First Dive Computer

[Belzelbub]

Will it make sense to spend the $1500 for the MK2i to make it a complete package?

One thing I missed. $1500 won't get you the complete package with the MK2i. It will only get you the dive computer capable of adding air integration. The transmitter is extra. Prices for the bundle on Garmin's website are $1849 or $2049 for the Titanium version.

That may change things in your mind (or the Queen's). It would definitely change mine. I was actively looking at the Garmin computer when I was planning on upgrading a little while ago. At the time, it was only the MK1. Since AI was a must for me, I went another route. Then, when the Garmin MK2i and transmitter was introduced, I looked at it and would still have made the same choice. Proprietary transmitter and the much higher cost were the big kickers for me.

 

[brsnow]

Screen is easier to read underwater, more intuitive interface for diving, better features for diving (SurfGF), better compass, compatible with non-proprietary transmitters, company more responsive to and more focused on divers.

Everyone I've talked to or read posts from who chose the Descent over the Teric did it for its above-water features, not because they thought it was a superior dive computer.

There doesn't seem to be an exact Teric vs. Descent Mk2 thread here, but you can read this one over at reddit .

So you haven’t used both?

 

[Dody]

Levity is a good thing.
I do not know one person who owns an apple watch. I am sure some do.
Regardless they are not most people which is what I wrote.

More than half of the people I know wear an Apple watch. I did then stopped. Couldn’t stand changing my watch every year or two like my iPhone. The ones I wear are between 20 and 50 years old. Yes @Marie13 , I am a boomer.

 

[Dody]

Levity is a good thing.
I do not know one person who owns an apple watch. I am sure some do.
Regardless they are not most people which is what I wrote.

Duplicate

 

[rhwestfall]

I always wear a watch....

1988 (this one is from around 1992 when my first watch got stolen):
Used for diving with a Wheel (also had gotten a "fancy" digital bottom/SI timer that went on my TUSA console - oooh!).

Then replaced in the mid-90's with my first PDC.... never looked back...

present:

Something to keep time, and hold up to a splash when I leave it on.....

I have and use dive computers... wouldn't not... They are just to convenient, and account for "real-time" multi-level diving...

YMMV

 

[lowwall]

So you haven’t used both?

No. Played with a Teric and extensively researched both. There's plenty of firsthand info here if you want to search for it.

 

[brsnow]

No. Played with a Teric and extensively researched both. There's plenty of firsthand info here if you want to search for it.

I figured, giving advice online without actual experience is common.

 

[jmcgilroy]

Being a rude twit appears to be equally common.

 

[brsnow]

Being a rude twit appears to be equally common.

Not really, giving advice on things you never used is a big problem. Calling it out isn’t rude.

 

[Neilwood]

There are too many factors for anyone to suggest the perfect DC for anyone else - I would suggest that, in this day and age, a dive computer is almost a necessity. While you can dive with a bottom timer and a depth gauge, it is not the best way to dive now. Historical resistance to dive computers tended to spring from the fact(?) that was put out that they were unreliable. That most certainly now is not the case and I doubt anyone would seriously argue otherwise (especially for diving with in non deco limits). A dive computer will take into account all level fluctuations so can give you a longer NDL if you ascend early in the dive whereas the bottom timer/depth gauge combo means you HAVE to base it on your deepest point so ascending half way gives you absolutely no credit at all.

What can you look for in a DC?
1) Screen - LCD or LED/OLED? LCD tends to be black on grey (with a backlight most of the time) whereas LED/OLED tends to be colour and bright. LCD works great in clear water with decent light. LED/OLED works great in virtually all conditions. I dive in the UK which means conditions aren't always great with green water being common and I have seen dives where my DC at the time was an LCD and my buddies was LED. I could read his computer better at 5m (15ft) away that I could read mine at less than 3ft. Also LED/OLED is great at night.
2) Air integrated - AI is great now with most systems being very very robust. Initial systems tended to have issues with disconnections but in general these are a thing of the past.
3) Features - high end computers tend to have features you will probably not use such as additional gases, deco features, screen layout, compass etc. Decide if you want them
4) Size/ shape - wrist or console? I prefer wrist but some still like console based systems. Watch shaped or rectangular is another discussion. Some people prefer the expanse of screen that a large rectangle provides (I am one) but others like the convenience of one device doing multiple things such as a Garmin.
5) Battery type - are they integral, rechargeable or removable? I like that I can remove my DC battery and replace it anywhere with an off the shelf AA battery. Others like having rechargeable battery packs or integrated sealed batteries such as in the puck (LCD screen) type which last much much longer but tend to need a dive shop to replace them.
6) Cost - how much do you have and want to spend? I spent a lot for AI and OLED (Shearwater Petrel) but for me here it is worth it. If I was diving in clear water, maybe not so much.