Yup, count me in for anti-program modes
They work sometimes but not all the time and it can be frustrating.
Any of your program modes underwater will try to do one of two things (or both): slow your shutter speed down which will give you blown out highlights, camera shake, light backgrounds etc and/or open your aperture way up which will make your photos look soft and also let too much light in to the photo. Some modes will also bump the ISO way up which will add "grain" (noise) to the image.
In those nice waters, try M mode in 1/125 and f4.5 to start. I always set my macro on, too. On the Canon's I have found that I must decrease my flash from full power down one notch or I fry stuff. sometimes I have to go down two notches. That should be a good base line.
Then underwater - assumes shots with internal flash - if you need the background darker or are blowing out highlights (showing as bright white or that weird glowing green) increase your shutter speed (1/160, 1/200 etc). If you are getting to your minimum focus distance on something with nice details like a sea star or nudibranch, I move my aperture up to f8. Remember to reset it back to 4.5 - 5.6 for most shots.
This way you are controlling what the camera does, but not overloading yourself with buttons to push! Most of your shots will likely be pretty right on once you set your baseline (test it at the beginning of the dive, adjust as necessary and use that as your baseline for that dive).
If you aren't using your internal flash, then set your white balance.
Great stuff and looking forward to seeing more!
