free flowing pony reg...

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

The same thing has happened to me every time I have my regs serviced. I pick them up...take them to the pool...they free flow like crazy....I take them back to the shop...they adjust them....it stops. Why can they just be done right the first time.
 
RICHinNC:
The same thing has happened to me every time I have my regs serviced. I pick them up...take them to the pool...they free flow like crazy....I take them back to the shop...they adjust them....it stops. Why can they just be done right the first time.

"Every time" is alarming but sometimes it may take a while for new parts to set in. As this occures, cracking pressure is usually reduced resulting in leaks and FF.
some instructions call for an extra detuning turn for new parts but that also makes it a bit harder breathing. Best answer is to learn to do that final tweeking yourself. That simple skill can get you years of high performance breathing between necessary services.
 
If a reg is working fine, and you get the annual service, that is the point at which it is most likely to have problems. I usually make slight adjustments over the first few dives after an annual service to get them just the way I like. It is very easy to tune the cracking pressure on a reg.

I use a Sherwood reg on my deco and pony bottles so it's necessary to keep the tank valve open. Your free flowing is likely caused by two problems - sensitive cracking pressure and regulator position in stowage. Shops will usually tune all regs as though they are a primary. I also assume your 2nd stage is not adjustable.

Are you shore diving or boat diving? As you can imagine, if your pony (or any) reg is facing down and you giant stride it will free flow. Same applies for surf entries from shore. I suggest you get the cracking pressure tuned down a bit but also change the position of the face of the reg.

--Matt
 
I just got back from the lds and they tuned the reg down for me, and no it is not user ajustable. I jumped in the pool and it began to rapidly free flow, even when I pulled it out of the water. I had to bump it with my hand to get it to stop, then it free flowed for a only a second, then stopped. Now it doesn't free flow anymore, go figure. I will reposition the reg. so it is not facing up on my bc, and I will keep an eye on it from there. Thanks for all the advice, nick.
 
colsonn:
I just got back from the lds and they tuned the reg down for me, and no it is not user ajustable. I jumped in the pool and it began to rapidly free flow, even when I pulled it out of the water. I had to bump it with my hand to get it to stop, then it free flowed for a only a second, then stopped. Now it doesn't free flow anymore, go figure. I will reposition the reg. so it is not facing up on my bc, and I will keep an eye on it from there. Thanks for all the advice, nick.
Nick,

With respect to your initial question, you've answered it yourself.

When you plan gas consumption to select a bail-out, you assume you'd require so many minutes at max depth (to deal with whatever issues you were having), so many minutes on the ascent, so many minutes for a safety stop, etc. In other words, you're counting on having (for example) some 12 minutes of gas available at a consumption rate of 1.3 cfpm or whatever RMV you used. In other words, you don't have a lot of excess gas to screw around with. You're counting on having a known quantity of gas in the tank.

The reason why you charge your reg and then turn off the tank valve is to make sure you indeed do have that known quantity of gas in the tank should your world suddenly go to crap.

Assuming your reg is not free-flowing, (see other comments above,) if you look down and the pressure is low, simply re-charge the reg. No worries.

But to dive with the valve all the way on, because you're worried that your hose may allow water to back up in it, is to be penny wise and pound foolish. The goal is to ensure that you have a known quantity of gas in the tank. A freeflow out of your bailout pretty much compromises any safety benefit that it provided to begin with.

Hope this helps,

Doc
 
I believe that Doc has managed to sum it up.

It happens from time to time that me and the lads (Mark, you're included here) end up diving with a few cylinders of bail out and deco gas.

Each reg is charged prior to getting wet, and then turned off or slightly on (depending on preference...mine is slightly on for non deco gas. Deco gas is always switched off until needed).

This helps when one has to switch gas. You have to look at the reg and check the sticker tape round the hose and over the mouth piece with MOD markings, follow it to the first stage and do a double check....then and only then open up and switch. Then switch your computer...afterwards.

Merry Christmas

boogey
 
I just bought a new octo for a special dive i was doing and guess what............jumped in and it free flowed. Have used a cover to try and prevent it from boat entry but I want it fixed.

OK, I'm game...........how does one increase the crack pressure on the 2nd stage......

Lar
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom