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Fogging DC600

Discussion in 'SeaLife' started by dogenia, May 14, 2008.

  1. dogenia

    dogenia Photographer

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Curacao, Netherlands Antilles, Dutch Caribbean
    241
    0
    On some occassions I have had the DC600 fog up on me at depth. It happens after shooting up to I'd say about 100+ shots and ascending to the safety stop. I do have a moister muncher inside and after opening the camera to change batteries and cleaning, on the second dive there is no more fog.

    My typical bottom times are about 40 - 45 minutes and depth is from 22 meters up, air temp is in the 90's while bottom temp is around 78F.

    Anybody care to tackle this one?
     
  2. BHB ScubaTroll

    BHB ScubaTroll Solo Diver

    # of Dives:
    Location: Florida Diver
    6,642
    489
    Hmmm, I've used the same profile in Bonaire, and not had that problem... I hope someone has for my future reference.

    Does it happen with new/fresh munchers or after a few dives? I get 5-6 dives from a muncher before it is pink... I turn the oven on to 210 and 20 minutes later I have fresh munchers again (minus a couple that expanded)
     
  3. dogenia

    dogenia Photographer

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Curacao, Netherlands Antilles, Dutch Caribbean
    241
    0
    Oops mine is pink. Doooooooooooooh

    Thanks
     
  4. DandyDon

    DandyDon Old men ought to be explorers ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: One kilometer high on the Texas Central Plains
    50,664
    5,688
    Yep, I had it happen to me when I got excited and kept shooting as fast as the strobe would recharge. If you're shooting 100 pics on one dive, I'd say you're shooting about as fast. I discussed this at length with the Sealife technician, then my Tech Instructor - finding two problems I think...

    (1) Rapid firing of the camera means rapid firing of the flash even tho the strobe is working as a slave to the camera flash. The inside of the housing and the camera warm up rather rapidly and the water vapor condenses on the coolest part of the housing: the lens.

    (2) On the two days it happened, I did not have a camera bucket which is bad for a few reasons. I think that presoaking it would reduce the likelihood of the problem. Need to aftersoak it anyway to prevent precipitation of minerals on the lens. Next trip I am carrying a collapsible six-pack cooler for my own camera soaking - soaking it in seawater if necessary until I get back to a freshwater source.
    What is pink? My moisture munchers are blue when fresh, pink when used up.
     
  5. Former Sealife Employee

    Former Sealife Employee Contributor

    # of Dives: 0 - 24
    Location: New Jersey
    181
    0
    Tips to prevent fogging [of the housing inside lens port]:

    Humid air or water drops trapped inside the housing may condense on the cooler glass lens port and cause fogging. Here is the best way to prevent fogging:

    1. Keep the inside of the housing perfectly dry. Even one water drop can evaporate inside the housing and condense (fog) on the lens port.
    2. Load the camera into the housing in a dry environment, like an air-conditioned room. This will help to avoid trapping humid air inside the housing.
    3. Apply a small amount of anti-fog solution to the inside surface of the housing lens port. Apply the anti-fog solution once a day in a dry room. Your local dive shop can recommend a good quality anti-fog solution.
    4. Use a fresh Moisture Muncher desiccant capsule (item # SL911) inside the housing.
     
  6. dogenia

    dogenia Photographer

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Curacao, Netherlands Antilles, Dutch Caribbean
    241
    0
    Denise your my hero.

    Don
     

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