Fix S95 with Ikelite AF-35?

[dash82]

Hi Guys,

So I bought a S95 the other day, and i am waiting for the FIX S95 housing and UWL-04 dome port to to be in stock.

My question is, with my current setup, I have ikelite AF-35 strobe. Would this work fine with my new Fix S95 setup?

The plan is to upgrade to some Inon S2000 strobes at a later stage, but for the moment, i am hoping the AF-35 will do the job.

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated.

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

What is your current setup?

The AF-35 is Ike's "toy strobe."

An S95 in a Fix s95 housing with a UWL-04 dome "lens" is hardly a toy.

Without the dome lens, a toy strobe is better than the internal flash, for many shots.

 

[dhaas]

Dash82,

Your AF35 will do fine. It is hardly a "toy" strobe.

Do a search here and look at photos I have taken with them. Also on Ikelite's web gallery of AF35 shooters.

INON lovers tell you Ikelite's junk, Ikelite lovers say INON isn't worth the money.

It's all just personal opinion

Pictures of those who've used it tell the real story.

I'll stack mine up against anyone shooting other gear......Not being a smart ass, just tired of people talking bad about a decent product.

Two is better but one will serve you fine until you feel the need to spend more $$$$.

dhaas
David Haas Underwater Photography

 

[chris196]

The same thing used to happen when I had a sealife strobe. It was considered "junk". But, it did it's primary job which is to put out light. And when I sold it, it was still going strong. I now have an inon and it's a better strobe, but it also cost twice as much.

I'm sure your AF35 will be fine.

There is one slight problem I could see.
Doesn't the AF35 "look" at the flash of the camera, and use that as the trigger. If your camera is in an OEM clear poly case, then no problem. But in the FIX will enough light escape to trigger the AF35?

 

[diver 85]

Dash, you really don't have anything to lose---use it & if it works(ie you like it), keep going with it...If not, spend a few bucks for the S2000(s)...

My bigger question is what camera are you presently shooting(the AF-35 with)...?

 

[slowhands]

...I'm sure your AF35 will be fine.

There is one slight problem I could see. Doesn't the AF35 "look" at the flash of the camera, and use that as the trigger. If your camera is in an OEM clear poly case, then no problem. But in the FIX will enough light escape to trigger the AF35?

All you have to do is duct tape the sensor module in front of the Fix housing strobe port. It may stick out 5-6 inches, but who cares? Think of it as found art. You're recycling an obsolete piece of electronics instead of putting it in landfill.

Think positive, don't listen to all these gadget loving spendthrift materialistic yuppie technomaniacs.

 

[Nemrod]

Hi Guys,

So I bought a S95 the other day, and i am waiting for the FIX S95 housing and UWL-04 dome port to to be in stock.

My question is, with my current setup, I have ikelite AF-35 strobe. Would this work fine with my new Fix S95 setup?

The plan is to upgrade to some Inon S2000 strobes at a later stage, but for the moment, i am hoping the AF-35 will do the job.

Your expertise would be greatly appreciated.

I see no reason why the AF35 should not work. The AF35 has a large sensor mechanism that is pointed at the camera flash so that it can see the strobe to sync on. I do not know how sensitive this sensor is but I bet it would be possible to make a small reflector to mount on the FIX window and aim it to the AF35 sensor. This would still allow you to block the majority of the on-camera strobe flash from going forward and causing problems.

If you are using an Ikelite tray you may have to make an adapter similar to this one:

The FIX and Recsea housings do not have the same fix bolt spacing thus requiring an adapter to join the two, FIX/Recsea and Ikelite tray. The top photo shows the adapter in place and a second one displayed below the tray face up.

N

 

[MauiScubaSteve]

OK, very quickly cutting and pasting;

AF35

Specifications.
Energy Rating ...... 35 watt-seconds
Coverage Angle ...... 70° (80° with diffuser)
Firing Modes ...... Auto (TTL), Full (Manual), 5 Fractional powers
Guide # feet (ISO 100) ......
meters (ISO 100) ...... 28 surface (16 underwater)
9 surface (5 underwater)
Color Temp ...... 5700K
Recycle Time ....... 2.5 sec

DS51

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s
Energy Rating ....... 50 wat-sec
Recycle Time ....... 3.5 sec
Angle of Coverage ....... 70 degrees
....... 80 degrees with diffuser
Guide # (ISO 100) feet ....... 56 surface - 28 underwater
Guide # meters ....... 17 surface - 9 underwater
Color Temperature ....... 5700 degrees Kelvin

DS160

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s
Energy Rating ....... 160 wat-sec
Recycle Time ....... 1.5 sec
Angle of Coverage ....... 90 degrees
....... 100 degrees with diffuser
Guide # (ISO 100) feet ....... 76 surface - 38 underwater
Guide # meters ....... 24 surface - 12 underwater
Color Temperature ....... 4800 degrees Kelvin

For a UWL-04 dome "lens" the AF35 and DS51 have toy like angle of coverage number (as well as a number of other toy like numbers). That is why I typed that...

"Without the dome lens, a toy strobe is better than the internal flash, for many shots."

Some Ike lovers only talk about Ike strobes.

 

[dhaas]

OK, I'll play

Strobe power is so over rated in today's digital world.....

Even the cheapest P&S (point and shoot) digital camera with only a program mode will open between f2.8 - 4 or on shots in tropical conditions AUTOMATICALLY at ISO 100 - 200.

This means your strobe ain't gotta' be very powerful IF, and that's a HUGE IF people don't try and back up and shoot farther than a real 4' away.

4' strobe to subject distance means your flash will travel through 8' of water after bouncing off your subject before it reachs the camera sensor.

Even that's too far away IMHO. People should get close, add a wide angle if they want more in their frame and shoot more pics......

I have taken photos of people on trips (yes, Ikelite customers) who SWEAR they're shooting from 2' away when they're really about 4' or more.....

I sell all three Ikelite strobes.

People buy the DS160 for warmer color temp, faster recycle time (the trade off of bigger, heavier and more expensive) and beam angle coverage.

People buy the DS51 or AF35 for lightweight and automatic features and lower cost.

The DS51 is within a stop or so of the DS160 but has a narrower beam and 5700 K color temp.

The AF35 a bit less power, same coverage and color as the DS51.

Most people have no friggin' idea where their strobe is aimed anyway so they'll use POWER and beam angle as a crutch.......

Not saying it doesn't help folks get good pics. It's just that POWER, Beam angle and whatever else doesn't dictate if a strobe is a toy or decent flash

My point was not to start a brand war, just give the OP some real world advice.

He could tape a piece of white foam in a "V" to bounce the flash from his forthcoming FIX housing flash window.

The AF35 sensor will work AUTOMATICALLY versus all this BS about setting everything manually just because you can on a S90 or S95. I know since I've shot one for a few thousand frames underwater with a Canon S90.

Use Av mode, f4 - 5.6 , TTL flash selected in menu, Solid Lightning Bolt ON. ISO of 100 if bright, maybe 200 if early in day or late afternoon.

Back dial of AF35 on AUTO, side dial start at say 6. Going to 10 is more flash. Dialing down to 1 is less flash.

That's it.......

Please go back and read posts detailing how to fly an INON Z240.......It's like a space shuttle

Not sure if S2000 or other Sea and Seam models are more or less complex......

As I said before, put pics up with color, in focus and the frame filled and then the gear talk can commence with proof

Photos below shot with Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye lens on a digital SLR lit with ONE Ikelite DS51 strobe.

Then again, I know how much 80 degrees of flash covers in a photograph........

YMMV

dhaas
David Haas Underwater Photography

 

[Nemrod]

OK, I'll play

Strobe power is so over rated in today's digital world.....

Amen brother!!!!!

4' strobe to subject distance means your flash will travel through 8' of water after bouncing off your subject before it reaches[ the camera sensor.

Even that's too far away IMHO. People should get close, add a wide angle if they want more in their frame and shoot more pics......

I have taken photos of people on trips (yes, Ikelite customers) who SWEAR they're shooting from 2' away when they're really about 4' or more.....

Again, amen, doubling the strobe power does not double the effective distance, not even close and adding a second strobe only produces wider coverage, not greater reach.

The AF35 sensor will work AUTOMATICALLY versus all this BS about setting everything manually just because you can on a S90 or S95. I know since I've shot one for a few thousand frames underwater with a Canon S90.

You are on a roll, as usual. Manual has it's place but the Av Automatic mode is wonderfully useful and fast to use and easy.

N