swam to the edge of this reef to a drop off that lead to a pure white sand bottom that reflected light up into the water column. There was lots to see but not enough time to do it in…..as we had fifteen minute swims to and from this area and the depth limited our air….If I recall we were down around 95-98 feet…Nice dive just wished we could have put more time into it. The site also seemed to be a hard dive site to get to as it was on the windward side of the Island …hence weather ruled when the boat could get there……we were lucky that on our last day of diving the ocean settled down and allowed us to make this dive. The dive center seemingly rearranged a dive or two to facilitate this dive as they seem to consider it an advanced dive……although I couldn’t figure out why……other than the depth you could reach….. personally I enjoyed this dive more than the others on Bora Bora. After that dive we did a modified drift……well more like swim dive along the reef at Tapu (Tapu is a small motu inside the reef on the west side of Bora Bora) right outside the pass in the atoll. This is where all the ships enter and leave Faanui Bay. This was where we did the majority of the dives.

Ok my fingers hurt and I'm sure your eyes hurt also ....Thanks for letting us share this with you!!!!!
 
Spent a day on Moorea which was nice.....alot more secluded than I thought it would be....only a few resorts on that Island.

Tahiti....well we really didnt have too much time there either .... once out of the "city...more like town" of Papeete it is suppose to be much more like a South Pacific Island......

And how could I forget the proverbial sunsets and yet another
 
that was great wish I was there too badI am stuck hear in North Carolina and diving the quarries and sometimes the ocean dives due to no perminate dive buddie have to some day work on that your post was excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!and loved the pictures what kind camera and out fit you used !!!!!
 
Thanks so much for the terrific report :clapping:

Sounds like the trip of a lifetime.... :)

Sooooo, you are already planning on going back? :D
"Next time we will spend a few days on Rangiroa to discover its lagoon."

Please provide practical details:
- when did you go?
- how long did you stay on each island?
- what's the total cost (approx)?
- any restaurants that you recommend on Bora Bora

I need to start doing some very serious planning for our wedding anniversary here :wink:
 
Medic Thank you....
Well its back to reality for us ......As in NJ its been rather cool (even frost warnings at night) windy and raining since we came back. I've been in touch with some of my buddies and the LDS. Apparently there has not been too much diving since we were away........Mother nature has been dictating diving lately.

The pics.....well I'm looking to throw them up on site at some time....just got to pick one......

The camera is an Olympus 3040. Its housed in an Ikelite housing and I have an Ikelite DS-125 strobe. Some of the land based photos were digital (the clearer ones) and some 35 mm........which the developer put on CD ..... However I'm disappointed in the quality as it is very poor. Thankfully the prints came out great....all 13 rolls !!!!! Oh yeah there was a picture or two that I grabbed off of video.......



Zeina.....Thank you for your words

Well.... where to start

Yes this was planned as our Dream Trip/ Trip of a lifetime......BUT ...I said to my wife on the second day ...Its no longer a matter of IF we come back but rather when we come back......If you love the ocean and water this is the place to go....well IMHO......As I grew up very close to the ocean ...less than two miles from my families home…(yes I am a true water rat!!). I love to be near it when its 90 outside and tons of people in August as much as I love it in February, its snowing and there’s not a sole to be seen (I almost like it better at this time :wink: ).

Tahiti is a place I have dreamed of going to since I was old enough to read as I was obsessed with aquatic life and tropical Islands.....I remember this one book we had that had a fold out page and the most unique creature I remember seeing to this day was a Manta....I knew someday I would swim with one in real life........Dream come true!!!!!

Yes we will go back.....Not sure when ..... But we will do things a bit different this time......and all I will say about that is do a lot of reading before making your plans...and try to leave all of your preconceptions at home....

Our trip was late September until a few days ago....It is late winter or early summer there ......Summer brings a lot of Rain as we have been told from November till March/ April....7days Manihi....8 days Bora Bora and 2-3 on Tahiti (planes leave for the states either really early AM like 2:30 or later at night 11 pm (well at least the couples we ran into)........


Restaurants ....There are quite a few....usually including your resorts facilities......The Sofitel Motu has what is considered a World Class restaurant that is essentially exclusive to people staying on the Motu.....However you can make reservations from other places on Bora Bora to dine in this restaurant....but people staying on the Motu get first chance at reservations here......The night we dined in the restaurant it was only 25% full. Other places we enjoyed were The Bamboo House, Fare Manuia, Bloody Mary's ......these were all good places to eat and we made return trips to several of them.......We also ordered Room Service on a few occasions as we just didn’t feel like going out........Truthfully we got sick of eating out!!!!! Its also a good thing to enjoy/like fish.

Cost ..... Well all I have to say about that is this is no $2,000/person dive vacation!!!! :eek:
 
I know that shark picture - you got it from a stock library!

And as for Bora Bora - it's just a mud filled hollow in the sea!

But seriously, I can confirm that Bora Bora is a stunning place; I have seen lots of lagoons in my time, and Bora Bora is hard to beat. The only down side was the place was crawling with (American) honeymooners. Whoops, oh, I'm so sorry Scott & Robin, YOU were (American) honeymooners! I'm always putting my foot in it!

When my scanner is back from being mended (4 weeks time) I shall endorse Scott's report with my own.

However, I do feel that their time in Bora Bora was made much more pleasant by the presence of me and my gruppenfurher, I mean wife. After all, if it was not for our meeting, none of you would know why we keep on going on about om e lets and muffins! (Isn't that right, big boy?)
 
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