First trip to Bonaire

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For me - PBD is chronic and uncurable - Here's more....

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The finest dive sites on Earth can be found by driving along the coast road and stopping at yellow rocks marked with the site name. Bonaire diving offers total freedom - your own schedule - your own desires - your own experience or limitation.

We seldom dive Nitrox there because of the depth limits of the gas and because multi-level diving along the sloping reef gives us all the bottom time that we need or want. Every once in a while there is a time when we want to extend that bottom time out to all we can get - every precious minute to savor the magnificent beauty of the reef. Such a site is Alice in Wonderland.

We left shore on a heading directly out to sea and passed the innermost reef and kept swimming until we reached the second reef - sort of like a mountain rising from the ocean floor. We turned right and finned lazily along the outside edge at about 90 feet - drifting past lush and healthy corals, huge schools of baitfish and the Jacks that follow them. They put on quite a show for us. We gazed into the opean ocean - trying to see that turtle, eagle ray or shark that might wonder by. At half our gas supply we turned toward shore and crossed the sand flat to the inner reef and turned right again - headed back to our exit point. Queen Conch meticiously worked the sand - filtering out food particles - the garden eels doing their dance. Then - out of nowhere came the six-foot Green Moray! He wasn't afraid of us - why should he be? Just laid there like a ribbon of silk - watching us - wondering what sort of creature we were - wondering if we were good to eat.

Gas supply critical - we recognized our original place of entry and turned left - reluctantly headed for shore. The only thing making it bearable is the knowledge that we have more dives to make before day is done.

Total dive time - 51 minutes - Visibility 200+ feet - water temp 82 degrees. Pure and simple sensory overload.
 
Next to sunrise, sunset is one of nature’s precious gifts – it marks the end of a day – time for rest, relaxation, reflection – a promise that sunrise will soon follow with the chance for another adventure. Sunset also marks a time of socialization – folks gather and share their experiences – bond new friendships or strengthen old ones. Eyes glued upon the big orange ball – hoping madly for a glimpse at the infamous but elusive green flash. We keep searching sunset after sunset – I’ve seen it three times in my life so I know it exists – but if it were common, it wouldn’t be special.

This particular afternoon we decided to do a sunset dive – we’ve done lots of sunrise dives and have seen the lights come on, but tonight we wanted to see the lights go off. Folks just stared and asked us why but there is no answer – why is relative – we don’t need no stinking why – just another adventure – another “Yes, I’ve done that!”

About thirty minutes before sunset we made that run down the pier and did a carrier take-off – again landing not so gracefully – slipping on fins – checking the concrete block for the octopus couple and then heading off to explore the reef.

We swam along at a slow and relaxed pace – not too deep – not too shallow. Darkness came quickly underwater – light’s critical angle lost – then something caught our eye and we stared at the surface in disbelief. From 30 feet there it was - the brilliant orange ball – that center of our universe – source of light and life itself – slowly sinking toward the horizon. We sat silently on the sand – watching until it disappeared – then watching some more.
 
There are special places on Earth and within those special places there are special places.

You did 6 dives today - beginning at 5 am and continuing around to 8 pm. You took a few minutes for dinner - tonight you didn't want anything heavy so you feasted in the room on leftover bread and cheese from breakfast. After a magnificant dive at Karpata your lunch was really special - Bonairian meatballs at the Rose Inn in Rincon prepared by Malfina herself.

You sit and wonder what remains - what could possibly top this day - all things good have happened and it just seems that life can't get any better. You are excited when your partner asks "Are you up for an adventure?" You reply, "If there is an adventure left, show it to me!"

You grab a few Amstel Bright and throw them in the cooler - your little transistor radio - and a blanket. Your friend drives - after all - you don't know where you're going - what could possibly be in store this late in the evening? You leave the hotel, turn right and go almost all the way around the circle - are we headed back to Rincon? Then a left turn up through a residential area - the road gets steeper - the little rice burner engine strains - you reach the top and there it is. The tall yellow cross - the observation platform - island lights below - stars above - you strain hard to tell where the sky ends and the land begins. You are 123 meters above the sea you love - high atop Seru Largu.

You lie on the blanket - a Venezuelan radio station croons out a Spanish love song - the magic of the Amstel Bright warms your insides and softens your mood while the warm breeze rustles your hair. Somewhere in the distance a dog barks, a goat bleats, and a donkey sings his familiar song - all glad to have lived another day in paradise. You see shadows and realize they are bats foraging in the dim light. Your body feels heavy - relaxed.

Just you and your closest friend - your special friend - you think it can't get any better but suddenly the sky explodes - a meteor shower! Your personal fireworks show - You stand - reach high - and touch the sky!

Better go back and hit the sack now - you dive at five.........
 
I am really beginng to hate you Tom. :)
Oh well, relief is on the way, just sent an email to the travel agent.
 

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