Uncle Ricky and I have long thought that the two best times to be in the ocean are dawn and dusk. Here the night creatures are coming out for their first meal and the day creatures are still trying to get their last before retiring for the night or vice versa. What a magnificent show - shift change - got to love it!
The alarm clock wakes us at 5 am - time to get from the room to the dock - open the gear locker with sleepy eyes and assemble our stuff. By the time we hit the water - make that aircraft carrier run down the dock at Buddy's - fly off the edge and land not so gracefully in the water - slip on fins and start the dive - it's 30 minutes before sunrise.
You all know what I feel about sunrise - Mother Nature's way of signaling the start of a new day - another chance for a new adventure - freshness - The best gift God has to offer. At mine and Uncle Ricky's age - we know that we're still alive because we couldn't hurt that bad if we weren't - funny thing - being in the water relieves all those aged joints of their burden - weightlessness - what a marvelous feeling!
We start the dive in total darkness - left toward Capt Don's and the tug that lays upside down on the reef - hoping to see Mister Rogers the green moray. Wishing to see most anything of interest - then remembering that all things in the ocean are of interest.
Eels out roaming the reef - basket stars - parrotfish in their cocoons - noctaluca - octopi - the occasional but elusive squid - Oh man - I want to be there now!
Anyway - back to the subject of dawn dives - you're swimming along - still dark where you are - shining your light - wanting to see something good and suddenly you look up. Weird - it's dark where you are but the water's surface is brightly lit. Some sort of twilight zone. Then it happens - you reach the tug and the sun reaches critical angle at the same time - lights come on - your night dive turns to day. The night creatures are elated - they made it without becoming someone's dinner - the day creatures feel hunger - the cycle starts over - few things in the ocean die of old age.
The hardest part of a dawn dive is ending it - got to climb those steps - re-enter gravity - give it all up - you resist with all your might - then remember you have five dives to go before day is done - got to hurry - got to get them all in - got to live another day in paradise - wondering what the poor people are doing - not really caring.
The dawn dive is done and you're climbing the steps - reluctantly leaving the water. You keep your mask and regulator in place because you know that when the seal is broken, you're again breathing air at only one atmosphere - the smell of cooking bacon will permeate your nostrils. Like Lorelei - sitting on the rocks and combing her golden hair - bacon cooking brings out the primal hunger in the strongest willed. What the heck - crash on those rocks? Just when you think that life is at its best - nothing can be better - you remember that life can be better.
You hastily put away your gear - dry off - grab the keys and head for Kralendijk - around the circle and down Kaya Gobernador you cruise. Waiting patiently as you drive - little traffic on the road at this hour but the one car you get behind seems painfully slow. You roll down the windows trying to get an advance sensory experience - around the final curve - the giant Cultamara's Market building in sight the smell hits - like a baseball bat across your temples - fresh baking bread in the morning air - the smell is everywhere - inescapable - your stomach talks - FEED ME NOW!
You rush into the bakery - loaves on the shelf still warm from the oven - croissants dripping with butter - pastries of all sorts. You rush to the counter way in back - The girl behind the counter is from Venezuela so you instinctively shout "Por favor, puede de dame un kilo de queso?" She smiles and replies "Si claro, tengo Gouda fresca. Esta bien?" Your only answer is "Oh yes! Uhh Si esta bien!" This morning she pulls out a wheel about two feet across and lops off a hunk of cheese - the first cut - sort of like the first draw from a keg of Pils. You grab the neatly wrapped cheese and the warm bag of croissants and head back to Buddy's. The smell from the package causes you to roll up the windows - trapping every morsel of aroma - anticipation burning in your soul.
You run into your room and your partner has the Blue Mountain coffee that you picked up in Montego Bay perking on the stove - one more smell to whet that appetite. You sit on the patio - eating - sipping coffee - and feeling the tropical breeze as it gently caresses your hair. Talking about yesterday - recapping this morning - planning today.
After all - the day is still young - adventure still waits - see, I told you - life does get better.