OP
First try on Lightroom
- Thread starter David Novo
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Another good question.
I do not find ETTR useful underwater.....I rarely have the time to play too much with histograms...and using a strobe it is too easy to burn out the highlights. That is, ETTR is fine but if you go the right too much you've lost it all. It is, I think, a dangerous move. I'm much more concerned underwater with burning out highlights than I am with getting detail in the shadows.
As a personal choice, I also prefer pix that are slightly underexposed because the colors saturate better.
I find myself increasingly ignoring much of the advice for non-underwater pix....it is such a different medium to work in, with such different subjects and backgrounds, a lot of the usual advice and especially auto-settings on cameras are just not helpful. @Chris Ross may disagree, and he is certainly more experienced than I, but that's my experience.
OP
David Novo
Contributor
Tried to put together all the advice you have been kindly sharing in the example below (before/after):
What do you think?
What do you think?
OP
David Novo
Contributor
Does anybody know how to correct the reflex of anemonefish bands (please see below)?
i don't understand the source of these bands. They almost appear to be double-exposures. What kind of lighting are you using?
OP
David Novo
Contributor
Are you getting a second image from ambient light, or a pre-flash, or something?
OP
David Novo
Contributor
Chris Ross
Contributor
What is your settings for the anemone fish? (shutter/aperture/ISO). I would rather see that before guessing what is going on. I don't believe it is correctable.
I would forget about ETTR at least for the moment and try to get a good exposure, you've got enough going on UW as it is and while there are often noise benefits for the most part they are fairly minimal. Whether or not recovery of highlights is possible I think depends a bit on your camera and raw converter. With my Olympus EM-1 occasionally I'll not dial the strobes back when going in very close and get a very over exposed image and find I'm correcting 2-3 stops and the image looks fine after that - but there are limits. I see you are using a TG-6, with that little sensor you do not want to underexpose as the noise will come up quite quickly in post corrections. You do need to be aware of highly reflective subjects or parts of subjects which are quite common underwater and can result in blown highlights.
As to how far to move your exposure and other adjustments - it depends on your starting point. I would suggest forgetting about absolute numbers and just adjust to get a good exposure then critically examine the result - of you like it all is good, if not it's a reject.
I would forget about ETTR at least for the moment and try to get a good exposure, you've got enough going on UW as it is and while there are often noise benefits for the most part they are fairly minimal. Whether or not recovery of highlights is possible I think depends a bit on your camera and raw converter. With my Olympus EM-1 occasionally I'll not dial the strobes back when going in very close and get a very over exposed image and find I'm correcting 2-3 stops and the image looks fine after that - but there are limits. I see you are using a TG-6, with that little sensor you do not want to underexpose as the noise will come up quite quickly in post corrections. You do need to be aware of highly reflective subjects or parts of subjects which are quite common underwater and can result in blown highlights.
As to how far to move your exposure and other adjustments - it depends on your starting point. I would suggest forgetting about absolute numbers and just adjust to get a good exposure then critically examine the result - of you like it all is good, if not it's a reject.
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