Fixing Your Scratched Dome Port

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Mo2vation

Relocated to South Florida....
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I just don't log dives
About halfway through my Kona trip a couple of weeks ago, I noticed my Ikelite Dome Ports were getting pretty worked. I dive the D70 rig. I don't get it. :banghead: I keep the cover on until I get under water and then pocket the cover. I cover it up on the ascent. I'm pretty much a nut about it. So I couldn't figure it out.

Then I noticed (on about dive 15 of the week) - when I'm clipping off the rig (when there's nothing to shoot, on a long swim, etc.) it would sometimes swing around and the domes would rub against the very tough webbing (I dive a BP) of my shoulder strap, waist band and was probably hitting the buckle.

Bottom line - I was trashing my domes. You could actually see the scratches in the pictures (especially on the 10.5 where I'm focusing on the dome its self.) :icon10: So I get home and hit wet pixel - I'm thinking there must be a fix for it. I find this thread. Genius.

I go to the recommended site, and I pick up this kit. It arrived yesterday. Last night I dive into the 12-24 Dome (I use this one less than my 10.5 dome) and I figger if I kill the thing, its a cheap replacement (like $150-something to replace it.)

The kit is a 10 level polishing kit. 9 fabric sand papers (1500 - 12000 grit) and a finishing polish. Then an anti-static cream thingy.

I didn't think the scratches were severe enough to go to Home Depot and pick up some 300 or 400 wet paper - so I started with the enclosed 1500. After the first couple of fabrics, I basically had a diffuser. But I could see the kit working - taking off just enough of the material to get to the deep scratches. By the time I got to the 6th level, it started to come together and I could actually see through the thing again. When I reached the 12000 grit, it was looking not just better, but almost NEW again. I'm serious - a 30 to 35 minute investment and my dome was fixed.

A little water with dish-soap in a spray bottle, a little sanding, a little buffing and they're all better. This is so liberating. I mean, now that I found the cause of the problem, and have now secured a way to repair the domes, its a complete relief.

I can't recommend this kit enough for Ikelite-type domes. The flat port was a little more challenging, as I can't get off the port with each successive pass - so I just used the finishing polish. Made a huge improvement, but its not in NEW condition like the domes.

I'm pretty fired up. Now that these things look great again, I can eBay these two domes and step up to Ike's new 8" mega dome. :D

Micro-Mesh rocks.

---
Ken
 
Mo2vation:
a 30 to 35 minute investment and my dome was fixed. Ken

Kind of. Remember that at these tolerances (talking about the wide angle effect resulting in extremem depth of field) you have (minutely) changed the shape of the lens.

It may be pretty darned good, but it will never work the same way as before. For some (maybe many) it will be fine, but at that point in the dome port, there will be an aberration.
 
RoatanMan:
Kind of. Remember that at these tolerances (talking about the wide angle effect resulting in extremem depth of field) you have (minutely) changed the shape of the lens.

It may be pretty darned good, but it will never work the same way as before. For some (maybe many) it will be fine, but at that point in the dome port, there will be an aberration.

But I'm OK with it. I'm not shooting for anyone else but me. If there is a fish wrinkle in one of my JPG's in the top 1/20th of the picture that I need a magnifying glass to see, I'm OK with that.

I'm not many of you. My stuff still sucks. I'm confident I will never see any difference in my very pedestrian shots. It will only be an improvement. By the time I get to a place where I could remotely detect this aberration, I'll be on to a new rig.

Appreciate the point, but I'm still fired up. :10:

Micro-mesh rocks.

---
Ken
 
Mo2vation:
But I'm OK with it. Ken

If you think you're a beginner, you haven't seen my blurry stuff. Makes me want to sell my Calypso every time I get the slides developed.

That stuff works pretty well on lightly scratched eyeglasses.
 
Thanks, Ken.

Hmmm... does this work on acrylic ports as well as glass? I've got a flat port on my camcorder housing and it does get scratched badly enough to need replacement about every 12-18 months.
 
hhmmm. I was told that scratches on the outside are not important because the water fills them. Is this not true?
 
catherine96821:
hhmmm. I was told that scratches on the outside are not important because the water fills them. Is this not true?


DrB: The instructions says yes, it will work. On a flat port, the key is you need to be able to sand over the edge. If there is no lip, you're in great shape. If there's a lip, I don't recommend this kit.

Cath: Water will fill up small scratches, etc. The larger ones I had were actually showing up ion the pictures, especially with the 10.5 where I'm focused on the port its self. There were light flares / lines in the pics. Not good.

The stuff rocks. The polish cleaned my iPod screen, too!

---
Ken
 
Will it work for my plastic computer guard too? That thing always gets scratched and it wasn't cheap to replace.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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