First Stage: Keeping it Dry?

[no_surrender]

Hello all, new diver here. I have a few questions about keeping the first stage dry. My wife and I have two different types of first stages. Wife's is whatever comes with the Aqua Lung Core second stage, which I believe is the self sealing type. Shouldn't be an issue if soaked without cap in fresh water after a salt water dive, correct? This is because the valve is closed, right? We learned in class to always dry the cap with tank pressure after the last dive, but it's not necessary to do this between dives while changing tanks. Why is it so important to keep the cap perfectly dry after the second dive, but not necessary after the first?

A few weeks after buying her set-up, I bought a Scuba Pro Mk25 Evo with S600. This first stage isn't "self-sealing" like the Aqua Lung my wife has. How important is it to dry the cap between dives on this reg set-up? I've heard just one drop of sea water in the first stage can ruin it. However, is it really that critical to ensure it is bone dry even while changing tanks? Everything is wet to include my hands while changing tanks so what's the best practice to do this without damaging our equipment?

Another issue we ran into while diving a couple days ago is that it was raining after the first dive and while we were changing tanks. Again, how could have we prevented any water from getting on the first stage while it was raining? It's not like divers just stop because it's raining, right?

Lastly, what's the best way to care for the regulator? Here's what I've been doing...please point out anything that I've been doing that might damage our equipment. After diving, use the tank pressure to air dry the first stage cap, put it on and secure it with the yoke handle. Pull back hose protectors. Submerge the entire reg set-up in fresh water for at least 20 minutes to dissolve salt. Swish it around then hang it up and spray off with water hose. Hang to dry. Secure the hose protectors against the first stage again.

Thanks in advance for all replies!

Kevin

 

[RyanT]

Submerge the entire reg set-up in fresh water for at least 20 minutes to dissolve salt.

I usually soak my regs overnight. The other thing that will be important is to get a little water movement around the reg as you're soaking it. An aquarium pump in the soak tub is helpful or at a minimum, swish the water around several times during the soak. Also, I like to give my regs a quick freshwater rinse prior to the soak, I figure it just helps remove a little more salt before it actually goes in to soak.

Yes, you want to keep the inside of your 1st stage dry, but don't stress over it. I'm assuming you have a yoke regulator. These caps are usually pretty easy to just dry with a towel or something. If it's raining on the dive boat, just lean over and shield the reg when you swap tanks...no big deal.

 

[RyanT]

Also, consider losing the hose protectors altogether. They aren't really protecting anything and just provide an additional place for salt residue to hide.

 

[fisherdvm]

I do not trust hard plastic caps to keep first stages dry. I replace them with rubber ones. Even then, I do not like to submerge them more than an inch or so underwater. Especially if you got an air integrated sensor. A little salt on them pressure sensor can mean bye bye $300 AI module or AI computer. Second stages can be forgiving as they dry out quickly, but HP hoses has no free flowing dry air through them - so it can rust your PG or your AI computer.

 

[TMHeimer]

I'll just say what I've done for 13 years.
I usually dive shallow, so use one tank for 2 dives.
When I do switch out tanks I do nothing to dry the cap or 1st stage opening.
After the dive(s) I use my T shirt to dry the inside of the cap and 1st stage opening.
Then I use tank air to further dry the inside of the cap, being careful not to let tank air blow into 1st stage (which of course may force in salt water).
Then wipe both with T shirt again.
Rinsing afterwards I don't soak, though it's probably good to do so. I just use the hose (shower/bathtub taps when no hose) and rinse thoroughly. I do pull back the hose protectors, rinse hose & inside the protectors, and slide back up, as you do.
I've been using the same reg for 13 years (bought it used), and get it serviced every 2 years, sometimes more often.
It's still going. Replaced one hose but that was a rupture caused by a freak accident gearing up.

 

[no_surrender]

I usually soak my regs overnight. The other thing that will be important is to get a little water movement around the reg as you're soaking it. An aquarium pump in the soak tub is helpful or at a minimum, swish the water around several times during the soak. Also, I like to give my regs a quick freshwater rinse prior to the soak, I figure it just helps remove a little more salt before it actually goes in to soak.

Yes, you want to keep the inside of your 1st stage dry, but don't stress over it. I'm assuming you have a yoke regulator. These caps are usually pretty easy to just dry with a towel or something. If it's raining on the dive boat, just lean over and shield the reg when you swap tanks...no big deal.

Thanks, RyanT. This is what I had in mind, but conflicts with what others recommend, which is why I'm here.

I do not trust hard plastic caps to keep first stages dry. I replace them with rubber ones. Even then, I do not like to submerge them more than an inch or so underwater. Especially if you got an air integrated sensor. A little salt on them pressure sensor can mean bye bye $300 AI module or AI computer. Second stages can be forgiving as they dry out quickly, but HP hoses has no free flowing dry air through them - so it can rust your PG or your AI computer.

What is an AI module? Both of our set-ups have a Suunto transmitter connected to a 6" HP hose. We both also have a brass and glass single SPG as a backup. I'm not sure I understand the rationale to keep the hoses limited to one inch of water. The fresh water basins at the dive stores here are all about 2.5 feet deep for soaking gear.

I'll just say what I've done for 13 years.
I usually dive shallow, so use one tank for 2 dives.
When I do switch out tanks I do nothing to dry the cap or 1st stage opening.
After the dive(s) I use my T shirt to dry the inside of the cap and 1st stage opening.
Then I use tank air to further dry the inside of the cap, being careful not to let tank air blow into 1st stage (which of course may force in salt water).
Then wipe both with T shirt again.
Rinsing afterwards I don't soak, though it's probably good to do so. I just use the hose (shower/bathtub taps when no hose) and rinse thoroughly. I do pull back the hose protectors, rinse hose & inside the protectors, and slide back up, as you do.
I've been using the same reg for 13 years (bought it used), and get it serviced every 2 years, sometimes more often.
It's still going. Replaced one hose but that was a rupture caused by a freak accident gearing up.

That's awesome you've been able to get 13 years out of your reg! Thanks for the tip with using a t-shirt. I feel as though I'm overthinking this. Surely this expensive equipment isn't THAT susceptible to water damage?

 

[fisherdvm]

Thanks, RyanT. This is what I had in mind, but conflicts with what others recommend, which is why I'm here.


What is an AI module? Both of our set-ups have a Suunto transmitter connected to a 6" HP hose. We both also have a brass and glass single SPG as a backup. I'm not sure I understand the rationale to keep the hoses limited to one inch of water. The fresh water basins at the dive stores here are all about 2.5 feet deep for soaking gear.


That's awesome you've been able to get 13 years out of your reg! Thanks for the tip with using a t-shirt. I feel as though I'm overthinking this. Surely this expensive equipment isn't THAT susceptible to water damage?

Pressure is related to depth as you know in ow training. 2 inches of water exert 1/10 of the pressure of 24 inches. Less likelyhood of water entry through a cap on the first stage. Or if you were like me... accidentally not putting the cap on at all. I got a little water in the HP hose. Despite taking it home, disconnecting all the hoses and rinsing with distilled water... still has issue with my air integrated computer! Now using it only as a backup ad I do not trust it as much. Even though it was connected with a 20 in or so hp hose, gravity pulled that tiny drop of water right to the computer. An AI transmitter is directly connected to the first stage - thus more likely to be exposed to water. An AI computer through a hose - which has only a tiny pin sized hole in the first stage - thus making it very hard for water to enter. But it DID in my case!!! Less pressure- less likely water would enter the HP hose through the pinhole in the first stage. Think physics!! Regulator setup sits in the sun on the boat. It warms up to 100 degree or more as the hose and modules are black. Air in HP and LP hoses warm up. Air pressure increases inside and leaks out when you disconnect from the tank. You cap it, the dunk it in a tub of freshly ran water at 75 degrees. The air in the hoses creates a vacumn and suck water inside! It would not be a bad idea to soak only the hoses and regs with the first stage outside the water first. Then rinse it manually last.

 

[fisherdvm]

I dropped my iphone 6 in my cat water dish with 1.5 inch of water. It survived. 3 inch toilet water? Maybe. 12 inches? Unlikely.

 

[no_surrender]

Pressure is related to depth as you know in ow training. 2 inches of water exert 1/10 of the pressure of 24 inches. Less likelyhood of water entry through a cap on the first stage. Or if you were like me... accidentally not putting the cap on at all. I got a little water in the HP hose. Despite taking it home, disconnecting all the hoses and rinsing with distilled water... still has issue with my air integrated computer! Now using it only as a backup ad I do not trust it as much. Even though it was connected with a 20 in or so hp hose, gravity pulled that tiny drop of water right to the computer. An AI transmitter is directly connected to the first stage - thus more likely to be exposed to water. An AI computer through a hose - which has only a tiny pin sized hole in the first stage - thus making it very hard for water to enter. But it DID in my case!!! Less pressure- less likely water would enter the HP hose through the pinhole in the first stage. Think physics!! Regulator setup sits in the sun on the boat. It warms up to 100 degree or more as the hose and modules are black. Air in HP and LP hoses warm up. Air pressure increases inside and leaks out when you disconnect from the tank. You cap it, the dunk it in a tub of freshly ran water at 75 degrees. The air in the hoses creates a vacumn and suck water inside! It would not be a bad idea to soak only the hoses and regs with the first stage outside the water first. Then rinse it manually last.

Interesting perspective, thank you. Perhaps I'll hang the first stage above the rubbermaid to allow the hoses and regulators to soak while I simply spray off the first stage. Thanks for the replies!

 

[Diving Dubai]

@no_surrender

With regards to your AL 1st stage that self seal. You can dunk it fully overnight without damage (I do and have done for 4 years/500 dives on it)

For other regs - A decent cap as I use Din I have screw caps, but wont' do more than immerse them s little and use a rag to wipe residue from them.

I use warm water for rinsing (because in the summer that all that comes out of the tap) I leave my regs in over night (I normally get back through my gear in water and sort myself out) However you still need to give things a wipe - I've soaked mine for a few hours, not wiped them and the mouth-piece still tastes salty.

So agitation and a wipe and soak is all that's required.

Regarding changing regs in the rain. The odd rain drop isn't' going to hurt it'll cause less damage than those people who use their tank to dry the first stage thus possibly blowing water inside